"Warm" reloads for smokeless rated top breaks? *read first post*

[TTv2]

I'm planning to load up some short .32 S&W to do a test in several revolvers to see how much a longer chamber impacts velocity on a short, low pressure cartridge.

Planning to shoot the short .32 in .32 S&W Long, H&R Mag, and .327 Mag chambered revolvers.

To be fair to the cartridge I have to test it in a revolver with the proper chamber, which means I'll at some point have to buy a top break as those are the only revolvers I know of chambered only for the .32 shorts. To also be fair, I want to test it with several powders and with starting and near max charges from published data.

The common thing I've seen said is use starting loads only for top breaks, but it seems that's often repeated due to the numerous antique black powder only top breaks out there.

With a known smokeless model in good condition, does the starting load only rule still remain in effect? Keep in mind this is simply to test velocity, the round count will be low, maybe 20 rounds. I am NOT looking to plink or practice in a small frame top break .32 with a steady diet of handloads using more than the starting powder charge.

Is this safe or is 20 rounds likely to damage the revolver?

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I'm planning to load up some short .32 S&W to do a test in several revolvers to see how much a longer chamber impacts velocity on a short, low pressure cartridge.

Planning to shoot the short .32 in .32 S&W Long, H&R Mag, and .327 Mag chambered revolvers.

To be fair to the cartridge I have to test it in a revolver with the proper chamber, which means I'll at some point have to buy a top break as those are the only revolvers I know of chambered only for the .32 shorts. To also be fair, I want to test it with several powders and with starting and near max charges from published data.

The common thing I've seen said is use starting loads only for top breaks, but it seems that's often repeated due to the numerous antique black powder only top breaks out there.

With a known smokeless model in good condition, does the starting load only rule still remain in effect? Keep in mind this is simply to test velocity, the round count will be low, maybe 20 rounds. I am NOT looking to plink or practice in a small frame top break .32 with a steady diet of handloads using more than the starting powder charge.

Is this safe or is 20 rounds likely to damage the revolver?

I don’t want to post anything that might get you or anyone else hurt. All I can say is I have handled countless 19th century top-break .32S&W revolvers which I know have been fed a steady diet of smokeless factory ammo with no ill effects. I have also encountered a large number of very loose 20th century top-break .32Long revolvers which I know have been fed a steady diet of .32ACP, hot handloads, boutique “self-defense” ammo. What I’ve seen is, they get too loose to cycle or set off the primer long before the cylinder goes or the top latch lets go. The latch pins will sheer and the latching mechanism will stretch before either happens. Typically, in my experience from what I’ve observed of a very limited sample of very high quality, name- brand guns.

Going over what is recommended is never safe. You decide if the risk is worth the reward.

 

[TTv2]

I don’t want to post anything that might get you or anyone else hurt. All I can say is I have handled countless 19th century top-break .32S&W revolvers which I know have been fed a steady diet of smokeless factory ammo with no ill effects. I have also encountered a large number of very loose 20th century top-break .32Long revolvers which I know have been fed a steady diet of .32ACP, hot handloads, boutique “self-defense” ammo. What I’ve seen is, they get too loose to cycle or set off the primer long before the cylinder goes or the top latch lets go. The latch pins will sheer and the latching mechanism will stretch before either happens. Typically, in my experience from what I’ve observed of a very limited sample of very high quality, name- brand guns.

Going over what is recommended is never safe. You decide if the risk is worth the reward.

I'm sure there's a difference in longevity when different manufacturers is involved, the Hopkins & Allen top breaks were known to have very short lifespans. I'm only looking at H&R, I've not been disappointed by any yet.

So my thinking is that due to low quality made top breaks if that's the reason starting loads are recommended as an added safety.

The key phrase you used is "steady diet" and while I can't know what something has seen, I know I don't plan to shoot a steady diet of hot loads, only enough to get data from a chronograph and then everything after that will be published starting loads.

