Totally clueless on Nagants.

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Amazed, but happy, to hear your 9-yr old can handle a Mosin. A recoil pad is still a good idea. I use one because why collect bruises, esp. when I have a few other hobbies where they're harder to avoid.

Interesting that this category of Mosin rates only a 4 on the scale of 10 at 7.62X54R.net, if the numbers produced are indeed just around 150K (which tracks with the history, in which Tula was evacuated in '42, as Army Group Center approached). May be that the scale is sort of demanding, and only the really odd birds (like the late date hex receiver example mentioned above) make it into the top 5 slots.

Not sure from a technical wood-working point of view, but I don't think of arctic birch as a soft or crappy wood, and I've seen very nice refinished stocks, both oil and shellac. Have a "blonde" myself that I re-shellacked because the "original" was in such poor condition.

For "sticky bolt" and cleaning in general, my two kopeks. Heat and mineral spirits. For cosmo. Forget the temp at which cosmo liquifies, but it's low. My Mosins were were all cleaned by full disassembly and a routine of heating in boiled water/soaking in mineral spirits. Over and over until I couldn't find a speck of cosmo. Easy except for the receiver/barrel, with that I just stand one end, then the other, in the hot water/mineral spirits, over and over until clean.

Some stocks, as a commenter noted above, are simply too soaked with cosmo to be rescued. Though you might be surprised at some that can be rescued. Of all mine, only one had a trouble-level amount of cosmo in it. Made a solar oven out of a rifle box (cut one flat side off, painted inside black, covered open side with clear wrap). Crammed Viva paper towels (brand matters here) into every nook/cranny of the stock, wrapped it all tightly in the same. Baked in the hot summer sun, couple days, change paper towels, repeat. Eventually got most of the cosmo out.

MnFats you might find the stock "weeping" cosmo when shooting, esp. during hot weather. If so, try my method to clean the stock. Otherwise, very strongly recommend my heat/mineral spirits regimen for every bit of metal (regardless of how it seems/looks now). That way you should be done, forever. Not sure if lacquered ammo actually causes sticky bolt - if the action/bolt are already completely cosmo-free. Maybe.
 
One more thing on Mosins, from the historical side.

Not long ago I read a book, Voices of Stalingrad (Jonathan Bastable), which I highly recommend. Based largely on first-hand accounts and some well-connected second-hand accounts of participants or their relatives.

One Soviet veteran whose account is used had some comments to warm the hearts of every Mosin-owning history lover.

He was fighting inside one of the factories (probably Barrikady) in the northern section of Stalingrad, just before the Soviet encirclement/counter-offensive took pressure off the besieged Soviet units holding on to small parts of the city. (yes, INSIDE the factory - these were enormous buildings, and a lot of fighting raged inside, with the two sides struggling to take this room or hall or sheltering, in the Soviet case, behind the enormous forges of a steel factory).

He described shooting so much that he had to use some rag to hold on to the fore-end of his Mosin, it became so hot (sound familiar?) - and this was November, and cold. He also recalled his right palm becoming so bruised from cycling the bolt (sound familiar?) that he used a piece of a brick to knock it open.

Anyway - the sort of thing that makes me glad I have a few Mosins, which in any case I got largely for historical interest.
 
Actually they destroyed the mum themselves before surrendering at the end of the war so as to not disgrace the emperor. The US troops were actually ordered to allow them time to do so before turning them over.

Intact mums are usually a sign of a pickup. Ground mums usually are mix masters, bolts in one pile gunz in another.
 
That arisaka is a very good buy due to the barrel being uncut, and they also did not cut the tang short on the back of the receiver. If I was in there it would come home with me and I would stow it away till I could find a stock for it.

Very commonly they get the barrel and tang cut to fit in a sporter stock, and the bolt handle bent or cut off. A lot of them were also rechambered to 30-06. Bring an empty 30-06 case and see if it will chamber. If it does not chamber it’s likely still the original 7.7x58 jap.

7.7 Jap is pretty darn close to 3006, and the US Army converted some themselves....some sources say for Korea, some don't not sure how much truth is in there for that. But it is a good strong action.

