tricks on getting blades razor sharp.

[lobo9er]

Any tip on getting blades razor sharp? I have no problem getting things sharp but I want a razor edge and cant seem to get the hang of it. In particular my hatchets. I know the argument on axes not needing a blade that is razor sharp, but that doesnt mean i dont want to be able to do so. Any tips or info will help thanks.

 

[stork]

Consistency in the angle of the blade against the honing stone. Simple...NOT EASY.

Decades ago I gave up the fantasy of my ability to hold a consistent angle and bought a LoRay sharpener (Lansky has the same idea). From the very first blade I had an edge capable of dry shaving with ease with their system. While I'm not sure how well it would work on a hatchet, it sure works great on knives.

FWIW

 

[Black Toe Knives]

Any tip on getting blades razor sharp? I have no problem getting things sharp but I want a razor edge and cant seem to get the hang of it. In particular my hatchets. I know the argument on axes not needing a blade that is razor sharp, but that doesnt mean i dont want to be able to do so. Any tips or info will help thanks.

You need to start with a good blade.

 

[BrainOnSigs]

I use several methods...and always finish with a strop.....but the best advice I ever got was about sharpening too often/soon.....or putting on the wrong edge for the intended purpose.

Today's steel...especially the stuff that is 58-62 on the Rockwell hardness scale (like S30V)...will hold an edge for a long time. Many people mistakenly think that their blade edge is dull when it is only the teeth on the edge out of alignment.

For every hour of hard use on any of my EDC's I head for the strop. Apply a dab of Flitz to the strop and work the blade back and forth 20 times each side...and the edge is restored. I can do this 4-5 times and still get a good edge back.

Remember....everytime you break-out the stones, crock sticks, etc...you are removing steel and reducing the life of the knife.

The last bit of wisdom given to me is to think about what you are using the knife for. The wicked sharp, thin-edged knives are much sharper than a razor.....but they wear very fast if you are cutting things like cardboard, etc. A "toothy" edge would be much better for that purpose.

 

[lobo9er]

You need to start with a good blade.

ok...
my blades are of all hapes and sizes cheap ones and good stuff.
the lansky maybe the ticket and a strop will be picked up at some point
can I use any leather belt as a strop?

 

[Smokey Joe]

Razor edge...

On an axe/hatchet??? Are you planning to shave with it??? You can do it but the razor edge won't last, if you're cutting wood or anything like.

For a razor edge, you need: (1) Consistency of angle. (2) Fineness of grit for the second and third stone to be used. (3) Strop at the end.

I've started learning to sharpen with a belt grinder, and the finest grit I usually use is 15 micron. On really good steel, I'll go down to a 9-micron grit belt. Also have a felt belt to use with white rouge, then finish up with a leather belt as a strop. I can get any knife from a hard Buck to an El Chinese Cheapo, spooky sharp.

Any leather will do as a strop. Certainly an ordinary pants belt can be used--start with the rough side, end with the smooth side of the leather. Some people use a cardboard wheel, even.

As to requiring excellent steel for a razor edge, in my moderate experience, a fine edge can be put on just about ANY relatively thin piece of metal. (Or even non-metal--most people have suffered a paper cut or 2--PAPER, fer cryin' out loud!) On good steel it's easier, and the edge lasts longer in use.

 

[Black Toe Knives]

On an axe/hatchet??? Are you planning to shave with it??? You can do it but the razor edge won't last, if you're cutting wood or anything like.

I have seen Tim Lively forge a camp knife made of 5160, old truck spring. chop a 2x4 four or five times and still shave, that were sharpen on sandstones.

 

[Dionysusigma]

You use the term "razor edge" as if it's a good thing.

The only bladed devices I have that truly are razor-sharp are a couple of scalpels in my med bag, and what I use to shave with daily. The former have a manufactured edge that I doubt I could replicate with the angles they use, and the latter have a very unusual grind common pretty much only to straight razors.

Better questions would be 1) What sort of edge do I need, and 2) How do I get it there?

 

[Zeke/PA]

For knives I use either a Spyderco or bench stones namley Medium India and Hard Arkansas finalized by a leather strop.
On a really dull axe a flat mill file is the ticket followed by a round combination Corbourndum stone.
The round stone works very well for "touching up" my Machete.

 

[Smokey Joe]

Axe, knife, razor...

Jim--you said

I have seen Tim Lively forge a camp knife made of 5160, old truck spring. chop a 2x4 four or five times and still shave, that were sharpen on sandstones.

With a hand-forged, skillfully hand-tempered KNIFE of 5160, I don't doubt that it can be done. Back when I worked in the woods (all day with a Plumb double-bit Dreadnaught) it was easy to see that an AXE, at least a high-grade Plumb, was tempered so as to be tough, not hard, i.e. it retained the ability to cut wood all day long on one sharpening, but lost the fine razor edge you'd need to cut hair or such.

The axes were easy to sharpen with a few strokes of a file, then the fine side of a hockey-puck carborundum stone. We never used the coarse side.

I worked for the state, at a camp with crews brushing out under the telephone lines to fire towers and such-like jobs. (Yes, telephone lines and fire towers. This was "a few" years back.) We used mostly hand saws, axes, and Sandvik brush axes. The camp supplied tools, of course, but I bought my own top-of-the-line Dreadnaught.

 

[Eric Draven]

Try a Strop. I have a secret procedure I do to get mine Razor sharp, but it really all comes down to edge Geometry. IF the edge has PROPER Geometry, then you can get it razor sharp, but if not, you will only be able to get a working edge.
Sometimes a razor edge is a bad idea cause it can chip easily.

 

[Robert Wilson]

For whatever it's worth, I have found "razor edges" to be overrated for most purposes. I like my razors to be razor sharp. I like my knives to be good at cutting meat, which means a "toothy" edge that doesn't shave well if at all.

 

[lobo9er]

well finally with a little patience! i found a old rusty hatchet head dull as a butter knife worked it on a wet stone for about 20min and worked it on a pice of leather. the leather was the key for me this time anyhow, small piece of deer hide. never used a "strop" before, didn't think it would make a huge difference but it does

 

[BrainOnSigs]

well finally with a little patience! i found a old rusty hatchet head dull as a butter knife worked it on a wet stone for about 20min and worked it on a pice of leather. the leather was the key for me this time anyhow, small piece of deer hide. never used a "strop" before, didn't think it would make a huge difference but it does

Strop till it pops!