Wanting some basic tools

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Smaug

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I don't want to get into full-on gunsmithing, but something that will let me:

  1. take guns down for the occasional full cleaning, and
  2. replacing pistol sights

I think for the first item, I just need a good set of punches. I made a punch out of an old, stripped Craftsman #1 Phillips screwdriver to take down Glocks, when I had one, but I think it's time for a proper set, as I find more and more uses for them. I'm thinking maybe some that are not gun-specific would be cheaper and just as functional?

For the second item, I'm thinking specifically to replace the weird factory sights on my Charles Daly Hi-Power. They're in dovetail grooves. Is there a special tool for this?

What recommendations have you got for me?
 
I have Grace hammers / punches, both brass and steel and also have Grace hollow ground screw drivers. I think they're well made for what I need.

Oh, FYI! I'm not a gunsmith, just a hobbiest, and I do like nice tools.
 
Hollow ground screwdrivers
Hex screwdrivers or bits
Torx screwdrivers or bits
Delrin, Brass, and Steel drift punches
Roll pin punches with the little dome on the end
Starter punches
Roll pin starter punches

Yikes, that’s a lot! Which one should I start with?

i’m all set with those screwdrivers already.
 
Hollow ground screwdrivers
Hex screwdrivers or bits
Torx screwdrivers or bits
Delrin, Brass, and Steel drift punches
Roll pin punches with the little dome on the end
Starter punches
Roll pin starter punches

I have ALL the above.

magnetic tray (keep parts from slipping or rolling away)
Magnet on a stick (to find parts that stray)
Rawhide mallet
Brass mallet
6 oz ball peen hammer (file the face smooth). Note 8 oz will do and my favorite is a 2 oz.
Bench vise with smooth jaws (or get copper jaws from pipe, or make wood jaws with cork lining or glue some rubber to a piece of metal that slips onto the jaw). I have several vises and my latest is a refurbished 4" Wilton I paid $250 for. Your workbench should be over waist height and your vise probably a bit higher. Less neck strain. Get a good lamp to illuminate your work space.

I also got shelf liner to place on bench. It makes it eaiser to see things.

Get (SamWorth) Walther Howe's Professional Gunsmithing for a starter book.
 
What everyone has said is solid advice. Don't try and break the bank all at once. Shop around and buy what you need a little at a time and pretty soon you'll have everything you need. Garage sales, craigslist, your normal tool sources Home Depot, Lowes and don't scoff at Harbor Freight. Brownels and Midway are great for for specialty items and we can't forget about eBay, Cabelas and Bass Pro either.

A bench can come in a variety of ways. You can make one yourself or buy one. I for one am one that likes making my own stuff.
 
What you need to do a complete tear down changes based on what you have. Example, most striker fired pistols you need punches and roll pin punches. Lots of milsurp rifles use lots of different sizes of fillister or slotted head screws. The Wheeler set is a really good set that I personally use.

As far as dovetail sights, most can be driven out with a brass punch and a hammer. Sights are getting tighter though so it isn't a bad idea to get a sight pusher. I use a NCStar one and it works well for a budget sight pusher. They can get pretty expensive for me versatile models.

https://www.amazon.com/NcSTAR-VTUPRS-Universal-Pistol-Sight/dp/B01HU4NNDE
 
What everyone has said is solid advice. Don't try and break the bank all at once. Shop around and buy what you need a little at a time and pretty soon you'll have everything you need. Garage sales, craigslist, your normal tool sources Home Depot, Lowes and don't scoff at Harbor Freight. Brownels and Midway are great for for specialty items and we can't forget about eBay, Cabelas and Bass Pro either.

A bench can come in a variety of ways. You can make one yourself or buy one. I for one am one that likes making my own stuff.
I built my last workbench. I found a neat plan that used construction grade lumber, mostly 2x4s. They were doubled up to make the legs. The top was tempered hardboard that was screwed on, so it could be replaced when it got worn out. I wish I could find that plan; I'd build another one in a New York Second. (had to leave it with the house I built it in)

With the price of lumber these days, I've got my eye on a Craftsman bench from Lowes. with a maple top.

I have an old mechanic's vise that my dad gave me. I'll knock the rust off of it and mount it to the bunch. Might buy and mount a reloading press on the other end. (if I see the components are still available and a good value, compared to factory loads)

I think I will take your advice and just buy bits at a time that I need.
 
Old pallets make an excellent source for lumber and are made from mostly hard woods. There is just a lot of nail pulling. Check out the Habitat for Humanity restore sometimes you can find some smoking deals on lumber and lets not forget some of the tools you are looking for.
 
