Tips on Installing Mini-14 Folding Stock

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Confederate

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Tips on Installing (Butler Creek) Ruger Mini-14 Folding Stock

I just got a couple of Butler Creek folding stocks, one for a Ruger 10/22 and the other for a Mini-14. The 10/22 went just fine, but I've having a devil of a time installing the one for the Mini-14. Once I took the inserts out of the wooden stock and put it in the BC stock, I just can't seem to get anything to go into the stock but the inserts! I even used my trusty rubber mallet to no effect.

Butler Creek doesn't give very good instructions, nor is its web site any help at all. I assume I need both inserts from the wood stock, the one running beneath the barrel and the one containing the side panels.

Does anyone know of a good install site for this, or can you offer any tips? I like the quality of the stocks just fine, but I just can't get this Mini-14 put back together.

Thanks!
 
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I am working from memory here, but I think the metal insert that goes at the front of the stock goes in first (front part slides over the front of the stock, then push the back part down all the way). Then the other insert (the one that attaches with screws, under the action) goes in next; put the front part in first, and then raise the back part (squeezing the sides in as needed) until it pops in place. Make sure it is nice and flush with the sides, and that the screws are tightened properly (but don't strip them).

Also be absolutely sure that the screws aren't protruding from the back side of the insert, as this will cause the action to hang up on the screws when you try to insert it. If that happens, add a washer under the screw, each side. (The original stock should have come with lock washers, BTW--be sure to transfer those over.)

Once you have the inserts in, the front of the new stock slides into the gas block (make sure it's all the way in), then raise the back of the stock until it slides over the extensions on the bottom of the receiver. If you look closely, there are a couple of sort of rectangular extensions of the receiver that slide into channels in the stock, so make sure these are lined up right.

If the stock is on the tight side (which is good for accuracy, BTW), then you may have to spread the sides of the stock apart a little with your hands in order for the action to fit in there. It shouldn't require much force (and definitely not a mallet!) to get the action in there; if something is hanging up, set the action upside down on the carpet under good lighting, and try to put the stock on while looking through the opening in the bottom of the stock to see where the action is getting hung up.

Once the action is all the way in, put the trigger group in (with the trigger guard all the way open, and the safety should be on). Once the trigger group is in, squeeze the top rear of the receiver and the bottom rear of the trigger group together with one hand (to squeeze everything into the stock like it should be), and use the other hand to close and lock the trigger guard.

BTW, you'll love the stock. I had a Butler Creek on my mini and loved it.

gallery_260_23_30429.jpg


One thing, though--after you manage to get the rifle together in the new stock, you may want to use a small amount of blue Loctite on the side screws that hold the rear insert in place, as mine would always loosen over time.

FWIW, if the above doesn't work, try putting everything back on the old stock and reinstalling the old stock, just to make sure you are doing everything right and understand how all the pieces fit together. Then transfer them back to the new stock and try again.
 
Thanks for the comments.

The best way to show you my problem is...well, by showing you my problem.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words:

Mini-4.gif

Photo A
As you can see by the inset, the top portion of the rifle
will not fit between the metal inserts. I even measured it
with my calipers and I would have to remove the inserts
to get the barrel assembly to fit into the stock.



.
Mini-7.gif

Photo B
Here are the insets from my original wood stocks. Does anything
look amiss? Note distance marked by red arrow. There doesn't
appear to be enough room.



.
Mini-5a.gif

Photo C
Here's another angle. From the looks of it, the gun wants to go
in the direction of the green arrow, but the rear shows I have
to get it to go in before the trigger assembly insert (yellow
arrow). It makes me wonder whether the barrel insert should be
taken out or not. But even if it was, there still doesn't appear
to be enough room for the barrel assembly (see Photo B).



.
If anyone has any ideas of how to get my rifle to fit this stock, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!
 
Dave nailed it. Take the insert out of the stock, flip it over, and put it back in. The U-shaped channels in the sides of the rear insert should face the top of the stock, and those rectangular projections that extend downward from the sides of the receiver fit into those channels.

Here's an exploded view; the insert in the correct configuration is at bottom left:

23-1.gif
 
i don't think you need the magwell insert on a synthetic stock. the forearm liner up front, yes. put it together without the insert & shoot it. you'll be just fine. the magwell liner is only used on wood stocks to prevent cracks from recoil.
 
You guys got it right. I now have both inserts in and the top part of the rifle in place. Anyway, now I'm having a tough time putting in the trigger assembly. Again, tight fit. I can see where it's supposed to go, but the assembly just ain't going in to the bottom. (In the wood stock it sort of drops right in.)

The trigger assembly is still in the "open" position and the safety engaged. Can't use my rubber mallet without hammering the trigger assembly closed.

Any suggestions?

(As you can tell, I haven't worked with rifles much. I'm mostly into hand guns, where a rubber mallet often comes in handy.)

Thanks, again!
 
i don't think you need the magwell insert on a synthetic stock. the forearm liner up front, yes. put it together without the insert & shoot it. you'll be just fine. the magwell liner is only used on wood stocks to prevent cracks from recoil.
No, both inserts are absolutely necessary. The Butler Creek synthetic stock is designed around both inserts, and the rear insert is what the trigger guard locks into. The front insert keeps your stock from being charred by combustion gases during cycling, and also helps keep the grip area cool.

