Went with the Load Master!

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I was going to get one of those but I read some complaints about the swiveling handle. I had a couple of impact sockets laying around so I made a set of wrenches. It may be cheaper to get one of the RCBS wrenches, and if the handle is as bad as I have heard you could silver solder or weld a hande on, like I do to mine.

Here are a couple of photos of my wrench
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Chris
 
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How do you fit your open/closed end wrench between the die nuts?

None of mine would fit.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Keep in mind I have a Lyman Turret press. There is a lot more room around the dies. I use the open end on the dies (which is not too often since I keep separate turrest preloaded) and I don't take up all 7 holes so there is enough room to get to the bolt or usually I just grab a ratchet and socket.
 
Shadow, you need to make some up and sell them! Not everyone has the tools to slice a socket and weld on the handle. Guess I could hack one together with my dremel and MAP torch!
 
"How do you fit your open/closed end wrench between the die nuts? None of mine would fit."

You gotta make 'em, Chris--I just beaver along with my Craftsman Adjustable / Monkey wrench, and it's an awful routine.

Jim H.
 
Hi Rustynuts

I am new to reloading and have been reading this thread with great interest as I am looking at the Lee Load-Master Press. Right now I have loaded about 200 rounds with the little Lee Classic Loader, but recently saw a single press being used in person and saw all the pluses to that over my hand kit.

I saw this http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=536731&t=11082005 and was wondering what else I would need to get started. Right now only will be doing 357 mags for my revolver, have the powder and bullets, brass and primers, calipers and bullet puller, plastic mallet, case lube and 357 reload manual. Need scale, vibrator or tumbler, not sure if there is a difference, cleaning media and just about everything else.

Any other pointers or tips, or maybe things I don't need to buy, would be much appreciated
 
Well FINALLY got my powder and primers in. Took a few extra days as no one was around to sign! In the meantime been fiddling with adjustments, checking powder throw amounts, changing out lock nuts, making Shadowdog's chain-to-rod mod, etc., etc. Planning on cranking out 50-100 test rounds tomorrow. 5-grns of 231 sure doesn't look like much in the case though! (45 acp)

Shadowdog, I did the rod mod, but due to the powder dispenser being free swinging, it seems like the rod would end up binding on something. Tried messing with different bends, but never got it just right. Ended up back with the chain. Are you still on the rod?
 
"...due to the powder dispenser being free swinging...."

Something is wrong here--the Pro...Measure is not free swinging. Are you using the swivel adapter and the riser? My guess is that you do not have the swivel tightened down--or if it is tightened down, loosen it and realign the measure for the chain to work properly.

If you don't have a swivel adapter installed, you will need to get one, OR you can adjust the die body on the turret so that everything lines up correctly. Adjusting the die body will mean changing your case belling slightly--so, if you can, try to make it work with less bell, rather than more.

Jim H.
 
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With all this 'chain talk' and rods, i called lee today to ask why the pro measure will work with the spring only on my classic turret, and why i couldn't use the same setup on my loadmaster instead of fooling around with the chain. I was told it was for safety so you can't get a double charge.
Well, i figured that if i'm concheiuos????(careful) enough not to double charge on the turret, i ought to be able to do the same thing with the loadmaster. His reply was - I certainly could.
Now my loadmaster is running just fine with only the spring return and no damm breaking chain.
I also have a small led light tywrapped to the front post so i can see the powder level before i insert the bullet;
The most foolproof method i use is always use a powder that at least 1/2 fills the case so it will be real obvious it a double charge.
 
I'm a bit of a 'reluctant advocate' of the chain / pullback system on the powder measure. I loaded 1000s of rounds on my early turret and Pro 1000, neither of which had a provision for manual return--the spring return was the only one available.

While the exact reason(s) remain a mystery, the spring return very rarely "hangs"--it does not return to recharge the disk. Long-time Lee users know that, I think. On the Turret, such a hang is typically readily spotted--the measure is right in front of you when it happens. On a Progressive, there's so many more things happening at once with three-to-five cases being worked on that you can miss that empty case and end up with a squib load--I know I did: They were extremely rare, but they would happen. I have a hunch that they happened about once every 5K-10K rounds--and I never blew up a gun, but I would rather it didn't ever happen again.

So, this year when I broke out Load-Master again, I did update one of the measures and installed the chain return kit, if only to "try it out." After setting it up successfully, I have come to appreciate it, simply because I worry less about that part of the reloading process. Because of its positive return action, that leaves monitoring the powder amount in the hopper to ensure reliable dispensing of the charge.

The chain-and-spring solution is ingenious, if cheap, but it does work and is really part of the Lee approach. The rod is a better idea, I think--and would probably lead to less maintenance stops for a broken chain. OTOH, if the chain breaks, it should be heeded as a warning to check out the dispensing system for a bind that caused it to break.

I've only loaded perhaps 2K of rounds with the chain return in place, but nothing has broken, stretched, or whatever. I do have to conscientiously remember to not leave the ram at full bottom in order to not stress the spring and chain, but I'm getting used to that now.

Jim H.
 
The powder dispenser does not free swing on mine so that is not an issue. I did have the rod for a short while then went back to the chain because i figured tht it was the fusable link in the system. Recently I had the chain loosten up by one bead si i am thinking about going back to the rod. I havent loaded in a few weeks so I didn't switch back yet.

