I have some Zero brand 158gr semi-jack hollow points I want to start loading. Most of all my manuels show full jack hollow points xtp's or gold dot's. I know to use recipies of like weights but what about design. I will not be loading anything full strengh right now but what is your rule of thumb. I always appreciate the help I get from you guys.
Trying to start a load
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Matt Dillon
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What caliber are we talking about? Revolver or Semi Auto?
Sport45
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Use jacketed bullet data for the semi-jacketed bullets. The part that engages the rifling is fully jacketed, ant that's what matters here.
janobles14
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dont use data for xtp/gold dot. use jacketed data. the reason for using different loads for those is that the large cavity in xtps/gold dots take up more case capacity and require different load levels.
janobles14
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what powder are you using?
I havn't bought it yet. I have Win brass, Zero bullets and was thinking of buying h110 and maybe 231 (or something along 231's lines for light target loads) I am still pondering powder chioces, been going through my load manuels and on line. I also have considered 2400. I will be eventually loading for my 44 Desert Eagle so I am trying to find a powder I can use for both. I realize eagles need a medium heavy load for cucling the action so mild loads are not really an option.
janobles14
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i use H110 and like it fine. just know that even the starting load of 110 is basically a full power .357.
for my "milder" loads i use HS-6. it does have a higher pressure (per volume) on average but lowers velocity and recoil. it also doesn't even come close to filling the case so dont double charge.
i dont think you can go wrong with either, or any of the other major powders out there. but H110 is at the higher end and is great for the
.44 too.
for my "milder" loads i use HS-6. it does have a higher pressure (per volume) on average but lowers velocity and recoil. it also doesn't even come close to filling the case so dont double charge.
i dont think you can go wrong with either, or any of the other major powders out there. but H110 is at the higher end and is great for the
.44 too.
SASS#23149
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If ur new at it,231 is a better way to go.110 is pretty hot stuff and is not readily downloaded.
jfh
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An excellent all-round powder for 38 and 357 is AA#5.
I like 231 for lighter loads, but have found pressures can peak quickly at the upper end of 231 recipes.
AA#5, however, is really linear; you can even build recipes on a continuum using either case.
Jim H.
I like 231 for lighter loads, but have found pressures can peak quickly at the upper end of 231 recipes.
AA#5, however, is really linear; you can even build recipes on a continuum using either case.
Jim H.
+1 for H110. I use it in 357 mag & 44 mag. I use 2400 as well but prefer the H110 a bit more.
For my 38 spcl light plinkers, I use Bullseye, Titegroup, Clays or Trail Boss and I think I have a few pounds of W231 floating around here someplace as well.
Cheers...
For my 38 spcl light plinkers, I use Bullseye, Titegroup, Clays or Trail Boss and I think I have a few pounds of W231 floating around here someplace as well.
Cheers...
H110 and W296 are volume density sensitive powders and need close to a full charge. If you load too light, leaving too much empty space inside the case, you can get a squib load with these powders where they don't ignite and leave you with a bullet in your barrel that could cause severe damage if you where to fire the next round and it went off successfully. Both powders have warnings in the manuals to not load below the minimum listed load OR not to reduce the maximum load below 3%. They also require the use of magnum primers.
Normally if you only have a maximum load listed, you should reduce it by 10% for your start load. Most manuals do the math for you and list a start load which is usually 10% below the maximum.
I'd suggest a less temperamental powder like 2400, Blue Dot or AA#9 for full house magnum loads in your Ruger or your Desert Eagle. With these powders you should use standard primers as they are easily ignited.
W231 or HP38 is a fast powder and as such the charges used are a lot smaller. This means you will get more rounds loaded per lb of powder BUT as the charges are smaller its easier to overlook a double charge. With fast powders use standard primers. These powders work well for the .38 spl and are a good choice if you want to load up .38's to use in your .357 mag. Lead bullets though are probably a better application for light target loads and less expensive to boot.
A medium burn rate powder like Unique, Universal (not Clays), or AA#5 would be more appropriate for medium velocity loads using jacketed bullets in the .357 mag. With them and other slower powders a double charge will usually overflow the case or fill it to the brim so a 2X charge is obvious.
Normally if you only have a maximum load listed, you should reduce it by 10% for your start load. Most manuals do the math for you and list a start load which is usually 10% below the maximum.
