What brand/model is the best value in a "hammerless" .357/.38 revolver?

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plevniak

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This is for bedside and possible in-the-purse concealed carry. Light weight is NOT preferred. It's likely to be loaded with .38 ammo. Something with similar stats to this:

Hammerless design - Less to think about and less likely to snag.
.357 - Preferred for versatility and added weight to reduce felt recoil.
2" to 3" barrel - Something compact in size
Steel revolver - Light weight titanium need not apply.
Drop safe - All chambers loaded.
Decent Reputation

Bonus:
Stainless options instead of just blued
Low price
6 shot
No gimmicks - Built in lock, fancy sights.
Crimson trace laser grip compatible - Yep, right after I said no gimmicks. :)

My choice so far is a Taurus CIA 650.
Can you pick a better match?
 
Been doing this research lately also, Taurus is your price leader, Smith has the biggest following.

I was told not to worry about snagging from a purse with any hammered model snubbie. 3" revo was recommended for 357 recoil taming ability.
 
Hi,
In accordance with your desires, this would be my pick.
Shop around for a used S&W model 64.
Then I would have the hammer bobed.

A better choice but maybe a couple of dollars more would be a S&W model 686 in 2.5 inch. Pretty good from the factory and lots of aftermarket stuff to buy or have done to it later on.

Have a great day!
 
Best value six shot, perfectly serviceable, well made, but not as well finished as a Smith or Ruger, the Rossi 461, but it's not hammerless. You'll have to bob the hammer. It is the only snubby six shot currently made that I know of that's not on a K frame size.

I agree with the SP101, strongest, best design, well made gun, but a 5 shot and a little more money, but worth every penny if you have it.

They have a 605 Taurus at a local shop used for $325. I'm thinking about that one. BUT, they also have a 2.5" Smith and Wesson M66 there, a little larger and heavier, for $385 used. Hmmmm. Personally, I think the little Taurus is a little light, but I think I could shoot it okay with a Hogue grip on it. I have a M85UL with that little boot grip and it's fine with .38+P, but with magnums, I think I want more grip. The bigger grip is going to take it out of a pocket and if I'm going to carry IWB, what the hey, a six shot Smith K frame will be easier to shoot and have a little more sight radius.

You might ask yourself some of these questions, too. A K frame size gun with a 2.5 or 3" barrel is about as easy to carry as an SP101 in my experience. I have a 3" Taurus 66 and a 2.3" SP101 and I've carried both. The Taurus has an extra round, weighs MAYBE 4 or 5 ounces more, and just a little more grip. It's a lot more comfortable to shoot and the sight radius is a little longer so it's a little more accurate. All up to you what you want, though. I really don't see any .357 as a pocket gun at this point. In order for a gun to be light enough and compact enough for ME to pocket carry it, well, it's gonna have to be a .38 to be shootable. Now, a .357 can shoot .38, no problem, but why carry the extra weight and spend the extra money if you ain't gonna fire .357 in it?

I'm still struggling with these issues, myself, LOL!
 
I, too, would vote for the Ruger SP-101. If you must have 6 shot capacity there is always the Colt Magnum Carry which has been out of production for a while and is somewhat pricey but one hears of decent deals from time to time. The Colt would need the hammer bobbed. I believe the 2.5" K frames weigh about 8 oz more than the Ruger. They would be a bit bigger dimension wise. If you could live with a .38 SP than the Colt D frame in various incarnations is lighter than the K frame.
 
Is there a current production revolver out there now without an internal lock of some kind?

It really depends on what you are looking for and how you plan to carry. Personally I like S&W J-frames, but I won't buy one with a lock. For belt carry, a used S&W 19 or 66 with a 2 1/2" barrel or a S&W 13 or 65 with a 3" barrel would be my choice. For pocket carry, I think you are limited to the smaller frame guns, S&W J-frames and Taurus clones. Personally I like S&W revolvers much better, but if faced with only internal lock gun choices, I'd get the Taurus, I think its design is prone to lock failure than the S&W.
 
I have a DAO SP101 and an S&W 640 (.38). Had a 342Sc in .357 but would not risk my hand to fire .357s in it.

For light weight, go S&W and load with .38+P; for robust-last forever-take any load-run over with a truck reliability, go Ruger.

Had a Taurus CIA. Seized up with heavy .357 loads and sometimes got light strikes/FTF. I would not bet my life on a Taurus - I've had 5 different Taurus revolvers and not one was reliable.
 
I'd drop the hammerless requirement and get the 3" Ruger GP100, myself.

Next would be to drop the hammerless requirement as well as the 6 shot requirement and get the S&W model 60, 3" if possible.

Both of the above are available in stainless.

For the described use hammerless is kind of a waste of time and money. It is also a feature most usually (not always) found on light weight carry guns. Since you're not planning on carrying this gun, why limit your choices and pay more for the privilege? You could even go for a 4", which is fine for home defense.

-- Sam
 
Got a Taurus 650, goes bang everytime I pull the trigger. A little rough on the hand with magnum loads but pleasant to shoot with +P's, which is more than adequate. Trigger needs to be lightened up a bit, a little hard to pull and by the way, it's a 5 shot. A good through the pocket gun.
 
Oh, I wanted to add: Having just purchased a 642 that had to go back to S&W after the 3rd range trip (trigger not resetting, light strikes), I'm beginning to lose my interest in new S&Ws. If it came down to it again I'd probably buy a new Taurus rather than a new S&W. The Taurus lock is a better design, and the products from two companies are otherwise about equal quality wise these days. Why pay extra for the S&W name? FWIW, I have 4 other S&Ws that I absolutely love, but they're older, pre-lock, pre-MIM guns. In fact, I just received the latest of those last week (4" 25-5 .45 Colt). I also have two Taurii and have not had a problem with either. I did have one Taurus model 94 .22 revo that I was not thrilled with, but I sold it off at no loss.

-- Sam
 
Thanks. More clarification.

There's no 6 shot requirement. That would just be a bonus feature. 5 shots is enough.

The hammerless requirement is absolute. I have to cut down on the likelihood of the operator fiddling with it and any chance of snagging in a purse. The weight of the gun is not a big issue. It's near the bottom. The less gadgets to operate and maintain on the gun the better. I'd rather do without internal locks too.

Oh yeah, the smaller the frame of the gun the better.
 
'What brand/model is the best value in a "hammerless" .357/.38 revolver? '

The used, pre lock S&W j-frame kind.
 
the 642 has a lock, but my 2 has never failed to operate.
100% reliable and no problems.

just realized this is the opposite of what you re looking for....lightweight, lock and 5 rounds.

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Pre-lock S&W 640-3 will give you an internal hammer five shot all stainless steel .357 Mag. If I had to have it quick though I'd order a new DAO bobbed hammer Ruger SP-101. Get the CT grips factory if available as this will save you versus buying them later.
 
A Ruger SP101 (25 oz) or a S&W M640 (23 oz) would probably be a good choices. The S&W M649 isn't a bad choice either if you like the Bodyguard frame like I do.

Rossi makes a 6 round .357 Magnum snub nose which weighs 26 oz. It's a high gloss Stainless revolver with a 2" barrel and it looks like the grips are Pachmayr. Unfortunately you will have to bob the hammer since they only make one model. see it Here:
 
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