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Uberti 58 Remmy problem.

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jon_in_wv

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I have a Uberti 58 Remington I bought a few months ago. The last two trips to the range I noticed the hammer would fall but the primer would not pop. If I restruck it, it would go off fine on the second try. Also, when I cleaned it i noticed the hammer is slightly mushroomed and there is a distinct circle from the nipple in the hammer. I would like to upgrade this thing for some more serious shooting. I was going to order some better nipples but I think I might need a stronger hammer too. Do you guys have any idea what the problem is or what migth be a good solution for me? I really like my 58 and its accurate as all get out.
 
Bad hammer?

Gunsmith time. He should be able to drop a new one in and make sure it all works good. You apparently like the weapon enough to care.

Good luck!
 
Check your caps....this will happen if the caps are not seated properly or tight against the nipple, you pull the trigger, nothing happens, you go around a 2nd time and pow, pow pow they go off.

CCI #10's are notorious for this. Give Remmington #10's a try and you may save your self a trip to the gunsmith.
 
Some of you missed the clue.
the hammer is slightly mushroomed and there is a distinct circle from the nipple in the hammer.
Click to expand...
The hammer face is deformed. New nipples or a stronger mainspring won't solve that, and improperly seated caps didn't cause it.

The surface hardening on the face of the hammer is either incomplete or missing altogether. You can either harden the hammer with Kasnite or just install a new hammer, a 5 minute job. Since the hammer face is already damaged I wouldn't bother with the Kasenite.
 
mykeal is right.Reface the hammer,and reharden..or replace with a new one from VTI Gunparts.Be sure to specify the maker as they for the most part do not interchange.
 
there is a distinct circle from the nipple in the hammer
Click to expand...

All five of my Ubertis have this, from the factory. It's not from the nipple, it's machined there intentionally.

If you're pounding the nipples hard enough to indent the hammer, the nipples will be mushroomed, too.
 
Both my Uberti hammer faces have an outline of the nipple on them and they perform flawlessly. You may just need a little more mainspring tension. Just turn the little screw on the lower front of the grip a half of a turn or two. I have mine all backed out to about 3/4 of a turn of contact with the mainspring. Yours may need torquing a little deeper. Take off the grips to see when the screw touches the spring. You actually can feel when the screw is bearing on the spring by the increased resistance. If the tension screw is turned all the way in and still duds occur then you either need a stronger mainspring or your caps are too small and are needing the first blow to seat then and the second blow to set them off. Also mark one of your chambers with a dot of fingernail polish on the outside and call that one #6. Then when you get a dud, note (write it down) which cylinder is acting up. That way you can study that nipple and see if it is different than the rest. Often times I find that only one nipple/chamber is the culprit. Sometimes it's a low nipple that needs shimming out a bit. Ask me and I'll tell you how I shim nipples. I'd replace the nipples and spring before I'd mess with a new hammer.
 
Thanks. I guess I'll try tightening up the mainspring first and see how that goes. The sides of the hammer don't seem to be contacting the frame so I don't think its binding at all. I've only fired it about thee dozen times and I'm guilty of dry firing it about a dozen more times. I'll probably get a new hammer eventually if that doesn't take care of it. Is there a source for an upgraded part? It seems with the popularity of CAS there would be a few upgrade parts out there for this thing. I've found better nipples but what about other parts?
 
The hammer should not hit the nipple at all. You should have 2-3 thousandth clearance between the nipple and face of the hammer when the hammer is down.
Click to expand...
Nice theory. How many replica percussion revolvers are actually made that way? How many replica percussion revolver owners know how to first, accurately measure, and then control, that dimension consistently? Finally, what is the tolerance on the height of the nipple from the top of the cone to the thread seating surface across the different manufacturers and even within a given manufacturer's part number?
 
Here is what I did with my 1858 Pietta Remmie.

First I switched to Remington #10 caps. They fit nice and easy on the nipple and for the most part stayed on about 80% of the time. Still Not good enough for me:fire:

So I did the unthinkable. I dry fired on each nipple twice and then put on a nipple and live fired several times to see how they stayed on. That cut down the falling off in half.

Then I ID'd the offending nipple or nipples and dry fired the offenders twice more and elminated the problem all togeather.

In essesnce what I did was mushroom each of the nipples just enough so that Remmie #10's would fit snug and not fall off.
 
cap miss fire

my uberti 58 did the same thing i changed too #11 caps
tightened my main spring seemed to solve 99 % of the problem
i think the nipple is the cause when i get a chance I'm going to replace mine maybe they are not sharp enough.
Also the hammer should were in the more you shoot the gun
it may have machine Marks in it that might hang it up a little
some were i read that you might want to take it apart and stone it a little to smooth it out or take it to A gunsmith and have them do it
PM VARGO
 
Either have the hammer reshaped and tempered up or buy a new hammer. (Or just throw the undependable sonofabitch away and call Cabela's and buy yourself a good Pietta) (If you live where and how I have lived most of my life your gun better work, first time and every time) Uberti make's a good Cattleman's Carbine, matches up with the '58--a good 1849 Colt Pocket .31--and a real damn good Walker. If you need a good Remington 1858 New Model Army .44 then go with Pietta. They shoot real damn good right out of the box and that's before you get a new barrel, parts polished and specially hardened, the trigger pull set and so forth and so on.
Please excuse my French. My foot hurts..Best of luck..Stan..
 
The hammer should not hit the nipple at all
Click to expand...
Nice theory. How many replica percussion revolvers are actually made that way?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure the Ruger Old Army is made that way. Intentionally, right out of the box, anyhoo.
 
Today I took apart my Remmy for a little inpection and I tightened up the mainspring. I also used a file to take a little of the left side of the hammer off where it was slightly mushroomed. I tell you what, that hammer is HARD. I could barely make a scratch with my file. At the range I fired 6 rounds and no misfires at all. hardly conclusive but it was about 20 degrees and it was snowing and blowing so I was a bit cold by the time I shot my Remmy.
 
Quote:
The hammer should not hit the nipple at all

I'm pretty sure the Ruger Old Army is made that way. Intentionally, right out of the box, anyhoo
Click to expand...

Yes Sir. Every ROA I have owned or worked on have been very well made.


Quote:
The hammer should not hit the nipple at all. You should have 2-3 thousandth clearance between the nipple and face of the hammer when the hammer is down.

Nice theory. How many replica percussion revolvers are actually made that way? How many replica percussion revolver owners know how to first, accurately measure, and then control, that dimension consistently? Finally, what is the tolerance on the height of the nipple from the top of the cone to the thread seating surface across the different manufacturers and even within a given manufacturer's part number
Click to expand...


Not theory, fact. The majority of my revolvers have hammer/nipple clearance out of the box. 1858's always seem to be the exception. All three of mine needed work, Pietta, FIE and Uberti. The Pietta had poor nipple height consistency. The easiest fix is the shorten the nipple, then only remove one at a time. You could re-machine the nipple seats if you had the equipment. I had to do that one the Pietta, it had two nipples that stood up about .015-.020 higher than the rest. Plus Pietta nipples vary in height and they are soft, solution, replace them.
 
Build a shim set from brass stock.

I don't 'need to know' what the "clearance" is between the hammer face and nipple. If the hammer clears the nipple and well fire the cap I'm happy.
 
Besides the possible slight mushrooming of soft factory nipples, why is having nipple clearance important?

Sidelock percussion guns don't usually have any nipple clearance and unless the nipple is defective, they seem to have great longevity and survive just fine.
Revolver hammers also produce comparatively less force on impact when striking the nipple.
 
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