Used target revolvers and triggers that are too good

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 26, 2002
Messages
5,687
Location
Delaware home of tax free shopping
Once again I find myself actually in need of heavier springs in a target revolver I have bought used.

In an attempt to get the lightest trigger pull the previous owner put reduced springs in my model 14.
Cleaned out any old grease (it was clean) and lubed it with CLP. I loaded up some .38 spl. with federal primers. The 14 shoots great, but I get the occasional click in DA or SA. Springs are too light for reliable ignition.

How many folks have found it necessary to put heavier springs in a used Smith Revolver?
 
I picked up a used 625 earlier this year and that was the first thing the guy in the shop said when he handed it to me, "check out that trigger!". It was very nice, light, and smooth. A little suspiciously too light. I still took it, as the price was right.

I took it out when I got home and I was getting 2-3 light strikes each cylinder. Popped the grips off, and you could /see the strain screw was backed way out. Screwed it in tight, and it hasnt skipped a beat since.

I dont know if they were shooting with it like that, or if they backed that screw out to make it seem like it was something else when it was traded. Im pretty sure it wasnt the shop owner, as I know him.

With the screw turned all the way in, its still got that nice S&W DA trigger, just more in line with what Im used to and prefer. I usually dont mess with the factory triggers on anything.
 
You aren’t by yourself. I have purchased used Smiths that have had the same problem that you experienced. Often, the strain screw has been loosened or shortened which can be easily corrected. The Wilson mainsprings seem to work fine in most centerfire revolvers. The worse offender that I have had is a model 17 which had an altered mainspring and cut rebound spring resulting in light strikes and a slow trigger reset. S&W provided the new springs and she works perfectly.
 
A few years back I bought a model 25-2. It had an incredible trigger!

But it would not set off half the winchester primed rounds. The mainspring had been filed down by about 50% and the rebound spring had been clipped short.

I ended up replacing both with wolf reduced springs.
 
Wolff GunSprings sells a wide range of S&W springs. Not a big fan of their reduced power hammer springs. They usually don’t work well with primers that are traditionally hard like Winchester for example. I never replace the hammer spring in a Smith. I usually will replace the spring in the rebound slide ( trigger return spring ) with a 12 or 13 pound spring. The single action trigger pull is very good and I experience no reliability issues.
 
I love light triggers and silky-smooth actions in Smith revolvers. My 1982 model 686 has a 2.3# S/A and 6.5# D/A pull, and far and away the best action of any revolver I've ever held, including a few Pythons. My 586 and 67 both have nice triggers and actions, but I've not lightened them as much as the 686, and they also aren't quite as smooth. There may be some hard primers out there that the 686 wouldn't light off reliably, but who cares if there are some hard primers out there somewhere? I don't shoot with hard primers, so it doesn't matter. I've not had an issue with the Federal primers I use for reloading, or the factory ammo that I've shot (Winchester, Remington, Federal, and some GECO in .38 Special).
 
"I picked up a used 625 earlier this year and that was the first thing the guy in the shop said when he handed it to me, 'Check out that trigger!' It was very nice, light, and smooth. A little suspiciously too light. I still took it, as the price was right. I took it out when I got home and I was getting 2-3 light strikes each cylinder."


I had a similar thing happen earlier this year with a S&W 642. One or two cartridges would fail to ignite out of every cylinder. I tried different kinds of ammo - it didn't matter. I replaced the mainspring, but there was only a bit of improvement. Recently I bought a kit from Apex that had a new mainspring, trigger spring, firing pin, and firing spring pin. After replacing all of that, the revolver finally feels correct to me. When my health and the weather permit, I will test it at the range soon. I'm thinking it will finally work properly. It was annoying, but not expensive. The kit was something like $20 shipped.

View media item 2440
 
I reload all of my center fire ammo, and have done so for over 20 years.

My experience with primers is that Federal are the softest
Then softest to hardest:
Federal
Winchester
CCI
Russian / Wolf
Military (US)

With the magnum being slightly harder than standard for each brand.
This holds true for rifle primers as well.
 
A Wolff standard power mainspring will restore reliability and still give a pretty good DA trigger pull.
 
I consider CCI the gold standard and while some are happy with "reliable with federal" guns I prefer "reliable" guns. I never lighten anything.
 
My 686 Competitor won’t fire reliably in DA, hitch is hilariously aggravating and stupid for a PC competition gun. I’ve even sent it to the factory once for this issue. Now I’ve even shimmed the strain screw with the cup of a spent primer.

Still not 100%.

I bought mine new when they were released like 6 or 7 years ago.
 
My 686 Competitor won’t fire reliably in DA, hitch is hilariously aggravating and stupid for a PC competition gun. I’ve even sent it to the factory once for this issue. Now I’ve even shimmed the strain screw with the cup of a spent primer.

Still not 100%.

I bought mine new when they were released like 6 or 7 years ago.


Odd, my 686 Competitor touches everything off. Heck I use s&b sr primers for my 357 target loads for that competitor.
 
I bought a 14-5 that was that way, trigger was just too light. It set off CCI primers just fine, but was too easy to shoot accidentally.
a standard full power hammer spring and the 12 lb return spring seem to do the job pretty well for me.
Me too.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top