What are all the little things i need to start reloading?

[AndrewKy]

Hey guys, I am getting into reloading, and I have things like the press, trimmer, dies, and like stuff that picked out, what are all the little things that I need? Things like lubes, sprays, and other stuff?

Thanks,

Andy

 

[lgbloader]

Credit cards are a must have "little thing" you will need to start handloading.

LGB

 

[AndrewKy]

Credit cards are a must have "little thing" you will need to start handloading.

LGB

Haha, funny. But, could you please put something helpful while you are at it?

 

[Doug b]

Andy this may help http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=238214

 

[Six]

And in addition to that thread, check the other sticky about clever discoveries and solutions.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=218188

Don't skip the manual. You can get the reloading data from the powder or bullet makers websites, but you'll definitely want a manual as well.

Calipers and bullet pullers may sound optional, and they are, until things don't add up and you need them

A set of decent smallish screw drivers and allen wrenches to adjust the dies and powder measure.

 

[jmahalek]

Scale, bullet puller, primer flip tray, bullet gauge (test your product).

 

[lgbloader]

Okay, how about this:

I would go all out Build a Gun Room (40'x40')with central air and heating and get New custom built, dream style work benches complete with custom lighting system and illuminated magnifier, 8 Super 1050's for main calibers, 6 XL650's for ???, a couple of 900's (I don't load shot shell but what the hell...) a few of 550b for misc pistol, 5 Redding T7 and 3 Redding Ultra mag single stage presses, 3 RCBS charge Master combo, Complete line of Redding Dies for all the calibers that you shoot with comp sizers / seaters and crimp dies as well. 6 Dillon large Tumblers, new RCBS digital measuring tools & consentricity tools,3 Giruad trimmers, 3 Redding 2400 trimmers, 5 RCBS Case Prep Centers with ALL attachments, 3 RCBS Uniflows, 5 Harrell PMs, 10 years worth of Imperial Size wax and One shot lube spray, Various powders in 8 lb containers with 3 back up, New brass (10000+) for each caliber, Bullets (25000+ minimum) for each caliber in both jacketed and cast, thousands & thousands each of primers pistol and rifle, small, large and magnum each, a Top of the line computer with internet H/U, 1 x 70" Flat screen, new surround sound system, a completely stocked wet bar with refrigeration and Guiness on tap (for after the loading), pool table, a Striper Pole with appropriate mirrors, lights and smoke machines... , a lounge area, a top of the line coffee maker, 2009 Playboy Calender (I only read the dates!!) various other tools not mentioned, a cell phone for take out food, and a dash of Tabasco Sauce !!! I like it!!!!!

Drinks all around...

LGB

 

[WNTFW]

lgbloader,
I almost started to do exactly what you suggested in your post. Then I saw how you spelled 'consentricity' and now I have second thoughts about the validity of your post. The fact it has no BBQ pit really killed it though. I gotta eat & would like to try some annealing.
Later,
WNTFW

 

[Doug b]

Lgb you just described my shop except for the pool table,man I miss my table.

 

[WNTFW]

AndrewKY,
I'd write down your steps and get an idea of workflow and details. Some things like a deburring tool or load blocks make life a lot easier. Leaving 1 item off your order may be a pain. I found listing the steps helped me breakdown what tools I needed.
On my bench I have a note pad, pens & pencils. Pair of scissors & paper towel holder have been a nice touch. I also have a trash can handy.
Get some items to help clean up your press and bench. I use a small dust pan and wisk type brush. A baby bottle brush & tooth brush are useful. The "China Bristle" brushes are cheap, so get a few sizes like 1", 2", & 3".
I got some round nylon brushes used for pistol cleaning that I use to clean out dies periodically.
Go ahead and get some spare decapping pins. Rookies are more like to break them as the feel is not there yet. Make sure you have a shellholder if it is not included in you dies.
A scale is a must and trickler is nice. A set of check weights for the scale would be nice but is usually not in the new guys budget. Being able to check the scale will do wonders for letting you trust it.
A hand priming tool is something I like. It lets you feel the priming and your priming can be done when & where you want easily. The Lee tool uses a different shellholder than their press so dont get caught by that.
A way to clean brass is needed.