The sight is an early one, the AA sights went away as pretty stupid later on when airplanes started flying around at 300+mph....but in the early days in china with slow planes....
 
That being said it looks fairly complete...
Yep, its a Type 99. Its a good buy, especially since most of the "anti-aircraft" rear sights are still intact.
What appears to be missing? (Other than the stock of course). And is the "springy" floor plate I described normal?

Edit: will any Arisaka stock fit this or were there variations?
 
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What appears to be missing? (Other than the stock of course). And is the "springy" floor plate I described normal?

Edit: will any Arisaka stock fit this or were there variations?

There is a lot missing, I would suggest going over to Liberty Tree Collectors and look through their Reference Library. You can see the differences between the Type 38 and the Type 99 and see if that is something you want to take on to restoring it fully. Stocks, Ebay is your friend. Numrich has some stuff, limited though. Many different type of variations, and I don't know all what you will need. My knowledge is limited on this subject. Best of luck!
 
Frankly, most uncut early-war or pre-war Type 99 stocks go for more than most complete Type 99 rifles. If you can find one that is in poor operating condition and has a defaced mum but with a complete stock you will probably come out ahead. Just be sure to check under the lower barrel band for the infamous "duffel bag cut".

s-l1600.jpg
Here's the part that's usually cut off to fit in a duffel bag. Usually got thrown away.
 
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As we drifted to Japanese rifles, I wanted to toss this in there as well.....the dust cover.

They did not get discarded by the troops in the field.....start taking parts off your equipment and tossing them is a pretty big no no.

The dust cover really did not make noise if it was with the rifle it was made for....yup they are a set. Where they get rattly is when you start mixing them up.....and again if you are picking out of a pile, why pick the correct one to your rifle.....heck why pick it up at all, you don't need it to shoot deer in Iowa after the war.

If you come across one check the numbers they are SN# to the rifle....and if they do happen to match that is a big bonus.....same with their "paratroop" rifles....find one where both half match and you will pay for it....heck you will pay for a mis match now.
 
As we drifted to Japanese rifles, I wanted to toss this in there as well.....the dust cover.

They did not get discarded by the troops in the field.....start taking parts off your equipment and tossing them is a pretty big no no.

The dust cover really did not make noise if it was with the rifle it was made for....yup they are a set. Where they get rattly is when you start mixing them up.....and again if you are picking out of a pile, why pick the correct one to your rifle.....heck why pick it up at all, you don't need it to shoot deer in Iowa after the war.

If you come across one check the numbers they are SN# to the rifle....and if they do happen to match that is a big bonus.....same with their "paratroop" rifles....find one where both half match and you will pay for it....heck you will pay for a mis match now.
So guess what I've been trying to get a buddy of mine to let me borrow?
 
7.7 Jap is pretty darn close to 3006, and the US Army converted some themselves....some sources say for Korea, some don't not sure how much truth is in there for that. But it is a good strong action.
It was done by the U.S. Army as an emergency measure for Korea to arm friendlies. There is an ordnance manual from the Army detailing what what done. Too lazy to look it up but I have posted the link to it on other THR threads. Believe the link was on Forgotten Weapons or some sort.

Updated
, ah, here it is https://www.forgottenweapons.com/us-arisaka-manual/ Glad to know my memory still works.

Another post on this.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-arisaka-project.813038/
 
They have an Arisaka with a cut down forend for $75 :D Well $100 but I bet I could get it down to $75. Clueless on those as well though.

Worth it even if you --gasp--part it out. Even complete bolts are bringing over $100 now just by themselves. Restoration might be a pricey challenge today though as affordable replacement stocks in good condition generally have vanished.

The good news is that through Prvi Partisan, decent ammo and brass is around to fire the beasts in their original caliber.
 
Worth it even if you --gasp--part it out. Even complete bolts are bringing over $100 now just by themselves. Restoration might be a pricey challenge today though as affordable replacement stocks in good condition generally have vanished.

The good news is that through Prvi Partisan, decent ammo and brass is around to fire the beasts in their original caliber.
I have to pass :(. I spent the last two days looking for a replacement stock. EBay has one for pushing $300! I just...cant do it. If it was an '03 A3 with no stock I'd be all over it :D.

