What can I shoot out of my 38 special for lighter kick?

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The Winchester white box stuff is extremely mild. You should probably get a bigger gun if you have trouble with the recoil.

What you could also consider is a .32 mag revolver. The J-frames can fit 6 of them.
 
re:

Hello -

I am a long time lurker (years) and hardly ever post but I have a couple of questions for the people that shot Mastercast's 100gr DEWC reloaded ammunition.

1) How acurate were they from a 4" revolver?

2) Were there any signs of excessive leading?

I am looking to place an order for 1,000 cartridges in the nex week.

Thanks.
 
I forget who make them but there is a plastic practice round. You hand press a primer into the plastic case and hand press the plastic bullet into the case. The bullets are reuseable and the load is suitable for indoor practice.

John

I don't know if they still do, but Speer used to market such a thing. You bought the cases and bullets and supplied a primer.

I tried them once when I was bullseye shooting. I had a 10 meter international air pistol range built in my basement complete with target returner. So I thought to try to practice with a firearm using those things. As I recall the bullet was so light that it would corkscrew or tumble and go every which-a-way except toward the ten ring. Gave that up pretty quick. Porbably still have the silly things here someplace.
 
Buy a ruger SP101 either 2" or 3", add Pachmyr Compaq grips, and start over with the .38 wadcutters and you'll have a grin from one ear to the other.

The airweights are great to carry but can be punishing to shoot. Are you using this for CCW? Could you handle a heavier gun like the Ruger? The weight really does tame the recoil.

I have an airweight 642 and a Ruger sp101 in 3" with the grips I mentioned. One can actually hurt with a stout +p .38, the other is like shooting something more than a .22 mag. Now I can shoot +p's in the Ruger and they're great and can even shoot mild .357's without any real problem. Full power or hot .357's still are a handful thought :eek:

Is this for range, home, car? Get the Ruger 3". If it's for carry and you carry OWB or IWB, get the 2" Ruger DAO.

God Bless
Gideon
 
Hi,

Just a couple of suggestions.

1. If you have original wood stocks on your Airweight, I STRONGLY recommend the addition of a Tyler T-grip . . . just like those in the know used in the '70s and '80s. They are still in production and truly tame an Airweight's kick well. Frankly, I prefer this set up much better than the Uncle Mike's "rubbers" that are sold to reduce recoil.

Here's a Tyler on my 1971 Model 37 Airweight. Any load I've shot with this set up is comfortable.

2328567IMG0121e.jpg



2. GRIP THE REVOLVER AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE . . . and grip it FIRMLY! The web of your shooting hand needs to be as high on the horn as possible. This places the gun's boreline as close to your hand-arm-shoulder line as possible. This reduces muzzle flip a lot, and the energy is pushed right down the hand and arm and absorbed by the body.

I see so many shooters gripping their handguns low. It makes their guns kick like heck . . . and also greatly slows down their followup shots. Go to some handgun competitions and you'll see that the ones who shoot well and fast grip the handguns very high . . . reducing muzzle flip and allowing one to shoot fast enough to WIN.

Yep, an Airweight can be comfortable to shoot with the proper grip.

Hope this helps!

T.
 
Get a Grip

I have to agree with S&W Fan here. Instead of reducing your .38 loads learn to control what you have. The Tyler grip is an excellent addition to small grips and aids greatly in controlling even +p loads. FWIW,recoil isn't something that I associate with the .38sp.(I shoot a S&W Model 36 and a Taurus Model 85 airweight).
 
38

I have an airweight and shoot it but I never was into heavy loads.I load my own.HBWC 2.8 gr 700X.thats the standard target load.I load HBWC are hornady.mine is 38 stock.:rolleyes: :D
 
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