Bennj
Member
Good evening, I have a question for the holster makers here please. How many times can you wet mold a holster? Thanks in advance for any replies.
Holster wet molding
- Thread starter Bennj
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WestKentucky
Member
I’m not sure there’s a limit. I have gotten leather wet and had to reshape it several times, but not a holster.
Bennj
Member
Thank you. I have a 642 in a holster that I wet molded and it holds just fine. I was wondering if I switched to another j frame type revolver would I be able to re-mold the holster.
Ohen Cepel
Member
Unless the other J frame varies a lot I don't think you would need to reshape the holster. I have not had to do that with various J's in the same holster over the years.
Rather than try to reshape it (if you still have the one it fits) you're likely better off to buy a 2nd holster. Or, that is the path I would take myself.
Rather than try to reshape it (if you still have the one it fits) you're likely better off to buy a 2nd holster. Or, that is the path I would take myself.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
As long as it's wet, I'm unsure there's any danger in doing it repeatedly. I can tell you this, when you bend and fold a dry holster in order to artificially age it, there's no going back.
doubleh
Member
I agree with CraigC. Flexing veg tanned leather dry breaks down the fibers. Use faucet temperature to just warm water. Heat is leather's worst enemy.
Plus one on this choice bit of advice. Rod
AzShooter1
Member
You can wet and reshape holsters as much as you want but sometimes the leather has set and will not shape. It's just a trap shoot.
I finish my holsters buy dumping them in warm water with detergent in it. These have a set after forming and it's difficult to get it all out for a new model pistol.
I finish my holsters buy dumping them in warm water with detergent in it. These have a set after forming and it's difficult to get it all out for a new model pistol.
Bennj
Member
I also used warm water with a few drops of detergent, only let it sit for maybe 30 seconds.
doubleh
Member
I have never tried liquid detergent but have used pro-carve which I believe is a very mild detergent on some old stiff Herman's Oak leather I wanted to carve. After two applications it had softened up to about like new leather and tooled nicely. I have also tried it on new leather to see if it would make the knife go easier and can tell no difference over using plain water. It is rather expensive compared to liquid detergent. The only advantage I can see with adding detergent is it might make the leather absorb water a little quicker. Warm water does the same and I could see using it on an old holster to reshape it. Otherwise I will just stick with regular tap water, 65 degrees as it comes from the ground.
I still have quite a bit of the old Herman's Oak and I will try a tiny bit of detergent on my next project just to see how it affect things.
I still have quite a bit of the old Herman's Oak and I will try a tiny bit of detergent on my next project just to see how it affect things.
Speedo66
Member
How long does it take for the moistened leather to take a set?
How do you apply pressure to mold it, press?
How do you apply pressure to mold it, press?
Bennj
Member
Obviously I'm no expert, having only tried it a few times. I believe the drop or two of detergent helps soften the fibers of an already dyed holster. I'd skip it with natural leather. I also only let it sit in warm water for a minute or two. I let it air dry for a few hours with the gun still in it and then in the oven at around 200° for 1/2 hour (after removing the gun of course). Has worked well for me.
conan32120
Member
personally I just use my gloved hands (gloves prevent small fingernail marks) to press the shape in to the point I'm satisfied then put precut foam around the edges with sumpin heavy on them. it takes the shape and holds it pretty quickly but let it dry overnight
doubleh
Member
Question #1: When it is completely dry. I wrap the gun with saran wrap. put it into the wet holster (just wet, not dripping). and do what shaping I want. Then I set it in a shady place and leave it overnight so I know it is dry. I apply no heat. Heat is leather's worst enemy.
Question #2: I don't do the extreme forming found on so many holsters today. I just want a snug fit and can accomplish that with my thumbs on most holsters. On a single action holster with no strap I use a 5/8" rounded off wooden dowel to form a dent into the trigger guard on the back side of the holster. Just enough so the gun won't drop out if held upside down. This will work on double action revolvers also but has to be formed to fit in front of the trigger. I do carving on my holsters and wet forming on the front ruins the tooling pattern.
