What dies do I need with this press?

[Kali]

Hey all,

The gf asked me what I want for christmas, and I'm going to tell her to get me this. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/42...reech-lock-single-stage-press-anniversary-kit

I know nothing about reloading, but I want to tell her to order some dies too so I can get started right away, I just don't know which dies. It will be strictly for .357 and .38

If you could point me in the direction of the simplest dies to order with this system, then she can order them and ill have between now and the 25th to learn what the hell I'm doing.

Thanks!
Ryan

 

[Thedub88]

I believe you can use what ever brand you want

 

[Kali]

Ive seen some sets with 4 dies, 3 dies, etc. Also there are single dies for sale. Just wondering how many are crucial to the operation.

 

[jcwit]

As others have said, any brand,

I know nothing about reloading, but I want to tell her to order some dies too so I can get started right away, I just don't know which dies. It will be strictly for .357 and .38

Buy a couple of manuals and READ them.

 

[cfullgraf]

Ive seen some sets with 4 dies, 3 dies, etc. Also there are single dies for sale. Just wondering how many are crucial to the operation.

Generally, dies for handgun cartridges contain three dies, a sizer die, an expander die and a seater/crimp die.

Rifle cartridges, primarily bottle neck cases, have only two dies, a sizer die and a seater/crimp die. Mouth expansion is done in the sizer die as the case is withdrawn from the die.

Those normal die sets are all that is needed to get started.

Die sets with more than the above normal contain dies that do something different. Some rifle die sets include a neck sizer die. Some die sets will include a crimp only die that allows the reloader to crimp in a separate step from seating.

Individual dies are available for replacement items or are dies that perform some tasks differently from standard dies. Some reloaders will buy additional duplicates of individual dies so that they can be set up for different presses, different bullet seating, resizing for different rifles, or other specialized tasks.

Make sense?

Most of the hard cover reloading manuals, Lyman, Speer, Sierra Bullets, Hornady and others, have excellent discussions on reloading and what equipment is required and what they do. "ABCs of Reloading" is an excellent reference as well.

 

[BADUNAME37]

READ A MANUAL OR TWO (or three)......

I agree with others in that you should purchase a good reloading manual that explains all the processes of reloading.

Most manuals like that will be hard cover (not always) and most times, the instructions on how to reload, what equipment to use, the different stages or steps required, etc. are in the front 1/4 of the manual -- followed by all kinds of reloading recipes for different calibers.

I have an old Lyman Manual that goes really extensively into just about anything you would run into when reloading. Look for something like that and read, read, read.

 

[Sport45]

I know nothing about reloading, but I want to tell her to order some dies too so I can get started right away, I just don't know which dies. It will be strictly for .357 and .38

Get the Lee 4-die .38 special set. It will do both. It may be marketed as a .38/.357 combination set.

That'll get you started with a minimal investment and unless you're a world class pistol marksman the reloaded ammo will be good enough.

 

[Blue68f100]

What ever dies you get, get Carbide. These do not require the use of a lube. I like the Hornady Dies over Lee and RCBS. Redding is nice but pricy.

You should not need the Lee FCD, if your doing every thing right. This die can cause more problems than it fixes. Just stay with the std 3 die set from Hornady or RCBS. I've been reloading for over 35yr and still see no use for it.

 

[Bmac1949]

You'll be good to go with either the 3 or four pistol die sets from one of the major manufactures. As already stated the most important thing for you right now is to get hold of a reloading manual and start learning about the process of reloading. Most of your questions will be answered in the manual and you'll get a better understanding of the equipment that you'll need. I've been reloading for a year and have found that many of the guys in this forum have an amazing knowledge base about reloading and firearms in gereral and are more than happy to help us newbies out. So, good luck, be safe and welcome to the world of reloading.

 

[gpb]

As others have mentioned, get a couple of good reloading manuals and read them.

When you order your dies don't forget to order a shell holder.

 

[rcmodel]

Lee dies come with a shell holder.
Other brands don't.

Here is the set you need.
http://leeprecision.com/xcart/3-DIE-SET-38SP-CARBIDE.html

rc

 

[towboat_er]

thumbs up .....rcmodel

 

[fpgt72]

you will need that holder for many things, my Lyman case trimmer requires a shell holder.

I always ask why are lee's stuff worse then (insert brand here) and I never get real answers.

 

[cfullgraf]

I always ask why are lee's stuff worse then (insert brand here) and I never get real answers.

Here is one opinion.

Some Lee stuff is good. I use their trimming system. Easy to use, well made, consistent results.

Their single and turret presses are well made. But, i do not expect my single stage presses will ever wear out.

The Lee dies, except for their die lock rings, are good. When I stopped buying Lee dies in the 90s, it cost as much to buy Lee dies and replace the lock rings and storage boxes as the cost to by other manufacturers die sets. Easier to do one stop shopping.

