I shot my new G22 w/ KKM 357 SIG barrel for the first time using my first reloaded 357 SIGs (Rainier 124 FP’s and Unique powder). Everything went well. No jams. I’m a little disappointed in the accuracy. I assumed it was me just having an off day. To make sure, I switched to my HK USPC .40 (Berry 165 FP and Unique powder reloads) and tore up the center of the same target at 15 yards. Now I’m going to have to shoot 357 SIG in both pistols to determine if it is the rounds or the pistol that is less accurate. This may be a stupid question, but is it possible for the G22 to improve in accuracy as it gets broken in?
Two firsts today - 357 SIG
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caz223
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Nope, try factory win ammo.
Rainiers do not exhibit good accuracy in 357SIG for some reason, at least not for me.
357SIG (Esp one with the tight KKM barrel.) should outshoot .40, no problem. With good ammo.
Rainiers do not exhibit good accuracy in 357SIG for some reason, at least not for me.
357SIG (Esp one with the tight KKM barrel.) should outshoot .40, no problem. With good ammo.
caz223 said:
That's interesting to note - I've never tried them. I've only used Berry's 124 grain and the accuracy has been accepatable, but I'm not setting any records. My situation is reversed though in that I have a G31 and bought a KKM 40S&W bbl. Accuracty through that has been great with both factory and handloads.
Falconeer
Member
I've shot Speer 125grn TMJs & Montana Gold 125grn FMJs with Power Pistol in 357 Sig and been happy with the accuracy.
You're shooting a new barrel in your gun, the gun and the barrel probobly need to break each other in.
My new 17L would throw about 1 in 5 shots 6 inches high at 25 yards untill the breachface and barrel broke in.
Try applying a small amount of grease on the lockup surfaces during the first few hundred rounds. I did that with my 17L and every time I renewed the grease, it would shoot like a laser gun.
It took about 500 rounds to break mine in.
My new 17L would throw about 1 in 5 shots 6 inches high at 25 yards untill the breachface and barrel broke in.
Try applying a small amount of grease on the lockup surfaces during the first few hundred rounds. I did that with my 17L and every time I renewed the grease, it would shoot like a laser gun.
It took about 500 rounds to break mine in.
The plating on Rainier bullets is really thin. Probably experiencing plating separation. IF you're crimping the least bit too tightly, particularly if you're using a roll crimp die without the benefit of a bullet that's cannelured, then you're definitely deforming the bullet.
Rockstar - interesting point. I am crimping them a bit tight to prevent setback. I pulled a couple of shells apart after crimping and there was a slight crease in the projectile, but I didn't think anything of it. I'll back off the crimp a thousandth or so and see if this helps.
I'll also try the grease like PO2Hammer suggests and see if it helps.
thanks guys.
I'll also try the grease like PO2Hammer suggests and see if it helps.
thanks guys.
Falconeer
Member
How to crimp??
This brings up a question I've had with reloading the 357 Sig. I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die as a final step. However, I've never been able to find out just what a 'good' crimp is? Essentially I have the crimp set so I see a grove on the neck of the case, and then load a few rounds from the magazine into my P239. I measure OAL before and after bringing the pistol into battery. I go for as low a change in OAL as possible. Is it possible to overcrimp FMJs? What is a objective way to measure crimp, and what should it be?
This brings up a question I've had with reloading the 357 Sig. I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die as a final step. However, I've never been able to find out just what a 'good' crimp is? Essentially I have the crimp set so I see a grove on the neck of the case, and then load a few rounds from the magazine into my P239. I measure OAL before and after bringing the pistol into battery. I go for as low a change in OAL as possible. Is it possible to overcrimp FMJs? What is a objective way to measure crimp, and what should it be?
I've only loaded about 2500 of the SIGs using the factory crimp die, but I haven't had a hint of setback. I simply set it until I feel a little bump at the top of the stroke to where I know the die has sqeezed the neck. Even a little prevents me from being able to push the bullet in with all the might I can muster in pushing it aginst the front of the bench. I'm also using 40S&W cases which have a little shorter neck.
I realize that is not a real world test, but as mentioned before, it seems to be enough because I've never had any setback and have also discovered that my shot to shot velocity deviation was reduced.