I'd suggest a less temperamental powder like 2400, Blue Dot or AA#9 for full house magnum loads in your Ruger or your Desert Eagle. With these powders you should use standard primers as they are easily ignited.
W231 or HP38 is a fast powder and as such the charges used are a lot smaller. This means you will get more rounds loaded per lb of powder BUT as the charges are smaller its easier to overlook a double charge. With fast powders use standard primers. These powders work well for the .38 spl and are a good choice if you want to load up .38's to use in your .357 mag. Lead bullets though are probably a better application for light target loads and less expensive to boot.
A medium burn rate powder like Unique, Universal (not Clays), or AA#5 would be more appropriate for medium velocity loads using jacketed bullets in the .357 mag. With them and other slower powders a double charge will usually overflow the case or fill it to the brim so a 2X charge is obvious.
Sport45
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Hodgdon Lil'Gun looks like another good choice if you're going to stick with 158gr or heavier bullets in magnum loadings. I don't have personal experience with it, but what I've read impressed me. I use W296 (same as H110) for magnum loads, but since I load a lot of 125gr bullets I've not tried Lil'Gun.
janobles14
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oh yeah..sport mentioned another great one in bluedot. i forgot that one.
Wow, lots of great powder choice info, I love it. I have heard that 296 doesn't like to be reduced much that's why I figured H110 might be better as I would reduce by 10% to start (is this too much) I guess if H110 is the same as 296 maybe I will give 2400 a shot. Good idea as to try Unique, universal or AA#5 as a double charge would be obvious. I have a new Lee classic turret but I know since this will be my first time I will be going at it ultra safe, weigh each charge until I feel comfortable enough to weigh every 5 to 10. I guess you can't ever be to causious. The only thing it will cost is time and I have enough of that to enjoy a hobby I have had for years. Thanx again guys.
ForneyRider
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I reload 41 Mag with W231(light loads) and H110(heavy, max loads).
I've read H110/W296 are the same, just different lot numbers.
H110 is big boom with lots of smoke, used in magnum pistols, oddball rifle cartridges requiring a slow pistol powder and some shotgun, 28ga. I think. it measures better now since the Lee Auto Disk is coated with graphite from powder residue. Initially, it was inconsistent.
W231 is fast powder that has lots of load data for lots of calibers. Handy to have around.
I went with Remington JSP and Nosler JHP. They were easier to deal with than lead or lead with gas check.
Once I get some of my 45 ACP lead bullets downrange, I will get a .410 mold. There are more selections in .357 caliber, and more sources for .357 gas checks.
I didn't crimp initially and had no issues even with max loads in my revolver. For testing purposes, I am crimping (roll) now.
I've read H110/W296 are the same, just different lot numbers.
H110 is big boom with lots of smoke, used in magnum pistols, oddball rifle cartridges requiring a slow pistol powder and some shotgun, 28ga. I think. it measures better now since the Lee Auto Disk is coated with graphite from powder residue. Initially, it was inconsistent.
W231 is fast powder that has lots of load data for lots of calibers. Handy to have around.
I went with Remington JSP and Nosler JHP. They were easier to deal with than lead or lead with gas check.
Once I get some of my 45 ACP lead bullets downrange, I will get a .410 mold. There are more selections in .357 caliber, and more sources for .357 gas checks.
I didn't crimp initially and had no issues even with max loads in my revolver. For testing purposes, I am crimping (roll) now.
454PB
Member
Steve C gave an excellent response, but I'd like to add that AAC#9 can also be very density sensitive. I can produce hangfires at will in my .454 Casull loads with it, and actually had a bullet stick in the barrel of my Ruger SRH .454 using WC820, which is nearly identical to AAC#9.
I've recently been experimenting with Hodgdon Lil'Gun, and find it to be a very good replacement for H-110/WW296/AAC#9/WC820 burn rate powders without the load density risks associated. In very general terms, reduce Lil'Gun by about 7% for the same velocity and pressure range generated by H-110/WW296.
I've recently been experimenting with Hodgdon Lil'Gun, and find it to be a very good replacement for H-110/WW296/AAC#9/WC820 burn rate powders without the load density risks associated. In very general terms, reduce Lil'Gun by about 7% for the same velocity and pressure range generated by H-110/WW296.
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