The Auto Prime tools are good hand priming tools. Used them for decades until Lee put primer restriction on them. For safety concerns, I bought another brand and did not wait for the improved Auto Prime..

I had a Perfect Powder measure and it never worked well. It's operation was too sticky and it was too difficult to get it dialed in. I did like the feature that allowed you to turn off the powder flow. The Perfect powder measure just does not compare to my Uniflow, Redding 10-X, Hornady L-N-L or Midway Indispensable powder measures.

In my opinion the shot shell loader is kind of cheesy. But, i will admit, I have never used one. Just by comparing it to my Mec 600 Jr's.

 

[Kali]

thanks for all the help

 

[Josh45]

Any brand will work as long as the threads are the same. In most cases, They all are.
If you want to load up .38/.357, I would get the dies labeled as so. Which I did and I can load either one with minor adjustments.

If you get the one that says .357 only, You will not be able to load .38 with them to what I have read and been told. So make sure you get the ones that say .38/.357 on them. Get the Carbide dies. I have carbide for all of my calibers on none of them require lubing. The steel dies do require it.

I also have to agree with the others about getting a manual. Reloading is fun and very enjoyable and you want to get started right away but you can't without knowing what to do first. Look up your library and see f they have ABC of Reloading and grab it. Read it as much as you can so you can get a better idea on what needs to be done.

Then, Buy about 2 manuals. The Lyman 49th is highly recommended by many.

 

[BYJO4]

All your major companies make good dies. I use RCBS as this is what I started with years ago. You definitely want a carbide sizer. Since you are loading 38/357, bullet seating and roll crimping is done at the same time and all you need is a carbide 3 die set.

 

[Lost Sheep]

As long as you are getting a Lee press, you might as well get Lee dies. Anybody's dies will do (except a very few exceptions), as the industry has settled on a standard 7/8" x 14 thread dimensions. (edit) Thanks to CHALK22 -Post #21- for pointing our my blunder, I mistakenly put 1 1/4" x 14, which is nonsense. I don't know where I came up with that number. My apologies.)

The 4-die Deluxe set has

1) Sizing/decapping (depriming) die
2) case mouth belling die (which, on the Lee brand also allows you to charge gunpowder right through the hollow die with a funnel)
3) bullet seating die
4) crimping die

the 3-die set has

1) Sizing/decapping (depriming) die
2) case mouth belling die (which, on the Lee brand also allows you to charge gunpowder right through the hollow die with a funnel)
3) combination bullet seating and crimping die

Since you are using a single stage press, you can cut your reloading time by 25% with the 3-die set vs the 4-die set. The trade-off is that the 4-die set is marginally easier to set up and can produce a stronger crimp (if you want it) without causing the case mouth to dig into the bullet sides.

The 3-die set is cheaper by $10-15, too.

Not often mentioned is that the primary action of the 4-die set can be emulated by the three die set by the simple expedient of seating with the combo seat-crimp die in one operation (you just back the body of the die out a bit to prevent any crimping action and adjust the seating stem for the first pass and then back the seating stem out and just crimp with the die body for the second pass).

Lee's 4th die (The FCD, or Factory Crimp Die) has a secondary function, that of "post sizing" or resizing the cartridge to precise SAAMI specs after the other operations are done. This is really seldom necessary, and usually only if something else has gone wrong (e.g. oversized bullet bulging the case or overenthusiastic crimp causing some mis-shaping of the case). Using a 3-die set to emulate the 4-die set does not give you this secondary function. But many handloaders do not like this function anyway and go so far as to remove the post-sizing ring.

Yes, do get the Carbide dies. Only the sizing die (and the FCD if you get it) have carbide parts, but the convenience of the carbide is well worth the small added cost. With tool steel, you have to lubricate your cases, which means you have to clean the lube off afterwards. Two added steps, a little bit of mess and added cost for the lube and a lube pad to spread it with (unless you use your fingers or one of the spray lubes). Take the advice. Get the so-called Tungsten-Carbide dies. Or the Titanium Nitride coated dies from Redding.

My advice: Get Lee. Lee also includes the cartridge's proper shell holder. All the other makers sell them separately for $6 to $10.

Always wear eye protection, especially when working with primers and don't pinch your fingers in your press.

Good Luck, thanks for asking our advice.

Lost Sheep

 

[thump_rrr]

I'm fairly new to reloading but I've amassed quite a bit of stuff in the last year.

I have dies from Lee, Hornady, and RCBS.

None of them seem to be any better than the others.

What some have failed to mention is that Lee Dies use a decapping die that will slip if you encounter a berdan primed case or some other obstruction while others will break.

The Hornady dies are a little longer than the Lee dies and leave a little more room for adjustment in my Hornady LnL AP Progressive.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I agree you can buy any dies you choose and they will fit in your press. I would highly recommend Carbide dies for your handgun calibers and I would also recommend Lee dies because they work well and they are cost effective. Most of my dies are made by Lee and they all make very good and accurate ammo for less money than the others.

