What case trimmer do you use?

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When I first started assembling tools and components for reloading, the one thing that seemed out of whack for what you got for what it cost was the case trimmers. At least the high end bench kind. Then found out about the simple Lee trimmers, and that is what I went with. These........

https://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-270-win.html

But there is one thing about them that baffles me. They all show a range of possible case lengths....in the case of the 270 Win......2.520 to 2.540. Max length as per SAMMI specs is 2.540. Trim to length is 2.530. When used on 270 Win, if screwed in until the case gauge stops on cutter head, how can you go further? Mine trims to 2.380......every single time.

Instructions are silent on this part.
 
The Lyman trimmer has the cam lock system.
Set it to what ever case length you want and go with it.
 
Rcbs Trim Pro - 2 for small batches....

Lyman Case Trim Express for larger batches ( mostly .223 )....can be used for bottlenecked brass only....
 
I second or third or whatever for the Frankford arsenal trimmer. I love it. It is very sensitive to get set, but once you do, it's off to the races.
 
I really like the Forster for cheap and versatile. I have others I use more often but I can step out to the shop and machine a pilot for anything in a couple minutes and be able to trim it.

The Wilson trimmer is my favorite that is not progressive press mounted but you have to have case holders for every different case. So what a single .308 caliber pilot could do on the Forster turns into, 300 WM, 30-06, 308, 30-30, 300bk,…number of shell holders but they do a fine job.
 
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1973 Lyman Universal here. Mine is a gray color. Have used Lee pilot type, but not much anymore
 
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I used to use a Lyman trimmer I bought new 15-20 years ago when I first got into reloading. I never got consistent results with that one, and replaced it with the Redding 2400. I'm quite surprised that I'm the first in the thread to mention the Redding 2400. Micrometer adjustments, comes with six pilots to cover most cartridges, and just simply oozes quality. It runs about $225 currently, so not a budget choice, but it's also not in Giraud territory either.
 
I am looking for a case trimmer that wont cost an arm & leg. Thought about the lee quick trim die but that seems like a giant mess. Mainly doing 223/5.56 and the occasional 45-70 or 44mag for uniformity.

I use the FA Case Trim & Prep machine for trimming .223/5.56 range fodder, .30-30, and .308. It was cheap, handles everything I need it to, and is pretty close to idiot proof. I realize there are more consistent/accurate trimmers out there, but it does everything I need it to do.

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Platinum-Hardened-Scrapers/dp/B00HS7JEB4



 
Lyman Universal from years ago. Like mentioned above, it's gray. Bought it in the early 1970's at the original Gart's Sports in Denver for $22 according to the price tag still on the box. Re-bushed it 3 or 4 years ago. I've got the power turn shaft in it and use my small cordless drill. Carbide cutter head. It's trimmed thousands of pieces of brass. I like things that last a long time with proper care.

I do have an old C&H trimmer, but it's more for the collectability than anything else.
 
I use a WFT trimmer and a L.E.Wilson/Sinclair International trimmer.

The WFT trimmer is unique for one or a small family of cartridges so it can get expensive if you need to trim lots of different cartridges.

The Wilson trimmer uses a cartridge specific case holder. They are fairly economical. Sinclair International makes a base, case holder, a couple other accessories for the Wilson trimmer that make the trimmer more convenient to use.

upload_2021-12-19_21-52-57.jpeg
 
If that holds the case like I think it does, that looks like a nightmare to pump out rounds at any decent volume... But it looks bulletproof enough to last several lifetimes.

It's actually about as quick as any others of that pattern. It has a screw and a horseshoe deal to keep the holder in place instead of the Wilson lever. Loosen the screw and slide the horseshoe out of the way and remove the case holder. Not a big deal. I have only played with it a bit. Not something I would use actually. I bought it because I like old stuff. I get the impression that it was made to do a few cases every once in a while. I use power with my Lyman because I don't feel like screwing around since I trim all cases after every firing. As far as I am concerned, hand cranking is not made for high volume.
 
I use the FA Case Trim & Prep machine for trimming .223/5.56 range fodder, .30-30, and .308. It was cheap, handles everything I need it to, and is pretty close to idiot proof. I realize there are more consistent/accurate trimmers out there, but it does everything I need it to do.

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Platinum-Hardened-Scrapers/dp/B00HS7JEB4
Mine arrived yesterday. Setup was a breeze and it works very well. I think it will be an efficient machine for me.
 
I like the WFT, but if you do a lot of calibers it’s going to get expensive. Think I’m going to order the FA case trim and prep center. I have a Lee that I use to trim some low volume straight wall cases.
 
If that holds the case like I think it does, that looks like a nightmare to pump out rounds at any decent volume... But it looks bulletproof enough to last several lifetimes.

At least the L.E.Wilson trimmer goes pretty quick. Maybe not as quick as a Giraud, but about the same as a WFT and lots easier on the hands.

The hold down lever for the case holder is adjusted to hold the case holder just by swinging it over the case holder. The CH trimmer hold down system may be not as quick as the Wilson/Sinclair system but once you get in the groove, things will go smoothly.

Getting the case in and out of the case holder is easy and quick. It really does not take much force to get the case to "stick" in the holder. Wilson says to tab the base of the case to get it in the case holder then tap the case mouth to remove it. That is what the piece of white UHMW polyethylene is for on base in post #38.

Tapping on the case mouth does not sit well with me so I made a block that I can use a punch down the case mouth to tap on the inside of the case base.
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