Tuning Recoil Spring on SR9--Need Help

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My Ruger SR9 works fine for me, but malfunctions when my 14 year old son, or 68 year old mom shoots it. Granted, the gun works 100% for ME, but I am concerned because I believe I may need to shoot when off balance, from an unusual position, with a tired or injured hand and so on.

The malfunction for them is always the same, the slide ejects the brass, scoops the next round half-into the chamber, then the slide stops just short of closing completely. I can duplicate this malfunction by hand cycling the slide slowly with the trigger held back in the just-fired position. Brass just dribbles out of the gun and goes only 2-3 feet. Sometimes the brass hops back right at the shooter. At the ranger Sunday, my son had his face burned by hot brass.

I BELIEVE the gun may be oversprung--that is, with a stiff recoil spring intended to handle LE +P and ++P 9mm loads. At this time, I don't plan to shoot those hot loads in my pistol, even for self defense.

Does too strong a recoil spring sound like the correct diagnosis?
Does anyone know how to "tune" the recoil spring on a captive guide rod?
Can I just stick in some tin snips and clip off one-coil-at-a-time and see how the gun runs?
Or, should I cut off one "captive" end and make the system a guide rod and separate recoil spring system?

As of Sept. 2008, Wolff doesn't make recoil springs for the Ruger SR9 yet. I haven't been able to reach the right person at Ruger to order a NEW recoil spring and guide rod to experiment on, and could use some help there too.

Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
Cutting coils will make it stiffer, not less stiff.

What type of ammo are you using? I found that there were these little problems like this with my gun when we used Monarch ammo but a regular standard pressure load like Winchester White Box was so much hotter than it works perfectly.

Too little recoil spring may cause failure to eject or feed by itself. Could also cause the slide to lock back prematurely. I'm pretty sure I'd leave it alone.
 
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