Tru-Oil Damaging Metal?

[Panzerschwein]

Hey guys. I've got a wood and blued steel muzzleloader here and I'm using some Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil to brighten it up. Will it be okay if I just rub the Tru-Oil into the wood with the metal still on the gun? Or, should I take all the metal off? I've already done two layers with everything assembled but if it will damage the metal than I'll take it apart.

Thanks all!

 

[JeffG]

It won't hurt anything, but you might not like the look of it. Getting it back off of the metal might be difficult.

 

[BBBBill]

Damage the metal? No. But it will look like $&!#!

 

[4v50 Gary]

I'd rather rub it down with pure beeswax.

 

[boom boom]

Take the barrelled action out of it or mask it off with masking tape. The oil won't hurt the bluing but it will discolor it. Course, if you have the firearm long enough (50 year or so will do it), this type of discoloration will be called a patina.

 

[entropy]

Take the action out and use the Tru-Oil on the wood only. BTW, there are so many other better wood treatments than Tru-Oil. Beeswax has been mentioned, and gives a nice low polish. Good old J&J Paste Wax is a favorite of mine for a matte finish on hunting guns that will be out in the rain and such. For a shined up look, tung oil, linseed (BLO), or lemon oil give a nice shiny glow. (though with BLO, you'll have several coats and lots of work into it. )

Cover any metal on the stock, (escutcheons, etc.) with masking tape.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Dang... Well that's no good. I didn't know tru oil wasn't so good. Any way to remove it? I'm only 2 coats in.

 

[Kp321]

Coodill, there are as many opinions out there as there are products. If you are started with Tru-Oil, continue. I have been using it for 50 years and obviously like it.
They are all right on your original question, keep it off the metal. It won't harm the metal or finish, just doesn't look good.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Thanks! I am going for a satin sheen, not a glossy plasticy look, so will be knocking the shine off eventually.

Any tips to remove it from the metal? I got a bit on the triggerguard area and nose cap.

 

[BBBBill]

Paste wax (J&J or similar) is good for both the wood and metal after the finish is applied. I use paste wax on all my sporting guns. It adds rust protection for the metal and helps waterproof the wood. Still not a substitute for proper maintenance, but it really helps.

 

[JeffG]

Thanks! I am going for a satin sheen, not a glossy plasticy look, so will be knocking the shine off eventually.

Any tips to remove it from the metal? I got a bit on the triggerguard area and nose cap.

Mineral spirits and a rags, it's going to take some rubbing. Acetone, nailpolish remover works too.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Mineral spirits and a rags, it's going to take some rubbing. Acetone, nailpolish remover works too.

Thank you so much, I've got a bottle of mineral spirits at home.

I wonder if I should just quit while I'm ahead with two layer of tru-oil, let it cure, buff it up satin, and then do some beeswax on it?

 

[Bull Nutria]

I use Tru-oil on my refinished stocks it is good stuff, wax it if you want. it is easy to refinish in future if need be.
Bull

 

[boom boom]

Thanks! I am going for a satin sheen, not a glossy plasticy look, so will be knocking the shine off eventually.

Any tips to remove it from the metal? I got a bit on the triggerguard area and nose cap.

Coldill,
Not trying to discourage you as Tru Oil is good stuff and continuing to apply thin coats and rubbing it into the stock will yield a gorgeous satin finish over time--it helps if you use their stock conditioner prior to application especially on some woods that tend to blotchy areas of stain.

Some good info above on stock finishes above. I use beeswax thinned with organic mineral spirits too on the metal parts.

The major issue with the Tru Oil that I have found on the metal is not that it damages the blued finish directly but it kinda forms a varnish like gummy substance on top of the metal finish when it polymerizes and it is tough to remove from the metal (once it polymerizes) without scratching the blued or browned surface underneath. Under wet or humid conditions, it can seal in moisture which can cause rust pitting. You get this with old linseed oil as well (remember it is a base ingredient for linoleum) with equally bad results. See if you can remove the stuff on your metal with a k-tip or some other fine tipped such as a painter's brush doused in mineral oil, turpentine, or as a last resort acetone (Avoid MEK as that stuff is nasty stuff absent proper ventilation) or some such if you won't or can't dismount the action from the stock.

Personally, I would dismount the action anyway because I also use the oil finish inside the stock as well as it seals the barrel channel and helps keep the wood in the action area from splitting or softening from gun oils or solvents long term. This can help avoid warped stocks or cracks developing in the future.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Okay does anyone know if painters tape will harm gun bluing? I have not been able to find an answer. Some parts like the nosecap and ramrod entry pipe are not easily removed from the stock. I got all the other metal parts off and am working on removing the tru-oil with mineral spirits as we speak.

I'd just like to seal those parts off with tape before adding more layers.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Anyone know if painters tape will harm bluing?

 

[entropy]

Shouldn't. I always just used regular old masking tape.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Shouldn't. I always just used regular old masking tape.

Thanks, I'll use that. I just put on another coat and it's starting to look really nice. Also got all the metal of the stock I could and managed to remove the residue with a bronze bristle brush and some mineral spirits.

While we're here, anyone know what I should do to get a nice subdued satin sheen to the stock? I don't want it to be all that glossy, it's a classic sidelock muzzleloader so wouldn't look right all glossed out.

 

[BBBBill]

Painters tape will not harm bluing.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Buff with 0000 steel wool to dull the shine

 

[Kp321]

OOOO steel wool will dull the finish but I prefer to use 3f Brownells rubbing compound. It gives a more even finish.

 

[Panzerschwein]

OOOO steel wool will dull the finish but I prefer to use 3f Brownells rubbing compound. It gives a more even finish.

Donkey shorts, I'll check out that compound.

Startin to look REAL NICE over the dried out finish that it came with, just need to bust off that shine when it's through.