Trouble Resizing .223 Brass

[M4Carbine503]

Ok my fellow reloaders I need your help. I have been loading for several years, but it has always been pistol calibers. I am new to reloading the .223 cartridge. I am sizing my Lake City brass with a Redding Full Length Sizing Die and then checking my length with a Dillon Case Length Gage. The sizing die is somehow placing a big dent on the shoulder of each and every piece of brass I run thru it. And although the pictures don't really show it, the rest of the shoulder has ripples going all the way around it. What am I doing wrong?? I set-up the die exactly as Redding's instructions say. Is it the die body causing this or is it the expander ball? It fits perfectly in my Dillon Case Gage so I'm pretty sure it will chamber properly. But I know it isn't right and it's ugly as all get up. I'm assuming that once it's fire formed it will return to normal.

 

[rondog]

How are you lubricating the cases? Never happened to me, but I've read too much lube can cause dented shoulders.

 

[gamestalker]

That is called a "lube dent".

They happen when you either use too much lube, or you get it on the shoulder of the case, or both.

You aren't putting lube inside the die by any chance, are ya?

If you are using something like Imperial lube, then just back off on how much you are applying and where you are applying it.

You can get away with accidentally applying it heavy on the lower portion of the body extending down to the case head. In fact, that is where it needs lubing the most. But the neck should just barely have a film on it, and then just a very light film on the inside of the neck, but nothing at all on the shoulder.

GS

 

[cfullgraf]

To add to what gamestalker said, when you do start getting dents in the neck, you have to clean the die to remove the excess lubricant.

Sometimes, I will alternate a lubricated case with a dry case when sizing. This helps keep the lubricant build up inside the die in check. Risk is, if you are not careful and understand the feel of the dry case entering the die, you could get the case stuck.

If the dents are restricted to just the shoulder area, the cases can still be loaded. The dents will blow out when shot. They just look ugly.

 

[M4Carbine503]

Ok guys. Thanks for the help. That is exactly what I have been doing wrong. I am using Imperial sizing wax and applying it to the neck and shoulder. I thought that's where I should apply it. Like I mentioned earlier, up until now I have only loaded pistol calibers and I have carbide dies for those, so lubing a case was never needed. Thanks again!!!

 

[Bart B.]

I've always lubed the entire outside of bottleneck cases full length sizing them "A little dab'll do ya" from those Brylcreem hair cream ads is what one needs to remember.

Much more uniform sizing from case to case.

After all, new cases have that sheet of cartridge brass coined, cupped, drawn, headed, bunted and the shoulder and neck formed with lube everywhere. Reloaded ammo can be the same. If you use a little dab of it. Full length sizing a case is the exact same process as that at the end of a bottleneck case production ine.

 

[R.Ph. 380]

That dent will disappear the first time the case is fired, so don't discard it just "fire form" it. Keep an eye out and look for splits and a bright line around the head or lower portion of the case.

Bill

 

[Blue68f100]

Make sure the vent hole in the sizing die is clear......

 

[judgedelta]

I have found that the pump spray lube is just as good and a lot quicker and not as much chance of getting too much on the brass. Just a few squirts on the brass in a gallon zip-loc bag, close and shake well. Pour out on a pan, let dry and 10 minutes and you are good to go. Just keep a feel on the handle and if one starts to stick, stop, back out and a touch of Imperial. 223 isn't as bad as .308 about sticking (in my experience). If it don't fit, don't force it...

 

[zb338]

Change your lube to Hornady One Shot. It's a dry lube
and won't build up like some of the wet lubes. It will
still dent your shoulders if you pour enough on to them.
I use a stamp pad to apply lube that has a tendency to
make the lube go on more evenly.

Zeke

 

[frankenstein406]

I would clean out the die and start over. I use a q tip to spread a thin layer over the body and inside the neck.

 

[gamestalker]

I became a big fan of Dillon Case Lube. It comes in a pump bottle, so I can easily control how much I use, I pour a little into the cap and use a Q tip to apply. No more lube dents, and it's a bit less messy to work with than a conventional lube.

A little tip for anyone switching from a typical lube to a spray on, make absolutely sure it has dried completely before resizing. Failure to do so will most certainly result in a stuck case.

GS

 

[1KPerDay]

Change your lube to Hornady One Shot. It's a dry lube
and won't build up like some of the wet lubes. It will
still dent your shoulders if you pour enough on to them.
I use a stamp pad to apply lube that has a tendency to
make the lube go on more evenly.

Zeke

If you do this make sure you have a good stuck case remover handy. Imperial sizing wax is FAR superior to hornady one stuck IME.

 

[ZGunner]

If you do this make sure you have a good stuck case remover handy. Imperial sizing wax is FAR superior to hornady one stuck IME.

Agreed. I've used both and Imperial is always what I go back to. The One Shot works but the sizing is smoother and easier with the wax. I have my own mixture that I use for bulk loading .223. But for everything that touches my single stage it's Imperial Sizing Wax.

I do like the Hornady One Shot for cleaning parts.

 

[gamestalker]

I use both Imperial and DCL, just depends on what I'm doing, regarding which one I use. Neither has given me problems though, and for that matter, I've never stuck a case in better than 30 years of reloading, had a couple close calls though.

GS

 

[JWH321]

Are you guys confident that the dented cases can be used with this kind of dent? I ask, because I have about a couple of dozen (all military crimp types) that I dented identically to this. I quickly learned that I used too much oil when I first started out. They are perfect except for the dent but they have been sitting in a coffee can because I thought hey were ruined.

I hate to discard things that may still be usable. I'm Thrifty (others would say cheap).

 

[cfullgraf]

I'd load and shoot the case in the OP first post.

Generally, if the case has been resized, the dent is only in the shoulder, and the dent is not creased, I will use the case for plinking or informal target shooting.

The dent or dents will blow out (aka fire form) the next time the case is shot.

 

[matrem]

I believe that's a lube on the shoulder dent as well. It will self correct after you fire it.

You brought up lubing the expander ball. A bit of friction reduction, either on the inside of case neck or outside of expander ball is important.

As far as which brand lube to use:
I still use one-shot for small case reloading because it's fast as well as inexpensive.

Is it right for you, you make that call.
Most of my shoulder dent experience comes from my first few bottle neck rifle attempts 35 years ago using lube pads with the best lubes I knew of at the time, yet didn't realize it has to be kept off of the shoulder.

 

[joem1945]

Oil or lube dents are not a problem. Clean out the vent hole on your die. They can get clogged easily. do wash out your size / decap die frequently and relube the inside.

 

[entropy]

I use Hornady One-Shot. I tried it after years of using an RCBS 'roller' pad and RCBS lube. Never looked back. I apply it liberally to the cases, no problems with too little lube.

 

[br6ad]

I've been using one shot for awhile now. I put a couple of handfuls of 223 in a small container and spray a few seconds worth. I put the lid on and tumble it a few times. Never a problem and runs smooth.