What calibers you looking to do?

Later,
WNTFW

 

[lgbloader]

Sorry about the spelling, Boys...

I've been drinking... ALOT!!!!

The fact it has no BBQ pit really killed it though. I gotta eat & would like to try some annealing.

Hey WNTFW,
The BBQ Pit is outside accessorizing the shooting range which goes all the way out to 1000 YDS.

But... please feel free to add on the accessories as you see it. After all, I am still drawing up the blue prints for this FN place.

LGB

 

[RandyP]

Hi Andrew,

Just started the hobby myself this year. Your question will be answered a lot by you reading the stickies and all the posts on this and other reloading forums. Yes there is homework -lol

What calibers will you be reloading? Pistol only? Rifle only? Both?

Straight wall pistol cases in a carbide die do not need any lube. No lube needed for plated or jacketed bullets.

A case tumbler and media will be a big help. Calipers and a scale are a must.

The brand of reloading equipment also dictates accessories needed. For example, no tools of any kind are needed with a set of Lee pistol dies.

 

[Historian]

Buy a copy of "The ABCs of Reloading" and memorize it. Also get at least a couple of good manuals...Lyman #49 seems to be a favorite around here. If you're married, don't forget to say good bye to your wife before you sit down at the bench. But before you start loading, read, read , read. You cannot know too much about this hobby and the more you know, the safer you will be and the more satisfied you will be with your ammo.

Historian

 

[AndrewKy]

What calibers will you be reloading? Pistol only? Rifle only? Both?

Both. I am wanting to start with .300 savage for my 99, 7.62x39 (higher end stuff) for my SKS, and a friend will be using my equipment too. He is going to load .223, .308, and a few other calibers.

Buy a copy of "The ABCs of Reloading" and memorize it.

I got one, but i didn't find it too helpful. Told me a bit about cartridges, a bit about supplies, and a bit about components. Nothing about the actual process of reloading...?

So, can anyone add to this list of stuff i will need:
Press
Chronograph
Dies
Deburring tool
Extra decapping pins
Scale
Trimmer
Powder trickler
Shellolders
Load Manual
Calipers
Hand primer

Where do i get bullet gauges, and what exactly do they do?

Thanks for your help so far guys, and keep it coming!
Andy

 

[ranger335v]

"..bullet gauge (test your product)."

I give up, what's a "bullet gauge" to test my product, and who makes one?

 

[Historian]

I think that you must be thinking of a case gauge. It is a metal replica of the chamber for the specific rifle you are loading. After you size a cartridge you slip it into the gauge to make certain that it is sized properly and that you have sized it to the proper head space. I also use a RCBS head space mic for checking bottle cases. It is very accuate in helping the set the resizing die so that you are sizing to the proper headspace. As far as sizing lube goes, I use Imperial Sizing Wax. It is easy to use, won't dent the shoulder of your cartidge if you use a little too much and lasts forever. I have loaded a couple of thousand .223s using it and I am still using the first tin I bought. After sizing, I throw the cases back into the tumbler for about an hour to remove the lube and put that final shine on the brass. I like 'em pretty.

Historian

 

[Floppy_D]

Honestly AndrewKy, it'll occur to you when you need something. I wish I had a list of stuff to start with, but I didn't. So when I realized I needed a tool, I picked it up. As long as you have a way to clean brass (tumbler, or manually) and lube your cases in addition to what you name, you're fine. I don't have a powder trickler, and I get by.

 

[AndrewKy]

"..bullet gauge (test your product)."

I give up, what's a "bullet gauge" to test my product, and who makes one?

No, really, it tests the end product? HOW DOES IT TEST!

As long as you have a way to clean brass (tumbler, or manually) and lube your cases

Okay, i can either make a case tumbler or buy one i guess, what is a good way to lube cases? And what is a good lube to start?
Thanks.

 

[jmahalek]

Sorry, case gauge is correct. It is a cylinder for a specific caliber - you put the finished product in it to test for fit. Quick way to check on the final dimensions.

 

[sargenv]

For case lube..

For pistols I use carbide dies and Hornady one shot aerosol. It is true that you don't "need" case lube when you have carbide dies, but man does it ever slick up the operation of the 650 I use. It also does not wear out my arm as fast. The One shot dries on the brass and I don't tumble it off.

