What diameter bullet for .38 Special?

[.308 Norma]

Thank you for all your hepful suggestions. So I plan to order a measuring device. Should I order a Caliper or Micrometer?

Both are good, but calipers are easier to use and plenty precise enough for reloading purposes when used properly.

I have both, and I use my dial caliper at least 10 times as often as I use my micrometer. As higgite said, a good caliper is "plenty precise enough" for what you're going to use it for, sonora.

 

[sonora]

I load 038 .357 lead at 357 dia. never a problem, HBWC, DEWC, semi WC. RNFP,RNL,

I'm using .358 coated, if I stepped down to .357 I'm sure my problem would solved. If I do step it down would accuracy suffer, would leading be a problem? I'm going to order a Caliper(Hornady). Then I will be able to measure bullet diameter, case wall thickness and measure loaded case dimensions.

 

[Walkalong]

I have both, and I use my dial caliper at least 10 times as often as I use my micrometer

Me too, good calipers can do 90+% of what we need for reloading

 

[Jim Watson]

I'm using .358 coated, if I stepped down to .357 I'm sure my problem would solved. If I do step it down would accuracy suffer, would leading be a problem?

This is what my old boss called a "ned question."
We don't know.
The only way to find out the performance of a .357" bullet in YOUR GUN is to shoot some and see.
Frex, my antique .38-44 was most accurate with a swaged 9mm Speer .356" in a nominal .361" barrel.

In MY revolvers, a .357" coated bullet is as accurate as I can hold and does not break through the coating and lead the barrel.

 

[earplug]

If your loading heavy or long bullets deep into the case your brass may have a heavy web that is bulging. Some brands of brass are using cut down .357 brass to save tooling costs. Some brands of brass won't work with my flush seated 148 LWC bullets. A cheap set of calipers is better then none. Mark a couple of loaded cartridges with a felt tip pen. Load and eject them. You should be able to see what is rubbing where.
A soft .357 PC lead bullet should work in a pinch if you can't get .358 to chamber easily.

 

[AJC1]

Do you have the ability to size the bullets. The easiest test would be to run the bullet through something like a lee sizing die. Make sure the bullets are round and the correct size. My next step would be loading a few different brands of brass to see if that helps. Then check your seating then expanding processes.

 

[sonora]

Do you have the ability to size the bullets. The easiest test would be to run the bullet through something like a lee sizing die. Make sure the bullets are round and the correct size. My next step would be loading a few different brands of brass to see if that helps. Then check your seating then expanding processes.

I may try to standardize my brass and see if I can order some Starline brass. If available.

 

[Bazoo]

I'd bet the PC is causing problems. Either the bullets were coated after sizing, and that bumped up the size enough to cause trouble, or maybe the forward driving band is now too tall and hitting the chamber shoulders.

Remington brass is thinnest I've found and would likely help matters.


I like calipers, RCBS is my brand. A mic is okay, but not nearly as useful for everyday loading.

 

[Bazoo]

Another thought, if you didn't trim you brass, or measure it to sort length, Perhaps you set the crimp on a short piece, and then, all the longer ones have an over crimp.

 

[AJC1]

I'd bet the PC is causing problems. Either the bullets were coated after sizing, and that bumped up the size enough to cause trouble, or maybe the forward driving band is now too tall and hitting the chamber shoulders.

Remington brass is thinnest I've found and would likely help matters.


I like calipers, RCBS is my brand. A mic is okay, but not nearly as useful for everyday loading.

I havent seen the bullets but a sloppy PC job would definitely cause issues. I try and make mine thin maintaining complete coverage, but sharp bullet features.

 

[.45Coltguy]

If the bulge is symmetrical, that's fine. Indicates good neck tension. Odds are it will fit in a chamber.
If the bulge where the bottom of the bullet meets the brass is assymetrical, that's where it would probably not fit into a chamber.
If your bulges are assymetrical:
1.Check to make sure the shape of your seater stem best fits the bullet profile, and that your not using say a round nose profile for a LSWC or vise-versa.
2. Make sure you have enough belling (case expansion) so the bullet sits straight initially.
3. If you're using once fired brass, or mixed lot/headstamps it's a good idea to trim to make sure you have all the same OALs so all of your actual inputs are the same.