 

[CHALK22]

Lost Sheep, isn't the standard dies size 7/8"-14? I just don't want him going around looking for dies that wont fit anything he owns/will own.

Also, I buy/use Lee dies exclusively when I am not using a few other brands that have been given to me for free. I started out with Lee, and while my presses have gotten bigger/more expensive, I learned a ton while using Lee products and will never hesitate to recommend them.

 

[kludge]

Get this kit instead.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/12...ock-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=S016ID423081

Might get cheaper shipping here:

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cf...rodTitle=Lee Breech Lock Challenger Press Kit

The press will use any standard dies. For starters, get the Lee 4-die "Cabide" die set, which comes with the separate crimp die, which I like very much for revolver loads, especially magnum loads.

Dies:

http://www.natchezss.com/brand.cfm?...itle=Lee 38 Special/357 Mag Carbide 4 Die Set

$5 more at Midway:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/309802/lee-deluxe-carbide-4-die-set-38-special-357-magnum

In addition to the kit you'll need a set of 6" calipers.

Harbor Freight has some that will work for cheap. I prefer dial calipers, no batteries to go dead.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dial-caliper-66541.html

And a manual:

I recommend Lyman's 49th or ABC's or Reloading.

 

[littleguns223]

My self I like the lee dies. Carbide 4 die set. Comes with shell holder. I use these on my single stage presses and Dillon dies on my progressive.

 

[fpgt72]

Here is one opinion.

Some Lee stuff is good. I use their trimming system. Easy to use, well made, consistent results.

Their single and turret presses are well made. But, i do not expect my single stage presses will ever wear out.

The Lee dies, except for their die lock rings, are good. When I stopped buying Lee dies in the 90s, it cost as much to buy Lee dies and replace the lock rings and storage boxes as the cost to by other manufacturers die sets. Easier to do one stop shopping.

The Auto Prime tools are good hand priming tools. Used them for decades until Lee put primer restriction on them. For safety concerns, I bought another brand and did not wait for the improved Auto Prime..

I had a Perfect Powder measure and it never worked well. It's operation was too sticky and it was too difficult to get it dialed in. I did like the feature that allowed you to turn off the powder flow. The Perfect powder measure just does not compare to my Uniflow, Redding 10-X, Hornady L-N-L or Midway Indispensable powder measures.

In my opinion the shot shell loader is kind of cheesy. But, i will admit, I have never used one. Just by comparing it to my Mec 600 Jr's.

Thanks that is the first real thought out reply I have ever gotten....and I do agree with you on the powder measure....it is sticky, not sure why. I am glad I got another person to tell me that and I am not doing something wrong...it always dumped the right amount of powder sometimes it would just stick going back up.

Their disc primer works well but I only can do hand gun rounds...I need the double disc thingy to load more powder in for rifles.

As far as the press, dies, prime functions all just fine...I have the 4 hole turret press and it has been great.

 

[kludge]

I'll add one more...

Here is one opinion.

Some Lee stuff is good. I use their trimming system. Easy to use, well made, consistent results.

Their single and turret presses are well made. But, i do not expect my single stage presses will ever wear out.

The Classic Cast and Classic Turret are the best bang for the buck on the market hands down.

The Lee dies, except for their die lock rings, are good. When I stopped buying Lee dies in the 90s, it cost as much to buy Lee dies and replace the lock rings and storage boxes as the cost to by other manufacturers die sets. Easier to do one stop shopping.

I have more problems with my Redding dies coming loose in the press than my Lee Dies. Other than that Redding dies are the shiznit.

I like the round storage boxes that many of the dies come in... I store my turrets in them.

The Auto Prime tools are good hand priming tools. Used them for decades until Lee put primer restriction on them. For safety concerns, I bought another brand and did not wait for the improved Auto Prime..

...an old inter-corporate ******* match that goes way back. Federal primers work fine in the AutoPrime and always have.

I had a Perfect Powder measure and it never worked well. It's operation was too sticky and it was too difficult to get it dialed in. I did like the feature that allowed you to turn off the powder flow. The Perfect powder measure just does not compare to my Uniflow, Redding 10-X, Hornady L-N-L or Midway Indispensable powder measures.

I have two Perfect Powder Measures. They work... perfectly... when it comes to throwing consistent charges. Very fine ball powders, like No.7 and A-1680 leak a little, no big deal, I spill a little. I agree that it's a little "sticky". No problem with long grains either, like IMR4064. Maybe a grain or two cut, but that won't matter a bit in applications when you are throwing charges. The Pro AutoDisc also works great. No variance at all when I load with No.7 in the .40S&W in my Loadmaster. It doesn't like Unique, but on that point we agree. (I hate Unique too.)