For rifle brass I use Dillon spray on case lube. It is lanolin and alcohol based. I put my brass into a zip loc and spray a few squirts of Dillon lube in the bag and then work the brass so it gets lube all over. I then let the alcohol evaporate of and then run it through the sizing die. After I size them I either tumble the brass to remove the lube or I just load it and then tumble the ammo after I'm done. I only tumble it for about 15 mins, just to get the case lube off. Some people say it's dangerous, but I've not had any issues.

For high volume rifle ammo (usually 223/5.56) I spray the cases in the ziplock, then let the alcohol evap off then put them in the hopper of my 650. I runa decapping die on station 1, and the Dillon trimmer (which includes a sizing die) on station 4. Generally I process it all through, then tumble it to remove the lube, and then load them as normal back through the 650. I keep a decapping die on station 1 to make sure none of the tumbling grit is stuck inthe flash hole. Since I use boat tailed bullets, I don't need to chamfer the case mouths. If I were using flat based bullets, I'd have to chamfer the case mouths before I started loading them.

 

[JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone]

First, read this sticky.. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=238214

Inregards to case guage.. I've been reloading quite successfully for more than 25 years. Never used one. The chamber of your rifle is your guage.

You certainly don't NEED a chronograph. They are a nice toy once you get started and want to verify your reloading successes. But ceartainly not required.

"Manual" You will want more than one RELOADING MANUAL from a Bullet Manufacture. Read that as plural! You will learn more about the process from the Speer, Hornady and Sierra manuals than you will with the 'ABC's of Reloading'. Combine that with the manual of the press and dies you purchase should be enough to get you started. But the best experience you can participate in is with a friend that already reloads. Just one time through the process will open your eyes.

-Steve

 

[RustyFN]

The BBQ Pit is outside accessorizing the shooting range which goes all the way out to 1000 YDS.

LGB is that big enough for a lead pot or are you running a Magma caster? I almost forgot, when was I supposed to come over to load? I have some ribs and Paulaner Hefeweizen.

Rusty

 

[bullseye308]

Something not mentioned: A clear understanding that when you are loading, there should be no interruptions unless an emergency has occured. Maybe light music in the background just to break the silence, but that is a time to be undisturbed and undistracted. Lots at stake here.

I would also get some caliber specific loading blocks, some Imperial sizing wax(not one shot-seems lots more get stuck cases with that then most others), Comfortable and adjustable chair if you will be seated, thick matt to stand on if you will be on your feet a lot. Lots of storage for the components and finished product, And two of the most important things are safety glasses and a detailed log book to keep records in.

 

[JonB]

My short list when I started:

Lee Hand press - small, easy to use, very cost effective, albeit slower than a full size press
Dies for your calibers (mine were 223, 9mm 10mm)
Scale (i went with a small digital scale)
Powder tricker
Lee Hand prime tool w/ large and small primer capability
Powder trickler
A few loading blocks
Digital caliper
Case trimmers
Deburr/chamfer tool
Imperial sizing wax
Case tumbler w/ media (makes the cases shiny, removes dirt, etc)
And of course your components (powder, bullets, cases, primers)

I bought a couple of manuals - the Lyman and Lee version. A ton of load data is free from the powder/bullet manufacturer's websites. Also those single load books are nice. They are basically a compilation of a bunch of load data for a single caliber.

The Lee stuff is very nice for the price. The dies have a nice instruction sheet with them about how to set them correctly, etc.

My whole set up fits nicely in one of those Rubbermaid tubs which was one of the reasons I went for the hand press. I unfortunately don't get to shoot as much as I would like to so I can easily keep up with a hand press.

You don't have to spend a ton of cash on the high end stuff to get quality reloads.

 

[ChefJeff1]

Hi, I'm new to this too and got the Lee anniversary kit. It had almost everything needed but to do it right you will need a good set of calipers (check ebay for a good deal on a good one), case trimmer for each caliber, dies for each caliper,(38 special and .357 mag are easier to load if treated as 2 different calipers), a loading block, a way to store and label your reloaded ammo. that's about all i had to get afterward.