I've always heard holsters were made to fit better by " wet molding " to form the holster to fit a gun . I have a holster made for a Python and it fits my GP100 pretty well but I wonder if I can improve the fit by wet molding , anyone done this before ? TIA
wet molded holsters
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romulus
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From what I've read over the years, I believe wet-molding is done to the individual model...I don't know if you can re-mold a holster once it's been wet-molded and boned for the particular model for which it was intended.
To insure proper fit and retention a holster is wet molded to the specific weapon that the customer requests...It is VERY time consuming and contributes to the high cost of leather holsters...two of the places that are normally "fitted" are the triggerguard and ejection port (on revolvers the cylinder is fitted)...You can remold a holster to fit a different handgun..however it probably wont fit as well as the pistol that it was originally crafted for...also this tends to remove the finish that is done to displace moisture that leather tends to attract...thats why most "gunpeople" have several holsters...Hope this helps.
I have re-molded a number of holsters without any particular problems - if the leather will still absorb water.
I often use plastic spoons and rods rounded on the end along with my fingers too do the molding. Don't use metal as they can leave black marks.
After dunking the holster in warm water remove it and dry off all the access water you can with paper towels.
Rap the well-oiled or greased handgun is a thin plastic baggy and then mold the leather around it. Don't forget to slip something through the belt loop or it will give you problems later.
Set the holster aside after it's molded and let it dry overnight before removing the gun. The let it dry 24 hours more. Don't heat it in any way to make it dry faster.
Tandy Leather sell a finish called "Neat-Laq." Use it according to directions after the holster is dry.
Re-molding works best when (1) the holster is a close fit for the new gun it's intended for, and (2) the holster has some kind of retaining strap. In any case don't try to make a bigger holster fit a smaller gun and expect to get safe retention.
I often use plastic spoons and rods rounded on the end along with my fingers too do the molding. Don't use metal as they can leave black marks.
After dunking the holster in warm water remove it and dry off all the access water you can with paper towels.
Rap the well-oiled or greased handgun is a thin plastic baggy and then mold the leather around it. Don't forget to slip something through the belt loop or it will give you problems later.
Set the holster aside after it's molded and let it dry overnight before removing the gun. The let it dry 24 hours more. Don't heat it in any way to make it dry faster.
Tandy Leather sell a finish called "Neat-Laq." Use it according to directions after the holster is dry.
Re-molding works best when (1) the holster is a close fit for the new gun it's intended for, and (2) the holster has some kind of retaining strap. In any case don't try to make a bigger holster fit a smaller gun and expect to get safe retention.
Thanks Old Fluff , thats the kind of information I was hoping for , The holster fits the GP100 pretty well but just doesn't fit as well as it did with the Python . I don't mind buying another holster but I already have this one and have found theres not a very big market for Python holsters .
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