I'd like to add this: How are you crimping? Seater/crimp at the same time? I crimp seperatly with a Lee Factory Crimp die. An extra step yes, but, makes my handloading waaay easier. Just a thought.

 

[forrest r]

Interesting advice as usual. Impressive that reloads don't have anything that actually measures what they are working with. And if they do knowing when to use what tool to measure things with is always interesting.

Micrometer VS Calipers

I've always used calipers when measuring anything that had a +/ .003" or larger target measurement.
.002" either tool
Less then .002" break out the calipers

Not saying this is correct, it's just been the protocol that I had to use with different qc and machine shop jobs over the years.

Odd that you see people talking about check weights for the scales all the time on this website. Yet there's nothing about gauge blocks. These things pictured below tend to come in handy to calibrate the tool your trying to measure things with.


Square gauges also come in handy. I like to use them to check/calibrate the calipers when measuring oal's of the reloads.


Owning a tool is 1 thing, knowing how to use it is another & knowing the tool your using is calibrated/correct is priceless.

Anyway back to the original question. How do you know what bullet diameter to use???

The best thing to do is drop those bullets in the cylinder of the firearm you're trying to reload for. If they don't drop thru, the bullets are too big. See you don't need any tools to find that 1 out. In a perfect world the bullets should have to be pushed thru with minimal force from something like a pencil. Minimal force to some people/neanderthals (the me got pen crowd) isn't in their vocabulary. Take a postage stamp and turn it over, glue side up. Wet your index finger tip and a lightly as you can place it on the glue of that postage stamp using just enough force to get the stamp to stick.

Once you get something to measure with you need to slug the cylinders and then measure the slugs from the tight fit of pounding the slugs thru. This is how you find the "max" diameter of the bullets you should use.

Myself I find that "max" diameter and hone my sizing dies .0002" smaller. And yes back in the day I ran .356" bullets in the colts, .357" in 1 s&w and .358" in all the rest.

I still say save your money on buying measuring tools and simply buy a lee fcd die and run the offending ammo (actually all the ammo) thru it. You never have any issues again after the "post sizing".

 

[Walkalong]

Most reloaders don't need machine shop accuracy from their calipers or micrometers, and as you know, it takes a lot of practice to measure to the nearest .0001 consistently, but again, we rarely need that for reloading, and lots of people reload safely and effectively with rudimentary measuring tools.

 

[Walkalong]

I still say save your money on buying measuring tools and simply buy a lee fcd die and run the offending ammo (actually all the ammo) thru it. You never have any issues again after the "post sizing".

Lots of people do, and everyone here know how I feel about the famous Lee carbide ring FCD.

 

[koz4guns]

If your loading heavy or long bullets deep into the case your brass may have a heavy web that is bulging. Some brands of brass are using cut down .357 brass to save tooling costs. Some brands of brass won't work with my flush seated 148 LWC bullets.

I agree with this.
You don’t say what style of bullet you are using SWC, HBWC or DEWC or if it is the same type as you previously loaded.

 

[H&R Glock]

I agree with Walkalong. I had the same problem with chambering. It all seems to be related to the various and sundry brass I am using. Some of it is hard and some soft. Some thick and some thin.Some long and short. Stir into it a variety of bullets and you have intermittent hard chambering. I finally bought a Lee factory crimp die and that solved all of my problems. Try a Lee on for size!

 

[sonora]

I agree with this.
You don’t say what style of bullet you are using SWC, HBWC or DEWC or if it is the same type as you previously loaded.

158 Gr. SWC coated. (.358 ) 4.5 Gr.of Unique

 

[unwashed]

I would bet it's the brass, had the same thing happen in my 9mm, CBC brass, bullet bulge and some failed to chamber. Switched brass, no issue now.