I realize that is not a real world test, but as mentioned before, it seems to be enough because I've never had any setback and have also discovered that my shot to shot velocity deviation was reduced.
Falconeer
Member
Thanks for the info! I may be overcrimping these rounds.Uncle Don said:
Have you ever loaded your rounds and done before/after measurements?Falconeer said:Thanks for the info! I may be overcrimping these rounds.
No, I've not measured them because they have all fed well and drop easily into the chamber of my G31.
snuffy
Member
coincidence?
I just did the same conversion to my #22 glock! I sent for some once fired brass from Midway, 500 grade 3 nickel plated and 500 grade 1 brass. I started out with the nickel using a new set of Hornady dies. I didn't get a lee factory crimp die at first, but now have one.
I ferst used blu-dot for a few test loads BEFORE the barrel arrived. They dropped right in the chamber and the barrel dropped right in my well used 22/40s&w. I only had made up 20 of the blu-dot loads, so I stopped to get some rem 125 fmj factory loads,(green box).
Since then, I have tried some loads with power pistol and a surplus powder, WC 820. The 820 is a slightly fast H-110 or w-296 burn rate. I hoped it would be usefull for the sig. They went BANG but even on a brite winter day, the muzzel flash was quite impressive! Accuracy was quite good as far as group size goes. Here's some of the groups at 25 yds.
Here's the rem factory loads, not at all impressive!
Here's the one load I tried with power pistol. 8.0 grains behind the Hornady 125 HAP bullet.
Here's the WC-820 load, 11.7 grains is the starting load for AA#9, it was the most accurate of any I tried. These were using the 124 Horn xtp bullets.It was also quite dirty, leaving some unburned powder around the chamber/slide area. I may try this powder again with some 147 grainers. it should work better for those!
All the reloads were crimped using the lee FCD. I couldn't tell by looking at the mouth of the case if I was getting a good crimp. So I loaded a dummy, sized case with no powder or primer and crimped it. Then I pulled the bullet with my knetic puller to look at the bullet with a 10X magnifier. A nice ring was apparent around the bullet.
I'm using reloader Fred's procedure of treating the 357 sig as if it were a rifle round. We DON'T bell the mouth of a rifle round to load jacketed bullets. Fred uses a chamfer tool and simply seats the bullet. it works just fine in the Hornady dies with their sliding seating chamber.
I just did the same conversion to my #22 glock! I sent for some once fired brass from Midway, 500 grade 3 nickel plated and 500 grade 1 brass. I started out with the nickel using a new set of Hornady dies. I didn't get a lee factory crimp die at first, but now have one.
I ferst used blu-dot for a few test loads BEFORE the barrel arrived. They dropped right in the chamber and the barrel dropped right in my well used 22/40s&w. I only had made up 20 of the blu-dot loads, so I stopped to get some rem 125 fmj factory loads,(green box).
Since then, I have tried some loads with power pistol and a surplus powder, WC 820. The 820 is a slightly fast H-110 or w-296 burn rate. I hoped it would be usefull for the sig. They went BANG but even on a brite winter day, the muzzel flash was quite impressive!
Accuracy was quite good as far as group size goes. Here's some of the groups at 25 yds.Here's the rem factory loads, not at all impressive!
Here's the one load I tried with power pistol. 8.0 grains behind the Hornady 125 HAP bullet.
Here's the WC-820 load, 11.7 grains is the starting load for AA#9, it was the most accurate of any I tried. These were using the 124 Horn xtp bullets.It was also quite dirty, leaving some unburned powder around the chamber/slide area. I may try this powder again with some 147 grainers. it should work better for those!
All the reloads were crimped using the lee FCD. I couldn't tell by looking at the mouth of the case if I was getting a good crimp. So I loaded a dummy, sized case with no powder or primer and crimped it. Then I pulled the bullet with my knetic puller to look at the bullet with a 10X magnifier. A nice ring was apparent around the bullet.
I'm using reloader Fred's procedure of treating the 357 sig as if it were a rifle round. We DON'T bell the mouth of a rifle round to load jacketed bullets. Fred uses a chamfer tool and simply seats the bullet. it works just fine in the Hornady dies with their sliding seating chamber.
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