Warning for ZevTech Glock owners.

[the duck of death]

....

 

[W.R.Buchanan]

After shooting Glocks for the last 20 years I came to the conclusion that the best "Trigger Job" you can do is to shoot the gun about 600 times. After that a small amount of Moly Grease on the striker tooth completes the break in.

All of my reduced power spring kits have failed in less than 300 rounds.

Polishing the sear on the trigger bar or the striker tooth any amount will result in reduced longevity simply because any removal of the Electroless Nickel Plating that is baked on and only .0003-.0004 in thickness reduces that hardened material and as soon as it wears thru both parts are toast. Electroless Nickel when baked after plating yields a surface hardness of 78 Rc and all the parts in the Fire Control System of a Glock are done this way to increase longevity. Stock FC parts should last 5000+ rounds no problem. The actual steel the parts are made from is pretty soft stuff and the plating is what gives it the wear resistance. As soon as the plating wears thru the key places you are looking at 50 to 100 rounds before the parts are worn out.

There is nothing about a Glock trigger that can't be learned in a short period of time and thinking you are going to get a 1911 trigger out of one by changing parts is as bad as thinking that doing it is going to improve your shooting. The only ways to improve your shooting is to either get trained and then practice, or to get trained and then practice.

I've been down this road with 2 different guns (G35 and G21SF) and both now have all stock parts back in them, including dumping aftermarket barrels which only caused malfunctions and were tried simply because people talked so much about shooting Lead Boolits in Glocks with stock barrels being so dangerous. That turned out to be BS as well and the vast majority of what I shoot now are PC'd Cast Lead Boolits. Stock barrels are no more prone to leading than an aftermarket barrel, as long as the Boolit Fit is correct. So more Internet Hype and BS went down the toilet.

Needless to say my other two Glocks a G36 and G23 both have stock parts except for a G35 Slide Catch and Extended Mag Release, and the G36 got Magazine Extensions so I can get a full grip on the gun. All 4 guns have 5.5lb connectors in them (got rid of the 3.5 connector in the G35 as it was too easy to mash the trigger with it in.

All the guns get the trigger safety shaved down to where it is flush with the trigger face when depressed and this eliminates the groove in your trigger finger that is the biggest detriment to trigger control out there.

All of these guns get at least 1000 rounds a year put thru them except for the G23 which I just got to be my bug out gun. Waiting for Night Sights for it and a G19 9MM Barrel so I can interchange ammo in a SHTF Situation. it will go to Front Sight in the fall for a 4 day class and 800+ rounds down the tube and will be nicely broken in upon return.

I got this way after having nothing but problems and malfunctions when shooting Local IDPA Matches and getting Frustrated with Malfunctions that caused me to have to prematurely reload and lose places in stages that required an exact round count to clean. One malfunction completely screwed me so many times I finally got sick of it, and that doesn't happen any more. But what is really frustrating is when it happens on the second shot of the first stage and you realize that your whole day just went down the toilet, and there's nothing you can do to fix it.

I realize some may take exception to all of this and YMMV, but so many people think they can buy their way to expert status by replacing parts that in the end will only cost you money and time after you figure out they didn't do anything positive for you and you just have to go back and learn the gun all over again.

The only way to get good is to get trained and practice. I am not an expert by any means, but I do know what I'm talking about in that regard. This is true of many things.

Randy

 

[the duck of death]

One of the OEM crowd that doesn't know how to do a trigger job & preaches leave it the trigger alone.

No thanks, I like my 3lb trigger--that's lasted for thousands of rounds.

 

[W.R.Buchanan]

YMMV and that's the beauty of being born in America. You can do whatever you want to your guns. Most places can't even have guns!

Since none of us seem to know,,, why don't you explain to all of us exactly how to do a trigger job on a Glock?

I'm sure it will be enlightening.

Randy

 

[Varminterror]

I don't have a clew how to do a trigger job. But I did read an article by a gunsmith who does have a clue. He said many parts in a gun are surface hardened & when a tinkerer grinds or polishes, he removes the surface hardening, exposing the softer metal underneath, which results in a part that wears out prematurely. And it also changes the angle. But it works smoothly--until it fails, making the gun unreliable or unsafe.

This is interesting information, which might actually be of value if it applies to the Glock fire control mechanism.

Which surfaces within the Glock action - EXACTLY - are surface hardened?

Extending - when an aftermarket trigger bar, firing pin, connector, trigger housing, or firing pin block, which surface which was surface hardened is no longer such?

Equally - could you elaborate as to how, by its own virtue, stoning or polishing internal action components of a Glock pistol will "also change the angle"? And to which angles within the Glock Safe Action pistol design are you referring? Which are the critical angles which must remain as delivered from factory, lest they eventually fail?

