I'm hoping someone can tell me if this is normal or if my gun has a problem. I recently picked up a used Uberti Walker Colt from a local shop. I haven't shot it yet, but have taken it apart to clean and understand the inner workings. My question has to do with the tightness of fit of the wedge to barrel and basepin. Without the little wedge screw to hold in the wedge, I can slide the wedge all the way in easily. Also, with the wedge all the way inserted, there is still a small amount of play between the barrel and frame if I grab them and pull them apart. Is it normal for the wedge to go in all the way and still allow some play? I was under the impression that the wedge would tighten up and make everything tight with each other before going in all the way. Hope this make sense. Any input appreciated. I'm new to these cap and ball guns.
Uberti Walker Question - Wedge Tightness
- Thread starter batex
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Fingers McGee
Member
I'll second Mykeals assessment.
'Scuse me while I whip this out. . .
- - - The ol' caliper, I mean. What did you think?
Okay.... lets see here, width-wise, I got 0.576 on the skinny end, .637 on the fat end, and about .612 right in the middle of my wedge. That oughta tell you if yours is worn or not. And it's 1.360 long, just to check if yours maybe isn't an original Uberti wedge.
- - - The ol' caliper, I mean. What did you think?
Okay.... lets see here, width-wise, I got 0.576 on the skinny end, .637 on the fat end, and about .612 right in the middle of my wedge. That oughta tell you if yours is worn or not. And it's 1.360 long, just to check if yours maybe isn't an original Uberti wedge.
junkman_01
member
Check the arbor itself for looseness in the frame too.
Thanks for the responses. I should have mentioned that I've already purchased a new uberti replacement wedge from Numrich. Same problem...If it weren't for the little spring in the wedge, it would slide all the way in and out without effort. I guess this means that the slot in the base pin is cut too large? By my best estimation, the "gap" is about 0.025 inches.
I'm thinkin' I have 3 options:
1- Make a shim from brass or steel to insert with the wedge to make things tight.
2 - Have a bead welded to build up the width of the wedge, file to make fit.
3 - Have a small weld/bead put in the basepin slot to fill the gap.
Am I on track here? My choice would be # 1 above since I don't weld.
What am I missing?
I'm thinkin' I have 3 options:
1- Make a shim from brass or steel to insert with the wedge to make things tight.
2 - Have a bead welded to build up the width of the wedge, file to make fit.
3 - Have a small weld/bead put in the basepin slot to fill the gap.
Am I on track here? My choice would be # 1 above since I don't weld.
What am I missing?
72coupe
Member
Be careful, I managed to break the cylinder arbor in my 2nd Model Dragoon with an over sized wedge that I made back in 1968.
Over a 30 day period of almost continuous shooting I shot it and an 1860 Army loose.
Over a 30 day period of almost continuous shooting I shot it and an 1860 Army loose.
Smokin'Joe
Member
Batex, your #1 suggestion is right on target. I made a brass shim for my .44 cal brass frame for the same reason. The intention was to simply measure the thickness required to widen the wedge. But to my surprise the force of driving in the wedge expanded the brass shim making it tight in the arbor slot. I have put many rounds through this gun with no issues.
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Smokin'Joe
Member
Shims can be of brass or copper. A copper penny can be formed into a good shim for the arbor.
Dudemeister
Member
I have a nearly identical problem with my 1860 Army fluted. When the retainer screw is in place, I have some play in the barrel. To get rid of it, I can take the screw out, and push the wedge in further, which takes care of the wiggle, and the barrel is nice and tight. However, the wedge itself can still be pushed out fairly easily.
This is not used gun, in fact it's never been fired, and I'm afraid the wedge will come loose after a couple of shots.
On my gun, it looks like the slot in the barrel was either cut too wide or too far back. Alternately, the slot in the arbor may also be cut too far forward.
What about adding some material to the inside of the wedge slot at the front. Any suggestions as to what kind of material and how to attach it (weld, solder glue, etc). I don't have a welding torch, so other options would be helpful.
This is not used gun, in fact it's never been fired, and I'm afraid the wedge will come loose after a couple of shots.
On my gun, it looks like the slot in the barrel was either cut too wide or too far back. Alternately, the slot in the arbor may also be cut too far forward.
What about adding some material to the inside of the wedge slot at the front. Any suggestions as to what kind of material and how to attach it (weld, solder glue, etc). I don't have a welding torch, so other options would be helpful.
Smokin'Joe
Member
Dude, that's where the brass or copper shim goes. I have a shim on two of my guns; a Wells Fargo .31 cal and a brass frame .44 cal. The wedge expands the softer shim material to lock it in place. Works great on both guns.
junkman_01
member
You could also drill and tap for a small set screw in the end of the arbor so it comes through to the slot and could be used as an adjustment screw.
Smokin'Joe
Member
Brass Arbor Shim
Photo shows my ASM Wells Fargo arbor with a brass shim inserted.
Photo shows my ASM Wells Fargo arbor with a brass shim inserted.
Dudemeister
Member
That' a nifty idea. If i hadn't already gone ahead with the shim, I probably would have done that.
As it stands I did the shim mod. Here it is.
Smokin'Joe
Member
Dude, Looks like you did a good job with the shim and an even better job than me with your photography. Looks like you did the Penny Mod. Cheapest mod ever!
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Dudemeister
Member
Yes, that was a cheap mod, but I can barely feel my fingers after all the filing I did for proper fit.
FreddyKruger
Member
I think i need to do this to mine. i was told my arbor was too short, i couldnt see how that would be my problem, this looks more like it.
now... we dont have copper pennies over here... my have to use an old 1c or 2c coin.
now... we dont have copper pennies over here... my have to use an old 1c or 2c coin.
Smokin'Joe
Member
Freddy, no copper pennies no problem. Just use one of those Australian gold coins you guys have. Will work great!
Dudemeister
Member
+10
ak-kev
Member
I had never thought of the shim idea but me being a plumber I just soldered that area up a little and filed it to fit. Nice and tight again. I just wonder whats wearing? The wedge, arbor slot, barrel assembly, and will it continue??
Smokin'Joe
Member
ak-kev Maybe it's the solder that's wearing due to its soft nature. You could try a brass shim. Maybe even solder it in place and let us know how that works.
ak-kev
Member
Yea, thats a good idea Joe. Im picking up some more map gas bottles tomorrow anyway.
What keeps yours in place? Do you cut them in a shape of a wedge so they dont move when you push the wedge in?
What keeps yours in place? Do you cut them in a shape of a wedge so they dont move when you push the wedge in?
Smokin'Joe
Member
ak-kev, Just the force of driving in the wedge expanded the brass shim making it tight in the arbor slot. I guess this would be called a friction fit. I'd like to know if soldering a shim in place works well.
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