TO POLISH OR NOT TO POLISH

Sometimes a little slickup goes along way but what it is like to begin with determines if to do ahead of time or after some break in.

I think its better to let it wear a bit so you can see what is going on and where refinement may on may not be needed. If it's a good shooter leave it alone as you may degrade the accuracy.
 
Never use abrasives on a gun.
When I fitted slides to frames for Les, I was often asked if I used lapping compound ( JBs non-imbedding ) My answer was unequivocally:

HELL NO!

Lapping compound removes metal. That loosens the fit. The exception was chromed or coated guns. They were sent out slightly loose, because chroming and coatings add thickness.
 
When I fitted slides to frames for Les, I was often asked if I used lapping compound ( JBs non-imbedding ) My answer was unequivocally:

HELL NO!

Lapping compound removes metal. That loosens the fit. The exception was chromed or coated guns. They were sent out slightly loose, because chroming and coatings add thickness.

I'm not understanding something here . . .

Did you mean that you don't use lapping compound after you have the slide properly fitted to the frame? Or did you mean that you never use lapping or polishing abrasives at all when fitting a slide? If the latter, ah . . . how do you do the last steps after you put the mill and/or files aside? Stones?
 
Fitting the slide to the frame is done without any use of lapping compound. The CNC milled parts are close to being a good fit as received. Fitting a slide to a frame was relatively quick and easy, usually requiring no more than ten or fifteen minutes. I never used any lapping or polishing compound at all.

Fitting a frame to a slide requires only one mill file, a soft hammer and a few choice words. I have done thousands of them. Beat the slide on the frame, beat it back off, file where the rub marks are. Repeat as needed. It is easier and simpler than it sounds. Anybody could learn to do it properly in ten minutes.
 
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