My first “real” bench was a solid core oak door that was mis-drilled for the knob. It was far too deep and I vowed to use a narrower one next time or cut out the center section so I could reach everything. Building a support stand from 2x6 lumber is pretty cost effective.

I’ve got a few work spaces now, one with double plywood top and the other single, all with wall mounting and stands.



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On tools; I use the Wheeler screwdriver set in conjunction with a Fat Wrench for basic torque settings. A couple brass punches, couple aluminum, full set of steel pin punches and pin starters. Bondhus makes good for the money hex sets, but I own a full set of metric/SAE T-handles as well. Small brass hammer, plastic/rubber combo, lots of files, picks, and a cradle of some sort when a vise isn’t necessary. Armorer’s blocks for specific models can be a pleasant addition to your collection if they’re good ones.

Im gonna dissent on the little at a time process and say save $300 then buy it all at once. After you start a project is not the time to go searching websites or hardware stores for what you need.
 
Lots of people recommend several sets of punches. I get that the softer ones will not mar the finish on steel pins, but wouldn't they also mushroom pretty readily?

I'm thinking that for my purposes, very basic flat headed steel punches would be all I need.

As for buying all this stuff at once, I'm not going to do that, because it would be hundreds of bucks spent on tools that I don't need. I'm not making a living from this, just fixing a small issue or the odd deep cleaning now and then. Not trying to be a proper gunsmith or anything.

Thanks all for the advice.
 
Don’t waste money on cheap punches. Go ahead and buy a Starrett set. In my 50 year career I have the same set, only the three smaller ones have been broken and replaced. An empty 22 hull over the end of the punch will keep it from marring the finish. don’t throw away the broken ones, they can be reground for specific needs.
 
I'm thinking that for my purposes, very basic flat headed steel punches would be all I need.

As for buying all this stuff at once, I'm not going to do that, because it would be hundreds of bucks spent on tools that I don't need.



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About $145 to this point, closer to $100 if you already own a vise, for a reasonable set of tools that allow you to do more than break things down to clean; if you’re already inside of a firearm, why not take a few minutes and improve things? Deburr, slick up, add shims, swap springs.

Most of them are very simple to work on with a bit of care and a smidge of mechanical aptitude, which is a generous portion compared to my personal amount. If $150 in tools gets you a better understanding of your weapons and saves you even 1 trip to the smith for a simple issue, then they’ve paid for themselves.


Never know what you might tackle once you’ve got a few tools. Always rewarding to learn and acquire new skills.
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Thanks for the screen shots, Tylerbone. I have some of that stuff already (micro files, screwdriver bits, etc.) and I'm outgrowing my new house already too, so I don't want to duplicate stuff. A set of punches will do me for now.

I'll save the other $80 to put toward my Mossy 500, as I don't have a shotgun yet. or a decent set of sights for my Hi-Power.

I'm about to get married next month and and going on a honeymoon next week, so now's not the time to be splurging anyway. ;-)

Trust me, I'm not cheap.
 
One thing not mentioned are some large clear plastic bags. If I have to disassemble something with a lot of small springs, like a Marlin .22 semi auto, I put the assembly in the bag so flying parts cant get away. I think the ones I have are for smaller kitchen garbage cans. The clear ones are also called recycling bags. Has saved me many times searching for a spring I'd never find. Good luck on both your new ventures.:thumbup:
 
I've done everything I need to do, with a basic set of Winchester driver bits, and a relatively cheap set of punches, mostly brass, but there are a couple steel ones in there too. I like the little plastic case for the punch set, and it came with a small hammer that fits in the plastic case.
 
Don’t waste money on cheap punches. Go ahead and buy a Starrett set. In my 50 year career I have the same set, only the three smaller ones have been broken and replaced. An empty 22 hull over the end of the punch will keep it from marring the finish. don’t throw away the broken ones, they can be reground for specific needs.

Was also gonna say buy Starrett punches. Buy once, cry once. I also have grace brand and they are okay, but im kinda hard on punches. My hammers are Vaughn and Grace.

I use the big 100 pc or so Wheeler screwdriver bit set and a fatwrench. Bondus hex and torx keys.

I use Cleveland taps and dies when possible. Another thing where spending a bit more saves in the long run.

Vises are an American made Wilton and a Kurt. Neither are economical for a hobbyist though. The imported Wiltons are still nice and 1/3 the price.

My bench is made from 2x6's with half of it covered by a 1/4" steel plate. I also have a "sand bag" which is an old canvas shot bag filled tight with Kansas River fine sand.

I like to use clear plastic flat tackle boxes to keep gun parts in when disassembled. They allow you to keep individual assemblies separated: like rear sight parts, trigger parts, gas system parts, etc.
 
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