trimming and chamfer details

[thomis]

I've finally shot some of this brass enough that it's time to trim. I have an old Redding trimmer, the kind that bolts to the bench. I don't know if I have it set right but it leaves a very sharp edge on the mouth of the brass. Is this the whole reason for "chamferring" the case? I've read about it on here and see a lot of folks mentioning chamfer but I don't know the process. Do all trimmers leave a sharp edge like this and can someone outline the process of chamferring? Pics would be helpful too.

I'm loading for .243, .308, .44 and .357/.38 if that helps.

Thanks,
thomis

 

[gamestalker]

Yes, it is necessary to ream & chamfer after trimming. If you don't remove/clean up that sharp edge, it will make seating bullets difficult and shave them too. But probably the biggest issue with not reaming and chamfering will be experienced when chambering. I would doubt a case that hasn't had the mouth cleaned up after trimming will even chamber, and if it does it's going to cause other problems such as the bullet getting pinched in the throat when it's fired, thus unpredictably high pressures.

 

[Mike 27]

Sounds normal, and yes you need to chamfer and debur the brass after trimming. The tools for this are cheap. I know the Lee tool costs less than $5, and does both. This makes for easy bullet insertion as well.

 

[SlowFuse]

To me, chamfer and deburring steps are just as important as trimming. The lee tool is a little rough on the fingers if you're doing a large run, but it always works great for me! One day I'll graduate to a more automated process.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

there are some trimmers that chamfer and deburr in the same step as trimming. RCBS makes a 3-way cutter and there are others that are similar.

i trim in an L.E. Wilson trimmer and use a RCBS chamfer/deburr tool in a Sinclair power drill adapter. it works well, but is a bit tedious.

 

[Sniper66]

Deburring and chamfering is a very important step and allows for smooth bullet seating. The hand tool is cheap and is only a probem if you have lots of brass to trim and it can be hard on the fingers after awhile. I do a lot of reloading so I have a Lyman power trimmer and an RCBS case prep center which has power deburr and chamfer attachments. Both great tools and makes the job really easy.

 

[Hondo 60]

I deburr & chamfer with a VERY inexpensive tool from Lee.
Costs all of $3.79 at MidwayUSA
Might even be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389104/lee-chamfer-and-deburring-tool

 

[snuffy]

First, some terminology. Chamfering refers to both the inside AND outside edge of the case mouth. Reaming is making the inside of a round hole larger, reaming a brass case to reduce thickness of the neck.

Most chamfer tools are a combo tool for both the inside and outside edge of the case mouth. Just about all of them have a fairly abrupt angle for both, 45 degrees. Lyman makes what they call a VLD inside chamfer tool. It's angle is very long, 75 degrees.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/342199/lyman-chamfer-tool-vld-very-low-drag

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/211588/lyman-outside-chamfer-and-deburring-tool

Third choice is the Lyman combo tool that includes the VLD inside chamfer tool, outside chamfer, large and small primer pocket cleaner, and large and small military primer crimp removers;

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/135615/lyman-case-prep-multi-tool

Or, you can get the standard lyman 45 degree chamfer tool;

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/284379/lyman-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-22-to-45-caliber

Any of these is real simple to use. You rotate them when in contact with the case mouth, then flip it over and do the other surface. IMPORTANT, you do NOT want to make the mouth of the case look sharp like a like a leather punch. You just want to rid the mouth of the burr caused by trimming.

The VLD chamfer tool is better because the long taper allows any bullet to enter the neck easily. The standard 45 degree chamfer is rather abrupt, it will shave copper off most bullets while seating them.

I use the lee system to trim all my brass. The case spinner turns the case while I hold the cutter/pilot against the mouth, I use a cordless drill. I then run the drill slower while holding the chamfer tool against the mouth while the drill turns the case. I can also use a flash hole deburring tool at the same time. I finish while holding a pad of 0000 steel wool on the spinning case. It'll knock yer eyes out with the shine!

 

[CMV]

Here are some pictures of a .223 case. First is just trimmed, second is focused on the deburr (outside), and last is focused on the chamfer (inside). Technically they are both chamfers, but I think the outside cut is supposed to just clean up & not make as much of a cut as the inside - I could be wrong and apparently removed as much material from the inside as the outside on this one. Anyway, go lightly with the power tools if you do it that way - it would be real easy to take a couple thou from the OAL.

 

[blarby]

I used to manually chamfer using the lee tools for some time.

I purchased an RCBS trim-mate when I wore my finger tips out.

I reload for a lot of lever ammo, so trimming and chamfering are routine for me....it speeds up the process greatly.

" Tool the work, not work the tool" is an awesome adage for brass chamfering....brass is soft- cutting steel shouldn't be.

A light touch will carry you a long way with a machine process, you might need to push a little more with hand tools. My RCBS groans when I push too hard- its a great minder !

I have used the RCBS 3-way cutter. For me, too much material collects in the bit, and the cut angles suffered. I was also getting very sharp edges on the case mouth... I'm not sure if its across the board for these tools, but I prefer a rounder edge.