What are the factors in having a revolver grip up close to the trigger vs set back?

[C0untZer0]

I was looking at the Alfa Proj 9231 revolver and it looks like the middle finger can sit basically behind the trigger, there is probably a half inch space behind the trigger housing. If I look at the Charter Arms PITBULL in 9mm, it seems like the grip comes right up to the trigger guard. The middle finger, instead of being behind the trigger, would be below and at an angle.

I included another picture, that shows the difference side-by-side with two different Alfa-Proj revolvers.

Besides making for a long trigger reach, do these differences change the way the gun shoots ?

 

[Iggy]

It's a sight easier on the knuckle of your social finger if it ain't behind the trigger guard on a hard recoilin' gun.

That might keep you from developin' a flinch and not bein' able to hit nuthin'.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Excellent question!

With a heavy recoiling revolver, if the middle finger is right behind the trigger guard, or in contact with the trigger guard, then every time the gun recoils the trigger guard will whack your middle finger right on your knuckle. It hurts and after a few times you will develop a sizable flinch.

That is part of the reason modern revolver grips are shaped the way they are, to get the shooter's middle finger away from the trigger guard.

Like this:



Even the old Tyler T-Grips helped keep the trigger guard from whacking the knuckle.



With the typical Semi-Auto, the way the grip is shaped, it is impossible to get your finger behind the trigger guard, so it will never whack you.



But revolvers are different, most of the traditional designs will whack your knuckle very well if the gun has a relatively strong recoil.


This old 38 does not recoil very badly, so it does not whack me when I shoot it.





These 45s, on the other hand, will whack me real good if I grip them with my middle finger right behind the trigger guards.



Which is why I always tell new revolver shooters, forget what you learned about shooting the 1911. Forget about gripping it as high as possible to minimize muzzle flip. That is a great way to get a black and blue knuckle. With any Colt SAA style gun I NEVER try to cram my entire hand onto the grip. I ALWAYS allow my pinky to curl under the grip. That allows me to shift my grip down a bit, leaving about 1/4" or so of space between my knuckle and the trigger guard. I can shoot those Colts all day long with full house Black Powder loads, and it does not hurt a bit.


Being a traditionalist, I do not like modern grips on older revolvers. I prefer to keep the historically correct grips on them. With this Model 28, the gun is heavy enough to absorb most of the recoil and the trigger guard does not whack me.





But with a K frame 38 like this:




Or even a relatively mildly recoiling 44 Special like this I prefer to keep the correct grips on it and hang my pinky under the grip to keep from getting whacked.




Anyhoo, that's the deal with modern revolver grips that keep your fingers away from the trigger guard.

 

[MartinS]

Good stuff, thanks.

 

[C0untZer0]

Thanks guys

 

[shep854]

There's also the matter of hand size. For larger hands, the traditional smaller grips are hard to get a good, well 'grip' on and the gun can slide around in the hand as it recoils. This too can lead to knocked knuckles.
There's also the ability to comfortably engage the trigger (ie, 'length of pull'). Large-handed shooters benefit from grips that wrap around the backstrap, enabling a better contact with the trigger. No doubt you notice the difference with each of the guns you pictured.
My Google-fu was weak today, but there are firms that can make grips specific to your gun and your hand.
I have a T-grip to go with the skinny wood grip panels on my S&W 49. For me, this works perfectly. On my K- and N-frame revolvers, I still have the original-style as well; since they are larger, I can get a firm grip on them, though they do feel a little small to me.

 

[Twiki357]

I think it all depends on the individual. Personally, I had the bloody knuckle problem with grips that fill in the space behind the trigger guard. In the last few years, I've purchased 3 guns with the recycled tires for grips, a J frame and a N frame that each had Packmayr grips and a J frame with factory S&W rubber grips. The trigger guards on all 3 would gouge into my knuckle and were replaced with magna grips.

 

[Bikewer]

For years, coppers used devices like the Tyler T-Grip to fill that gap in S&W and Colt revolvers.
For many, it just felt weird... The middle finger unsupported. the larger "deluxe" Smith grips were somewhat better, but still lacking.

Bill Jordan, author of No Second PLace Winner, designed his own Jordan Trooper grips and had them produced by Herrett's.
I had a pair on my Smith M19, and they were the best DA combat Grips I ever had.
There was a broad, flat section under the middle finger, providing maximum support. The backstrap was re-configured to put the recoil into the palm, rather than the web of the hand, and the top-to-bottom taper of the Smith grips was gone. (All design features that have become fairly widespread in custom grips since)
Also, they were smooth.... Jordan being a fast-draw guy; he said that the smooth grip allowed "micro adjustments" as you drew the weapon.

 

[Dave T]

What are the factors in having a revolver grip up close to the trigger vs set back?

Almost totally dependent on the size of your hand and the length of your fingers. As mentioned above, it is very much up to the individual and their hand size and shape.

Dave

 

[bainter1212]

Great thread full of good info. Carry on