Want to borrow: .50BMG GO/NO-GO gauges

[sota]

Hopefully this is in the right place to ask.
I could use a set of Go/NO-GO gauges for my .50BMG rifle, to check head spacing. Since I only need to use them once, I was wondering if anyone near the NJ 07922 area code had them that I could borrow, or if there's others farther away that might be willing to lend a hand.

Thanks!

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

So, to be clear, you need head-space/timing, correct?

If that's the case and you don't find closer, I'll see if I can find one of my sets that is not a keychain just now.

Also: "SOTA".... Like M.I. by chance?

Todd.

 

[lysanderxiii]

Hopefully this is in the right place to ask.
I could use a set of Go/NO-GO gauges for my .50BMG rifle, to check head spacing. Since I only need to use them once, I was wondering if anyone near the NJ 07922 area code had them that I could borrow, or if there's others farther away that might be willing to lend a hand.

Thanks!

Use a feeler gage set from the car parts store.

0.2065 -0.0005" NO-GO
0.0202 -0.0005" GO

For timing use 0.022 -.002"

You can use them to gap your plugs after you set-up the .50.....

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

Use a feeler gage set from the car parts store.

0.2065 -0.0005" NO-GO
0.0202 -0.0005" GO

For timing use 0.022 -.002"

You can use them to gap your plugs after you set-up the .50.....

The problem is that by the time you build gages up to .206, the margin of cumulative error is large and even if you confirm with a micrometer, compression is a variable.

A decent machinist will gin up a .206 / .202 block as well as a .118 timing gage in short order though future wear on a non-hardened, non-chromed piece needs to be confirmed fairly often.

In the end, you're quite right, it's about the numbers more than the tool.

Todd.

 

[sota]

I don't see how feelers or the M2 gauge would work on a bolt action rifle.
Maybe I needed to mention that in my original post. Sorry.

 

[lysanderxiii]

The problem is that by the time you build gages up to .206, the margin of cumulative error is large and even if you confirm with a micrometer, compression is a variable.

A decent machinist will gin up a .206 / .202 block as well as a .118 timing gage in short order though future wear on a non-hardened, non-chromed piece needs to be confirmed fairly often.

In the end, you're quite right, it's about the numbers more than the tool.

Todd.

It worked fine when I was in the Army. We always had more guns than gages, but a lot of tool boxes with feeler gages.

 

[Mk-211]

Call around to local gun smith's and see if they have a set and will check your rifle for you.

Better to have someone that knows what they're doing and might cost you a couple bucks to get it done right.

If you can't find someone, let me know and I'll ask around. I shoot with enough guys that own .50's and have built their own. One of them might have a set that I can borrow.