 

[EricBu]

Low quality, poorly made top breaks gave them a bad name. The ones I've seen that were shot out from warm loads were rattle traps that hardly functioned. I personally think you're fine with what you want to accomplish, and in fact you are probably fine in your use case for any saami spec load with a modern top break, especially with only 20 rounds or so. I know in some calibers, some modern makers of top breaks set bullet weight limits, so that might be a consideration if you were considering heavy for caliber projectiles, though I have no knowledge of any specific limitations in 32 S&W top breaks.

 

[TTv2]

Low quality, poorly made top breaks gave them a bad name. The ones I've seen that were shot out from warm loads were rattle traps that hardly functioned. I personally think you're fine with what you want to accomplish, and in fact you are probably fine in your use case for any saami spec load with a modern top break, especially with only 20 rounds or so. I know in some calibers, some modern makers of top breaks set bullet weight limits, so that might be a consideration if you were considering heavy for caliber projectiles, though I have no knowledge of any specific limitations in 32 S&W top breaks.

While it's not a huge difference in weight, I was going to use 77gr bullets when it seems 85gr is standard. 10% light bullet surly means less stress on the gun.

My figuring is that higher velocity is more desirable than projectile mass for this caliber.

 

[Jim Watson]

The Internet Gun Culture is very cautious on the "smokeless rated" status of old revolvers.
I look at my 1901 catalog and figure that Grandpa shot smokeless if he could afford it.

I would splurge on a box of factory .32 S&W for this exercise. That is what I did most of the time for my .38 S&W for the few rounds shot in CAS Pocket Pistol side matches. I did reload but most of that went in my Legal Defender Navy conversion or my Great Western derringer.

Remington Performance WheelGun Ammo 32 S&W 88 Grain Lead Round Nose

Remington Performance Wheelgun ammunition is engineered to take your Revolver and Lever Rifle skills to the next level. Made with high-quality...

www.midwayusa.com

If you just must reload, there is data here:

https://www.nzha.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Lyman44.pdf

Even in 1967 Lyman was cautious with top breaks.
Note that Red Dot gets the most velocity, more than Bullseye or Unique anyhow.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

The Internet Gun Culture is very cautious on the "smokeless rated" status of old revolvers.
I look at my 1901 catalog and figure that Grandpa shot smokeless if he could afford it.

I would splurge on a box of factory .32 S&W for this exercise. That is what I did most of the time for my .38 S&W for the few rounds shot in CAS Pocket Pistol side matches. I did reload but most of that went in my Legal Defender Navy conversion or my Great Western derringer.

Remington Performance WheelGun Ammo 32 S&W 88 Grain Lead Round Nose

Remington Performance Wheelgun ammunition is engineered to take your Revolver and Lever Rifle skills to the next level. Made with high-quality...

www.midwayusa.com

If you just must reload, there is data here:

https://www.nzha.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Lyman44.pdf

Even in 1967 Lyman was cautious with top breaks.
Note that Red Dot gets the most velocity, more than Bullseye or Unique anyhow.

A buck a shot! Holy smokes!
I use the Hunter Supply 77gr for smokeful and smokeless and the Meisters 78gr for smokeless. The lube HS uses works pretty well for smokeful but Meister uses blue wax and it’s not so great for black.

 

[TTv2]

The Internet Gun Culture is very cautious on the "smokeless rated" status of old revolvers.
I look at my 1901 catalog and figure that Grandpa shot smokeless if he could afford it.

I would splurge on a box of factory .32 S&W for this exercise. That is what I did most of the time for my .38 S&W for the few rounds shot in CAS Pocket Pistol side matches. I did reload but most of that went in my Legal Defender Navy conversion or my Great Western derringer.

Remington Performance WheelGun Ammo 32 S&W 88 Grain Lead Round Nose

Remington Performance Wheelgun ammunition is engineered to take your Revolver and Lever Rifle skills to the next level. Made with high-quality...

www.midwayusa.com

If you just must reload, there is data here:

https://www.nzha.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Lyman44.pdf

Even in 1967 Lyman was cautious with top breaks.
Note that Red Dot gets the most velocity, more than Bullseye or Unique anyhow.

If only I could find Red Dot or even. An 8lb jug of Promo I would gladly buy it. Been wanting that powder and 800x since pre-Covid