Unique Powder, your measuring techniques

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Love the powder hate the measurability. Since my favorite revolver powders such such as 231 , clays and true blue are getting hard to find and I have plenty of Unique I figured I would use it in my favorite calibers, 38S&W, 38Spl and .357mag. (all lead). I always loaded .357mag with Unique using lead bullets and you can afford to be off a little on the measurements without problems so I throw from a Redding B3 and I'm satisfied. But now using a Redding B3 throwing Unique for an old model 10 x-ring eraser in 38S&W has me scaling each measure to be very accurate so I don't damage the gun. Yes some will say a model 10 can handle a variance but I just don't like it. The second problem is keeping the bullet at 650ish FPS as I'm using a .359 HBWC in Brinell 10.
So with all that blah, blah, blah... how do you measure Unique to a more accurate throw as to avoid scaling each round? I have tried all the common methods of double tapping the lever, tapping the side of the tube, adjusted the micro so it will cut less or more but I'm still throwing 3.1, 2.8, 3.4, 3.0 and it's a bummer.
 
You need to learn the tap dance with the handle to settle the powder. Like tap the handle up 3 times before you go down. What ever you do is be consistent. Normally you can stay in the ±0.1gr deviation doing this. So if your not at the top end you should be fine. The use of a baffle helps to.

I no longer use Unique due to I load on a progressive and it does not play well for me.
 
My Lee PPM drops Unique quite well. Good enough for me, anyway. My 2.9 gr charge for .38 is consistent from 2.8 to 3.1. I've developed a very consistent throw process which is, I believe, the key to consistent throws with any measuring device..
 
My Lee PPM drops Unique quite well. Good enough for me, anyway. My 2.9 gr charge for .38 is consistent from 2.8 to 3.1. I've developed a very consistent throw process which is, I believe, the key to consistent throws with any measuring device..
This has been my experience as well. For me, it does have issues with anything lower than about 3 grains. Anything over 3 grains rarely gives me variances greater that +-.1
 
My measuring technique for Unique is to use Universal*.

*There are other equally useful powders, of course: WSF, Power Pistol, etc., and some of them may meter better than Unique.
 
I keep my Redding 10X meter in the up (dump) position between charges, instead of in the down position. Then a smooth, consistent down and back up stroke. Now I no longer get those occasional +.3 or +.4 grain charges of Unique.

Thanks to the gent who suggested that to me in an earlier thread.
 
i have to agree that with smaller charges (like for the .32 ACP I just did 100 rounds with Unique for...) the problems become greater. With larger changes for say the .357 mag. small variations are acceptable and less volatile.

That said, I tried all the techniques and a variety of measures/methods and have settled back on weighing each charge. I cannot tolerate changes that are not within <.1 gr. and the only way I have been able to do that is to weigh each and every charge. It's a pain...but I love my Unique so it's worth it.

I think a lot of whether or not one can get on with Unique in a measure depends on the calibers you are loading and how big/hot the charge is. I load a lot of .32 and 9mm and <.1 gr. charge variations are absolutely necessary for my mindset. If one can tolerate .1 gr - .3 gr variations safely then one will find measures just fine.

VooDoo
 
I keep my Redding 10X meter in the up (dump) position between charges, instead of in the down position. Then a smooth, consistent down and back up stroke. Now I no longer get those occasional +.3 or +.4 grain charges of Unique.

Thanks to the gent who suggested that to me in an earlier thread.
This sounds too good to be true. I cannot wait to try it. Thank you...
 
Run 15+ charges through it before checking weights, then use a smooth repeatable stroke with a light consistent tap at each end.
 
I'm using a Redding #3 measure with a pistol micrometer. I also added a baffle in the powder tube. That, and consistent technique keeps the variation acceptable for 45ACP.
 
I use an RCBS Uniflow powder dispenser and have found that it works great with Unique as long as I keep the rifle barrel in place instead of the pistol barrel. It's larger orifice really helps with large flake powders. Mine came with both barrels some 35 years ago nowadays rock chucker packages only come with the pistol barrel so you may have to purchase it separately.
 
I use a Redding 10-X for handgun including Unique. I have a baffle in the measure and I try to minimize vibrations put into the measure when throwing charges. I will throw 20-25 charges after first filling the measure before weighing a charge and dialing in the powder measure.

Also, my powder measure sits on a free standing floor stand separate from the press. Keeps vibrations from the press getting into the powder measure and settling the powder column.

Every time I weigh a check charge, it is within 0.1 grain.

The key to consistent charges is to do it the same way every time.