Bright side is my NICS check went through today so I can at least pic up the Mosin. Shame about the Arisaka though. I don't think I'd part it out. I was more looking to restore it but holy cow those stocks are rare.
 
It was done by the U.S. Army as an emergency measure for Korea to arm friendlies. There is an ordnance manual from the Army detailing what what done. Too lazy to look it up but I have posted the link to it on other THR threads. Believe the link was on Forgotten Weapons or some sort.

Updated
, ah, here it is https://www.forgottenweapons.com/us-arisaka-manual/ Glad to know my memory still works.

Another post on this.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-arisaka-project.813038/

However did they get issued out....that is what I was looking for.

I will read over your links to see if it answers the question.
 
Your buddy may be afraid that you will sporterize it.
Hah! Fair point. He's shot my other Arisakas.

This one honestly tho is completely safe from me. He's Japanese and His grandfather served in the Pacific, they are very proud of their heritage and his grandfathers service.

The old man brought it back with him.Paratrooper, complete, and in nearly perfect shape.
 
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I have to pass :(. I spent the last two days looking for a replacement stock. EBay has one for pushing $300! I just...cant do it. If it was an '03 A3 with no stock I'd be all over it :D.

Bright side is my NICS check went through today so I can at least pic up the Mosin. Shame about the Arisaka though. I don't think I'd part it out. I was more looking to restore it but holy cow those stocks are rare.

No T99 or Long T38 replacement stocks were made AFAIK although Numrich used to have a replacement T38 carbine stock which I dithered around buying until they were sold out. These surface from time to time.

There is hope in the future, one young guy on ebay is starting to get into making replacement milsurp stocks for a lot of the old ones such as a No. 1 forestock and I recently purchased a Lebel replacement stock from him. He is at work trying to make a Ross 1905 Mk. 2 stock now. While these stocks are roughed in and require final fitting, the old stocks are becoming made of unobtanium and it becomes cheaper to buy a whole rifle. Some of my more recent restorations have become years long projects as I refuse to pay exhorbitant costs on auction sites and only pay what the parts are worth to me. Eventually you get lucky--generally when someone puts it up on buy it now and you get to it first or the stock is damaged and needs repair. Pretty ones go fast and get high prices.

My advice if you really want one is to go ahead and buy the working rifle if it is good shape mechanically and then spend a couple of years hunting for reasonable restoration parts on fleabay or gunbroke auction sites after you get what you can from parts houses. It is not like you cannot shoot it in the interim. Trying to make one new unissued rifle is really not an option but you can make it look like it actually is, a battered survivor of the World Wars.

Some sporter stocks can be restored via donor rifle pieces but the Arisaka is a tough one as the woods were not those of stocks made in other countries. I once knew a lot of details when restoring them including stocks but have forgotten a lot of it. GunnyUSMC is really the specialist in stock restoration that I would consult with questions although I have restored a few because I have worked with wood in carpentry and furniture making for decades (as a hobby) and had no other options that were affordable for restoration at the time.
 
However did they get issued out....that is what I was looking for.

I will read over your links to see if it answers the question.

There is some dispute on this on the forums and as I have no dog in the fight, don't particularly take one side or the other--some argue police were issued the rifles and others insist South Korean regulars. Probably a bit of both as the U.S. and South Korea were unprepared for the Norks invading and were scrambling in theater to get whatever goes bang to trigger pullers asap. Given the fluidity of lines with infiltrators and chaos during the early part of the war, I would suspect the line between police,militia, and army in South Korea was not that relevant other than friendlies needed guns and the U.S. wanted to keep its forces armed with issued weapons until the logistics caught up. There is a long history of issuing obsolete or captured weapons to rear guard troops and paramilitary forces including police while keeping the good ones for the tip of the spear troops.
 
As I believe someone posted above, a way to decipher cartouches is found at http://7.62x54r.net/
along with a lot of other info. Nice looking rifle for WWII vintage and it has probably been rearsenaled (see the lined out mag serial for example) post WWII. Should be a nice shooter.
 
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