It may take a little juggling to get the trigger guard in, but it should NOT take much force. If it doesn't slide right in, it's not lined up correctly.

If you look closely at the front of the triggerguard, there is a horizontal U-shaped part that makes up the rear of the magazine well. If you look closely at the bottom of the stock, you'll see where it is inletted to take this. The trigger assembly has to slide vertically into the channels in the receiver made for it, and it may take a little jiggling to get it lined up, but it will fit.

If you don't have the forearm liner in, the action may be too far to the rear in the stock. Put both liners in (forearm liner first, then the receiver plate, U-shaped gaps facing up), tighten the side screws, and then try again.

Once you've done it once, it will be easy, trust me.
 
Thanks. I'm still working on getting that bottom part in. I had a synthetic recoil buffer in place and that seems to have caused many of the problems fitting the top into the stock. Now that it's gone, the top part is in just fine.

Sure would hate to take that trigger guard out once I had it in, though. Guess it must be like the Ruger auto .22 pistol. Once you know how it's done, it gets easier.
 
Nope. The bottom part just isn't going in. The top part is in, I can see the place where it's supposed to drop in, but jiggling it, beating it and begging it just doesn't seem to work. I even took the top part off the stock and tried slipping in the trigger assembly without the top, but it won't go through the bottom.

Could it be a defective stock? I'd think the bottom should just fall in. Any more ideas?
 
If you look on the right side of the trigger assembly there's a little raised part that slides into a slot on the right recoil lug of the receiver.
You have to make sure it's lined up right or the trigger assembly won't slide in.
 
Yes, I see where it's supposed to go, but it's just not making room for the trigger assembly to drop into. Like I said, even removing the top portion of the rifle from the stock doesn't help. The bottom will simply not make it through the space.

It's frustrating to have come so far, but if it can't be forced or beaten into the slot, not much I can do. Again, it's not the barrel assembly that's stopping it, it's the opening in the stock itself. I tried cutting a little off the side, but it's very difficult to cut.

Still open for suggestions, but think I'm going down for the third time.


aa1.gif

It should slip right on in, but it doesn't. Seems
to be hanging on the stock, not anything underneath.


.

aa2.gif

aa4.gif

aa5.gif

aa3.gif


If anyone sees any glaring errors, please let me know. And again, thank you for your comments and suggestions.
 
Don't forget that there are differences between the 180, 181, 182, and 183 (serial number prefix) Mini-14s and not all parts are interchangable. If I recall correctly, Butler Creek stocks should fit serial numbers 181 and up.
 
If you are trying to install the trigger group as it appears in the photo it cannot drop in. The release isn't fully open. Raise the trigger guard as far as it will go, with bolt closed start the trigger group into the action,rotating the trigger guard downward as you pull back on the bolt. As the trigger group seats ,allow the bolt to ease forward then lock in your trigger guard. I have found this technique to work on Mini-14 and Mini-30 in Butler Creek stocks. I had a very difficult time as well until I became accustomed to doing it and then it was very easy,so don't give up!
 
I have a serial number beginning with 185-, so I'm probably okay.

Jimmy Ray, thank you for your comments. What do you mean the release isn't fully open?

The trigger guard is open and the assembly is sitting in place. The bolt is closed. How far should I pull the bolt back? I tried pulling it back some, but it doesn't seem to want to give much.

Will keep working on it.

I'm surprised the instructions were so poor with this thing. I'm always wary when I read things like, "Move the building you're in 2-3 inches to the north; next...." (In short, the instructions don't anticipate that anyone would have trouble dropping in the trigger assembly. They just state it as a step and move on.)
 
I have been trying to include info from the Mini's manual but I just can't get it to go. Maybe this will work. If it comes through,look at figure F to see the position of a fully opened trigger guard. If this doesn't work send me ([email protected])your e-mail addy and I'll send it directly to you.
<C:\Documents and Settings\Family\My Documents\My Pictures\tmp276.RTF>
 
The trigger guard won't go in unless you pull the trigger guard as far away from the rest of the trigger group as it will go.
 
If you notice, the trigger guard has a couple parts on it that latch into the recoil lugs on the receiver.
You can't get it in without it fully open.
I'll post a picture in a minute.
 
Ok, so the picture's of an M1A, but it's the same principle. It was just easier for me to grab it than dig in the safe for the Mini-14.
100_1899.jpg

Sorry about taking a little more than a minute. :D
 
Confederate, i have a butler creek synthetic stock for my mini-30 & there is no reason for the magwell liner. the screws on the side are purely cosmetic. i think if you try assembly without the liner you will find everything will go together. for more info go to perfectunion.com on any mini issues. i don't know of any synthetic stock that uses the magwell liner. good luck & i wish you success.
 
pbr, the stock is designed to use the liner.

His problem is that the trigger guard isn't fully open like it should be when he tries to insert it.
 
Vityaz, i have no experience with the folder, only the sporter. it did not require the liner & works just fine. i still see no reason for a synthetic to need the liner. the stock cracking issue is not a problem. i was just suggesting an alternative to what he's trying now which doesn't seem to be working. i've had many mini's over the years & only saw the need for the magwell liner in the wood stocked versions. but i could be mistaken. like i said, the folder is foreign to me.
 
The problem is the trigger guard isn't fully open.
The locking lugs on it are hitting on the bottom of the recoil lugs on the receiver, meaning it won't seat all the way.
 
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