Before I had the 10-X, I used an RCBS Little Dandy and it was consistent as well although I did more tapping with the Little Dandy. The main reason I changed was the inflexibility of the Little Dandy and its rotors. I was getting into charge weights that were in between rotors.

Finally, I had a Lee Perfect powder measure for a while and could never get it to work right regardless of the powder I used. Lots of folks use it successfully though.
 
I load on a progressive press, a Dillon 550B and use Trailboss which is a very bulky powder and didn't meter well with small charges like 3.0 grains. That was untill a friend told me what he used when loading light charges of Clays. Try attaching a simple fish aquarium air pump to the powder hopper using some clear packing tape. The little vibration caused by the pump when plugged in, keeps the powder from bridging, and helps keeps a steady flow going. I've had very good luck with this, even going down to 2.5 grains, so I don't see why it wouldn't work for Unique. A fish pump at Wal-Mart costs around 8-10 dollars, so if it doesn't work for you, pack it up in the box and take it back. Even if you don't your only out a few bucks, but if it works for you, problem solved. Good Luck, LM
 
Use a Lyman 55 as my only powder. It works fine with all the powders that I have reloaded with including Unique.
 
Most powder measures come with a "universal" powder tube set up that usually will allow as low as 10 gr and up to 70gr or more of accurate measure. The small rifle/universal drop tubes work fine for .357 mag loads using 10 or more grains of slower powder. Unique usually only takes 4.5 to 7.0 grs for .38 spl and magnum loads and at sub 10gr loads you really need the to use this Redding pistol metering set-up though note it will not fit Redding 3BR Powder Measure. With it you can get accurate measurements from 1 gr to maybe 20 gr depending upon the powder density.

Your Redding B3 is a good measure but its universal drop tube and rotor set up is only accurate down to 5.0gr and up to 110gr according to the sales info.

I have 2 Hornady powder measures, one on the LNL progressive and the other is a stand alone set up for use with the single stage press. Unique and other flake powders from Alliant meter well from my Hornady measures with the pistol inserts often with no measurable variation between throws depending upon how settled the powder is. I usually run about 1/2 dozen powder drops and measure them on the scale after filling the reservoir. When the powder measure begins to throw +/- .1 gr less between drops then loading starts.

If you want consistent drops you do have to operate the measure or the press the same way each time. I don't find any need to bang on the powder measure, esp. on the progressive as it shakes up the measure with all the things going on when loading and that keeps the powder settled.
 
Run 15+ charges through it before checking weights, then use a smooth repeatable stroke with a light consistent tap at each end.


I do this as well.
Pick a charge in the middle of the data so if you're off .01 or .02 either way, you're still within the limits.

Just a word of advice, if you're having problems with Unique, don't ever buy any 700X. :)
 
Use a load that has an ability to digest -.2 to +.2, and carry on.

If you can't get your powder measure to stay as least as consistent as that, clean it, graphite it, and try again.

My lee measure throws -.1 to +.1, as other have mentioned. My dillion is about the same, but I use the .2 window on it, and only for plinkin stuff- I set it at 5.8 for 45 ACP, and nary a problem in sight.

If you still can't, its either your stroke, or you need a new powder measure.
 
Use a load that has an ability to digest -.2 to +.2, and carry on.

If you can't get your powder measure to stay as least as consistent as that, clean it, graphite it, and try again.

My lee measure throws -.1 to +.1, as other have mentioned. My dillion is about the same, but I use the .2 window on it, and only for plinkin stuff- I set it at 5.8 for 45 ACP, and nary a problem in sight.

If you still can't, its either your stroke, or you need a new powder measure.
Oh, I know this. I was just looking for others techniques in hopes of finding something new which i did. I find some of these methods worth a shot and will try them. Sure I can move one with another load but for now I have no 231, hp38, or my favorite true blue for 38S&W but I do have 16 lbs of Unique I need to burn up. Just looking for others techniques that's all. Plus the accuracy goal out of that model 10 is around 650 fps and a +.2 will knock it off a bit.
 
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I put the base of my redding in the lathe and polished the inside to a very smooth finish and that seemed to help( also a tip from a previous post).
 
I load all my pistol cartridges on a Dillion and all of the powder is dumped without weighing after the powder bar is set. I have conducted chronograph tests against AA#5, a ball powder, which throws in the tenth of a grain, and the extreme spread differences between thrown Unique and thrown ball are insignificant. Don't worry about it, just toss and load.
 
Unique in the Uniflow? No problem to +/- 0.1 grn.

Keep it full,
Use a baffle
Use a small micrometer screw
Be very consistent in your motion
Wear your uniflow in a bit.

I find that 20 or 30 thousand cycles really wears in the uniflow and it delivers great results. Just keep after it an you will have no problems.
 
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