Trying to find a powder for a .357, Henry Big Boy Classic, 20" barrel

[mdi]

For info on just about anything you can think of about cast bullets, go here, there is a subforum dedicated to every aspect of lead bullet casting, lubing, loading and shooting; http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

If you purchase cast bullets make sure you get bullets with a diameter to fit your gun and "harder ain't necessarily better"...

I too, have a hankerin' for a Henry, a Big Boy Steel in 357 Mag., but finances being what they are for a retired mechanic, I'll have to wait 'till I save up enough...

 

[Toprudder]

Interesting read on cast bullets.
As mentioned earlier, next time spend the few extra $ and get the coated ones,
much less hassle and cleaner.

I like HP38 for light to middle loads (got to try WST), BE86 works well in the middle, H110/W296 for the full power stuff.
H110 does want a magnum primer and should not be reduced from the max very much. Only good for one thing full power loads but it does that well.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?resources/cast-bullets.4/

I would echo the same, except I would probably try Clays instead of HP38, with coated bullets. I will admit that I have not tried Clays in a rifle, but it performs very well for lighter loads in 38 and 357 handguns. BE-86 has worked very well for me in 357, is not position sensitive, and burns well from mild to wild. On the top end, it will come within about 150fps of full magnum loads.

If you want the utmost in velocity for a rifle, then 300-MP is what I use for either 357 or 44 mag rifles. For those loads, I stick to Zero JSP bullets (357 158gn, or 44 240gn).

 

[Indy Bob]

MDI ......
Thanks a ton for that link. I just bookmarked it and will go over it in a short time. Busy day here today!!!
Indy Bob

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I disagree about using Clays, it's way too fast a powder for the application. W231/HP-38 is fast enough, almost too fast for a rifle. Powders in the range of HS-6, AA#5 and the like are better for light loads IMO.

 

[labnoti]

I'm working on .357 now using Hodgdon Longshot. This isn't a recommendation because I don't know it well enough yet, but from what I can tell, it's a relatively slow burning powder compared to powders more popular for handguns. It's certainly on the slow end of spherical powders, but in a rifle you may even want to try an extruded powder. Longshot appears to produce lower pressures even when seating a bullet deeper (either because it's longer or you want the case shorter). I do believe you'll find the Henry cycles best with a certain cartridge overall length. There's a good chance it will cycle poorly with .38 Specials, but I wouldn't be able to tell you what OAL works best. In a rifle, it seems worthwhile to check results using magnum and non-magnum primers.

 

[Toprudder]

I disagree about using Clays, it's way too fast a powder for the application. W231/HP-38 is fast enough, almost too fast for a rifle. Powders in the range of HS-6, AA#5 and the like are better for light loads IMO.

You are probably right. I would not even attempt it with jacketed bullets, only coated (or lead) and I would only try it at the upper end of the charge range. For my own use, I would probably stick to BE86 for lighter loads. I just mentioned it because I believe that a light recoil load is best done with a fast burning powder at the top end of the charge range, than with a slow burning powder loaded at the low end.

 

[mdi]

Lots of new reloaders want to fix problems before they have them, like leading. Find some bullets that fit your gun and try them. I size my cast bullets .002"+ over groove diameter for my rifles and for my 44 Magnum Puma I can use plain base bullets of wheel weight alloy (about 11-12 BHN) and get very little leading. If you buy hard lead bullets without fitting them to your gun then you will more than likely get leading...

 

[Indy Bob]

I was reading the tech explanation of the hardness number, what it means etc. I understand what you are saying in your reply and agree what you say. I could be putting the horse before the cart. Evidently, and I might be incorrect, but I understood that the hot gasses that find their way past the back of the bullet is the culprit of most of the leading.
I did buy only a 100 bullet sample pack of hard cast from Missouri Bullet Co.

 

[kidneyboy]

I'm working on .357 now using Hodgdon Longshot. This isn't a recommendation because I don't know it well enough yet, but from what I can tell, it's a relatively slow burning powder compared to powders more popular for handguns. It's certainly on the slow end of spherical powders, but in a rifle you may even want to try an extruded powder. Longshot appears to produce lower pressures even when seating a bullet deeper (either because it's longer or you want the case shorter). I do believe you'll find the Henry cycles best with a certain cartridge overall length. There's a good chance it will cycle poorly with .38 Specials, but I wouldn't be able to tell you what OAL works best. In a rifle, it seems worthwhile to check results using magnum and non-magnum primers.

My Henry runs and cycles 160gr RN 38sp, 158gr SWC in 38sp and 357, 158gr and 125gr RNFP in 38sp and 357 and 158gr CPFP in 357 just fine.

 

[buck460XVR]

As others have said, it's very difficult at best to find one powder that will work well for carbine loads that will exit the barrel @ velocities at both ends of the spectrum(1150 and 1800fps) and everything else in between. I use Unique, H110/W296 and IMR4227 under my 158 gr pills in my .357 carbines. Wanting the best performance at a variety of velocities, I do not hesitate to use more than one powder. Makes more sense than throwing good bullets downrange with a powder that only works so-so at the desired velocity.