Hope everything works out starting with the case and bullet feed hooked up at the beginning. I started out manually feeding the cases and cycling one case through the press at a time until I knew everything was set up correctly. The I added the case feeder and loaded a bunch. Then I added the bullet feed.

Chris
 
I got the bullet feeder working just fine with my 10mm setup. "Just fine" means about three drops / failures in one set of tubes, or about 100 bullets. When I tried to do it last week (another feeder kit) on my 357 set, I couldn't get it to work worth a ****, and gave up.

Even if it works fine, the reality is that it is not a timesaver, like the case feeder tubes and collator are on that side of the process. You will spend as much time filling tubes as you just sitting there dropping the bullets on. IMO, dannyabear, don't bother.

Shadow500's approach is the way to getting a Load-Master running smoothly, I think. As I was going through the case-feeder tweaking, I tried the 5-die setup and found that simply eliminated the primer seating headaches, so I've stayed with that.

I also spent a fair amount of time getting the right height for 10mm case feeds--and now I have found that the 10mm height works pretty well for 357 Magnum.

Meanwhile, I generated a fair number of primed cases as I tweaked the case feeder and let them run over to the PTE belling. When I set up the seater crimper and the FCD dies, I left the bullet feeder out of the equation, to add later.

With the five-die configuration, I went back through and varied the dies as needed to get uniform pressure on the shell plate from the #1 & #2 dies as a set, and from the #4 & #5 dies as a set--that was the key to more uniform LOAs, or for the LOA not significantly shrinking as a run ended. That pressure is quite minimal; I keyed it off the "plus 1/4-turn down of #1 and #2. IOW, without precise measuring, the #4 and #5 dies are set the same way...kind of.

The first time I did a primer feed switchout, I also had to go back and spend a bit of time tweaking the primer depth adjustment so both large and small primers seated the same way.

After using your videos, Chris, I had the case feeder running smoothly just as soon as I lubed with STP. I had to tweak it when I put the tubes on, and adjusted the height--but that was just adjusting the drag screws.

Jim H.
 
Yes, the black knob on the Pro was not fully tight. Doesn't really matter with the chain as it functioned fine with it loose. Still, even with it finger tight, it's easy to loosen if the powder mech. is bumped. or if the rod binds, etc. I think the chain is the elegant solution!
 
The bullet feed works good for me. I was using it to load 240gr swc for 44 mag. I recently read a post from someone who loaded round nose bullets had a probem with all of the bullets comming out together. Maby the flat nose of the swc helped me.

When I started reloading for multiple calibers I wound up taking the case feeder and bullet feeder off of the press atogether. I can easily load over 500 rounds an hour without either, and I figure I can load a bunch of rounds in the same time it would take to set everything up after a caliber change. If I went back to having a one caliber dedicated machine I would leave the auto case feed and buet feed on.

Chris
 
The 10mm bullet feeder seems to work OK with my 180-to-200 LTCs or LRNFPs--i.e., flat-nose, like you say, Chris.

I think the problem with the 38/357 feeder is that the bullet I am using (a 140 LTC) is just .04 too long for one base, so I have to go to the longer base. And, for some reason, the bracket flexes laterally too much, and I chewed off a couple of fingers--so I set it aside until I finish tweaking the new 38 Special turret setup.

Any ideas on the lateral flexing?

Jim H.
 
Just something to add to your setup If that desk isn't mounted to the wall I would bolt it screw it or fix it to the wall some how. and as above talking about light I just rebuilt my bench a while back. It is 6+ long X a little over 3ft deep I have a flourescent light above it to architect lights mounted to the back wall with halogen bulbs and plan on 2 more one for each end. you setup does look pretty cozy though. I want to see picture in a couple of month after you really get going :). Good luck Looks good.
 
It is cozy but workable. I already had the bench just setting in the garage so I used it. In the process of building shelves to attach to the legs. "Should" keep the top clean! For a second or two.
 
What I was saying about the bench is you are going to want to attach it to the frame of your house. You want it rock solid. Once you really get it up and going you will see how much it move if not. I didn't mean any thing neg about being cozy. I've seen picture or reloading benches setup in a closet. Now thats a little to cozy. Good looking setup but like you said after a while you will fiend yourself in the garge and the car in the driveway.
 
Yes I was thinking of lagging it to a stud. Nothing really moves though unless I really crank on it at the bottom after its bottomed out. As stated, the front feet of the bench jut out further than the table top. Reduces the overturning moment. I designed the bench this way as a work bench for when I might clamp a vise to it or something.
 
Looks real good. I'min the process of settin up my permanant loading bench I just built a couple of weeks ago from the HammerZone plans that were posted her in another thread awhile back. I too am going to be using a LoadMaster along with the Classic press I've been using for the past few months. Prior to that I had the Classic press and Powder thrower mounted on a 2x4 that I C-clamped to my computer table to reload with.

I too live in Central Florida and know all about how the static can sneak up on you but it is a pretty rare creature. Get one of those Office mats and you'll be fine.
 
Office mat is trimmed to size and in place now! Putting the finish on my shelves and need to think about putting holes in the wall for lag bolts!
 
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