 

[the duck of death]

"QUOTE"
why don't you explain to all of us exactly how to do a trigger job on a Glock?

Sure, be glad to--get on the internet, as I did & figure it out.

Varminterror,

A lot of questions I had too.

 

[1stmarine]

Interesting... What is a zevteck glock? sorry never heard that before.

 

[Shaq]

This is interesting information, which might actually be of value if it applies to the Glock fire control mechanism.

Which surfaces within the Glock action - EXACTLY - are surface hardened?

Extending - when an aftermarket trigger bar, firing pin, connector, trigger housing, or firing pin block, which surface which was surface hardened is no longer such?

Equally - could you elaborate as to how, by its own virtue, stoning or polishing internal action components of a Glock pistol will "also change the angle"? And to which angles within the Glock Safe Action pistol design are you referring? Which are the critical angles which must remain as delivered from factory, lest they eventually fail?

Some pistols use surface hardening & some use other methods to harden parts that have friction when shooting. According to Post #52, the Glock uses Electroless Nickel Plating, which is removed if you polish or stone parts.

But....it's your gun; modify it to your heart's content....I only change sights & mine always work. Six Glocks, over 18,000 rounds, never a malfunction.

 

[the duck of death]

Electroless Nickel Plating is used as a rust preventive NOT a metal hardener.

The amount of miss information out there about Glocks is STAGGERING.

 

[JohnKSa]

It is not a metal hardener, per se, but it does provide a surface layer that is likely to be harder than the underlying steel. It also tends to reduce the need for lubrication. Removing it definitely changes the mechanical properties of the metal-to-metal interaction of internal parts, and, as you note, makes the parts less corrosion resistant.

One electroless nickel plating company lists the following benefits of the treatment.

• Superior corrosion protection
• Low to zero porosity
• Non-magnetic coating
• Less prone to staining
• Pit-free deposits
• Compressive stress
• Heat treated deposits compare in hardness to hard chrome.
• Uniform deposit regardless of part geometry
• Provides extremely low coefficient of friction
• Semi-bright appearance similar to stainless steel.

 

[Varminterror]

The problem here - a discussion about cutting through electroless nickel coatings is pretty well moot, since there is no reason to stone a Glock trigger bar or striker bar. Unlike many Military rifle triggers, such as were likely the topic of the gunsmith article @Shaq incorrectly cited above, the Glock trigger mechanism doesn't need to have the sear angle adjusted to "neutralize" a positive sear angle. The trigger can only be moderately enhanced by polishing - not particularly stoning - the E nickel surface, but is largely improved by replacing the trigger bar. The pull weight, unlike most other rifle or handgun designs, is easily reduced by replacing the connector with one of a steeper angle - NOT by modifying the existing connector. In the case of a replacement trigger bar and replacement connector - what shaq neglected above - the E nickel coating of the part is left at full thickness.

So the comment about cutting through surface hardening or surface plating is largely inapplicable - which shaq should have known before throwing out gibberish concerns pertaining to the wrong FCG.

 

[Mizar]

This is an interesting video from Robar, showing how some aftermarket triggers bypass not only the drop safety, but the firing pin safety as well:



One should choose wisely the aftermarket parts he wants to install.

P.S. I cannot believe that there are such stupid and ignorant manufacturers - be it purely a race trigger, or just some enhanced-low-drag-operatorish B.S. trigger, there is no excuse for that sort of thing.

 

[Zerodefect]

"competition only"

Yeah it sucks. All they had to do was come up with a clever comfortable METAL trigger. And they screwed that up by going crazy with travel reduction that messes the safeties up. If you notice in some trigger reviews, certain brands ahve just about the exact amount of travel the stock Glock does, those are the safe ones.

 

[rbernie]

There's a big difference between changing grips, and dropping in race triggers.

AR triggers are a bit of a different beast. They're generally true packs, as in everything is all inside one self contained fiddle-proof package.

This. Anytime you're adjusting trigger individual bits, things may or may not line up the way that they ought to.

Many of the Glock race triggers are designed to remove the two-stage take-up and shorten the trigger reset. These can be unsafe if the geometries aren't just absolutely perfect. This is why I run the Ghost Edge connector - it doesn't try to remove the take-up, it reduces the bump between the first and second stage to give one consistent trigger pull that can't be accidentally made to do things that it ought not do.

 

[Shaq]

Electroless Nickel Plating is used as a rust preventive NOT a metal hardener.

The amount of miss information out there about Glocks is STAGGERING.

Uh, OK, the plating is a rust preventative. So...why would anyone remove it & cause parts to rust?

 

[the duck of death]

"QUOTE"
So...why would anyone remove it & cause parts to rust?

To get them smooth when they rub together. Magnified, they are rough & will cause a gritty trigger pull.