Speedo66
Member
Thanks to all for the great info!
I have an older Desantis holster that has lost its shape, will give it a try.
I have an older Desantis holster that has lost its shape, will give it a try.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Here's my process. Once I glue and stitch the mainseam, I dip dye in a 4:1 ratio of denatured alcohol to whatever color Fiebing's dye I'm using. While it's wet with dye, I insert the gun and wet mold. Unlike with water, the clock is ticking so I work quickly. No plastic wrap or bag, just the gun. It usually has to be forced and this takes some effort to do without screwing up the tooling. Then I shape it where necessary, flare the throat, straighten the mainseam and do any molding of the leather to the gun I want to do, which is usually minimal. I also do not do any boning, as it is not compatible with the style of holster I make. I also wet mold the belt loop with a heavy 14oz belt blank in the appropriate width. I do not let it dry all the way with the gun in it. I let it dry for about a half hour or so (full hour for water) and then remove it. This allows for a snugger fit than letting it completely dry. When I fit a holster, the gun sort of "knuckles in" when inserted. Once it's dry I slather it in extra virgin olive oil, then let it soak in and even out for several hours, if not overnight, then I start the finish work.
doubleh
Member
I do that but have been thinking about making a couple of wood strips because they would be tougher than leather. A few coats of polyurethane and they should last for a long time. 1 1/2" and 2" would do me. I don't make holsters for sale, just for me and some of the family. If someone were to offer me enough money I might change my mind about that.
I have the need to be making things constantly and holsters and belts help. If I am not making I am planning something to make to fill that need. My last project was a custom swivel knife that turned into four before I quit.
Bazoo
Member
The holster you have likely has lost its shape from sweat and oil and probably won’t remold well. One doesn’t know til they try though.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I thought about ordering some strips of 1/4" thick aluminum and breaking the edges. SpeedyMetals will cut to whatever length you want. A 6" section in each width would be plenty.I do that but have been thinking about making a couple of wood strips because they would be tougher than leather. A few coats of polyurethane and they should last for a long time. 1 1/2" and 2" would do me. I don't make holsters for sale, just for me and some of the family. If someone were to offer me enough money I might change my mind about that.
It is not a good idea to try to reform a commercialy made leather holster you will just make a mess of it. The reason being commercial holsters are formed wet and then shaped and molded under pressure from a press or a vacuum press and the fine detail on better models boned in by hand. They are then force dried under heat which releases collagens in the leather that glues the fibers into place. They are then finished which partialy seals the pores of the leather. Simply wetting a holster made in this fashion does not release the collagens glueing the fibers and impedes any subsequent forming. I keep seeing mentioned that heat is the enemy of leather. Not in professional holster making there it is absolutely necessary for a professionaly finished holster.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Maybe for mass production but I know of no "professional" makers that bake their holsters.
Well then your knowldge base is lacking. For nearly a decade I was a professional custom holster maker and sold holsters to every state in the union and several foriegn countries until my health took a downturn. I know a large number of custom makers and all ,read that all, use heat to set the molding in wet molded veg tan holsters. Your use of the term "bake" further indicates you do not know whereof you speak. The holsters are not baked but force dried at a temperature around 150deg F this allows the release of collagens, think liguid hide glue, in the leather fibers essentialy glueing the molding in place.
doubleh
Member
An excellent idea that had not occurred to me. I just might have a piece of 2'' in my scrap bin. E-bay is a good source of small lengths of aluminum and where I get most of what I work with. I thought wood because I have some of both sizes that would only require sawing off a piece.
doubleh
Member
Sounds like am attempt at making kydex from leather and a way to get them out the door faster.
It is raining just enough to not want to be out in it so I think I will go get started on a new belt I have been intend to make for myself that will remain real leather.
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