 

[Walkalong]

I might be lucky, or not have any tight chambered .38s, but I load a varied mix of range brass in .38 Spl and have had no issues, plated, jacketed, coated.......no FCD.

 

[sonora]

I would bet it's the brass, had the same thing happen in my 9mm, CBC brass, bullet bulge and some failed to chamber. Switched brass, no issue now.

Interesting, I loading CBC range brass.

 

[.45Coltguy]

I might be lucky, or not have any tight chambered .38s, but I load a varied mix of range brass in .38 Spl and have had no issues, plated, jacketed, coated.......no FCD.

LOL! I get you don't like the Lee FCD. Some do. It's whatever floats our boat. Right? Have a good evening.

 

[AJC1]

Interesting advice as usual. Impressive that reloads don't have anything that actually measures what they are working with. And if they do knowing when to use what tool to measure things with is always interesting.

Micrometer VS Calipers

I've always used calipers when measuring anything that had a +/ .003" or larger target measurement.
.002" either tool
Less then .002" break out the calipers

Not saying this is correct, it's just been the protocol that I had to use with different qc and machine shop jobs over the years.

Odd that you see people talking about check weights for the scales all the time on this website. Yet there's nothing about gauge blocks. These things pictured below tend to come in handy to calibrate the tool your trying to measure things with.
View attachment 1039084

Square gauges also come in handy. I like to use them to check/calibrate the calipers when measuring oal's of the reloads.
View attachment 1039085

Owning a tool is 1 thing, knowing how to use it is another & knowing the tool your using is calibrated/correct is priceless.

Anyway back to the original question. How do you know what bullet diameter to use???

The best thing to do is drop those bullets in the cylinder of the firearm you're trying to reload for. If they don't drop thru, the bullets are too big. See you don't need any tools to find that 1 out. In a perfect world the bullets should have to be pushed thru with minimal force from something like a pencil. Minimal force to some people/neanderthals (the me got pen crowd) isn't in their vocabulary. Take a postage stamp and turn it over, glue side up. Wet your index finger tip and a lightly as you can place it on the glue of that postage stamp using just enough force to get the stamp to stick.

Once you get something to measure with you need to slug the cylinders and then measure the slugs from the tight fit of pounding the slugs thru. This is how you find the "max" diameter of the bullets you should use.

Myself I find that "max" diameter and hone my sizing dies .0002" smaller. And yes back in the day I ran .356" bullets in the colts, .357" in 1 s&w and .358" in all the rest.

I still say save your money on buying measuring tools and simply buy a lee fcd die and run the offending ammo (actually all the ammo) thru it. You never have any issues again after the "post sizing".

Good guage blocks are expensive and if I'm recommending a standard for reloading it's a guage pin that is in the range they need. I trust my calipers down to .001 but if its important I'll take several measurements to be sure. Anything in the fourth decimal is a micrometer and temprature stabilized inside for at least an hour.

 

[.38 Special]

With cast bullets, I believe that .0005 over throat size is ideal. With a mild cartridge like the .38, .001 is fine - especially if using a soft bullet.

If such bullets do not chamber, something else is wrong - like too much crimp, or a crud ring in the chamber, or maybe lead/plastic/copper shavings resulting from inadequate case mouth belling.

I can't imagine handloading without a dial caliper. Even the cheapest ones are far superior to guessing and hoping.

 

[AJC1]

With cast bullets, I believe that .0005 over throat size is ideal. With a mild cartridge like the .38, .001 is fine - especially if using a soft bullet.

If such bullets do not chamber, something else is wrong - like too much crimp, or a crud ring in the chamber, or maybe lead/plastic/copper shavings resulting from inadequate case mouth belling.

I can't imagine handloading without a dial caliper. Even the cheapest ones are far superior to guessing and hoping.

For shame, what do you mean hope isnt a plan....

 

[Bcwitt]

I have often used .355 dia fmj intended for 9x19. I size the case w 38s die, a partial size w a 9mm sizer, then seat & crimp w 38s die. Sometimes a taper crimp w 9mm seater i is nessesary also. 115 gr 9mm is often the most available bullet.