WHAT Do I Need to Order with a Hornady LNL

[345 DeSoto]

I'm going to start loading for .30 M1 Carbine, and besides the #22 Shell Plate and the RCBS Die set, what do I need to order with/for it? I know I'm going to need some sort of a bullet feeder, but I can do cases myself. And while I'm at it, just exactly does the LNL do? Do I have to use my Lee auto prime to put the primers in the cases? What do I need as far as bushings for the powder drop? I have NO idea what the LNL will do or how it does it, but I know I'm going to need a Progressive. Help, guys...

 

[moonman16]

Google for Hornady LNL-AP "VIDEOS"

Ultimatereloader has some.

Hornady LNL-AP "Set Up Hints and Tricks" by Bill Morgan

it has 5 parts, well worth your time to watch if you're going for a LNL-AP.

 

[Blue68f100]

The press is complete with the exception of dies and shell plate. You may want to look at the PTX. This frees up one station. You may want to get the Hornady dies over the RCBS. The man reason is that Hornady use a large radius on the bottom of the sizer. This just makes the brass align up easier. Then there seater die has a drop down tube that aligns the bullet and get your fingers clear sooner.

OneShot for dry lube to use on the base.
Load Manuals
Calipers
Scales
The LNL-AP wrench is a nice addition for tightening the shell plate and dies.
7/16" wrench for the primer setter assemble.

I like the micrometer head for the powder but thats a luxury item. But it gives you finer control.

 

[John3921]

The LNL has 5 stations and it auto-indexes itself. How you set up the 5 stations is up to you to a degree. For straight walled cases my set up is: Station 1 is the resize/deprime die. Station 1 1/2 seats the primer (the LNL comes with large and small primer seating tooling). Station 2 would be the powder measure - If you can, buy a PTX expander instead of the inserts that come with the powder measure. The PTX will bell the case mouth to accept the bullet and handle the powder. Station 3 - possibly a powder cop die to verify powder drops. Station 4 bullet seating die, station 5 a taper crimp die (taper crimp is better performed as a separate operation than seating and taper crimping-redding and lee make .30 carbine taper crimp dies)

You'll need the shell plate and a die set, a PTX insert for the .30 carbine, a powder cop die if you want, and a taper crimp die. The LnL comes with 5 quick change bushings for the die so you won't need any for a single caliber setup. You don't need a bullet feeder. Nice, but not necessary.

Looking at Honady's site I don't see a 30 cal PTX. So you'll have to use the inserts provided and bell the case mouth with your expander die.

Of course - manuals, scales, primer tray, etc.

 

[cfullgraf]

I'm going to start loading for .30 M1 Carbine, and besides the #22 Shell Plate and the RCBS Die set, what do I need to order with/for it?

I assume that you have ordered carbide dies. Most of the manufacturers of 30 Carbine carbide dies recommend using lubricant when sizing the 30 carbine cases. So, you will need a system of removing the lubricant.

Some folks do not use lubricant though.

If you ordered steel resizing dies, you will need lubricant anyway.

Th press comes with some L-N-L bushings but if you plan add other cartridges, you will probably want to get more bushings.

 

[howiepa]

PowderFunnels.com's PTX. It's a drop-in replacement for the Hornady one and is easier to adjust -- just adjust the entire powder drop, no separate contraption involved. It's $35 and has been the best addition to my LnL.

You'll also want to buy some fine grit sandpaper to sand down the edges of the LnL, especially the primer shuttle and general primer area.

You may want to replace the stock ram handle with an InlineFabrication.com one. This is next on my list

I haven't seen the rifle bullet feeder in action but I think it's new for 2014. I have a case feeder and it's both awesome and a huge frustration at the same time. When it works it's great, but when it doesn't I want to burn it down and pee on the ashes. I think rifle cases would be easier (I'm loading 9mm for now) as they're taller.

 

[silicosys4]

I ordered 5 extra shellplate springs, 5 extra primer shuttle springs, and an extra indexing pawl when I purchased mine.
So far in a year or so I have gone through a shellplate spring and a pawl. The shellplate and shuttle return spring are definitely meant to be regularly replaced. The pawl is nice to have around in case you break one. I will be ordering an extra large and small primer shuttle too.

 

[cfullgraf]

I ordered 5 extra shellplate springs, 5 extra primer shuttle springs, and an extra indexing pawl when I purchased mine.

Yes spare springs are handy to have but I have yet to replace one in 4 years of service.

My shell plate spring has more kinks in it than Carter has liver pills and might work better if it didn't but since it is not broke, why replace it.

It will not take long for you to figure out what is a normal level of force on the operating handle. If the press jams or the force suddenly gets high, do not power through the jam. Find the trouble and fix it. Otherwise you will break things.

A progressive press does not take well to the "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer" axiom.

 

[J_McLeod]

I'd buy more bushings. Get one for every die, it makes it easier. You don't need a bullet feeder, but it will make your loading go faster. For faster loading, maybe some extra primer tubes. I never used my auto prime again after getting my LNL. I love it.

 

[Blue68f100]

PowderFunnels.com's PTX. It's a drop-in replacement for the Hornady one and is easier to adjust -- just adjust the entire powder drop, no separate contraption involved. It's $35 and has been the best addition to my LnL.

Not the same tool . The Power funnel ONLY expands the mouth for starting the bullet. The PTX expands the body to a uniform size and expands the mouth. This gives you a more equal neck tension.

I do not know if the PTX is available for the 30 carbine. May have to call on that one. Most all pistol calibers are covered but the carbine is actually a small rifle round.

I have always used lube on my 30 Carbine dies but they are close to 40 yrs old and carbide was not available back then. These cases are small enough you could use OneShot case lube of most any of the spray lubes. The nice thing about the OS is that you will not have to clean the brass afterwards.

 

[John3921]

No PTX for the .30 carbine from Hornady. .355, .357, .400, .430, .451, .452, .475, .500

Powder Funnel site

 

[1KPerDay]

Stupid question: can you forego the LNL powder measure/expander and simply drop in a Lee powder through expander and the lee pro auto disc? Or is there something on the press preventing this (space considerations on top, etc.)?

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

I usually go with Hornady dies for my two L&L presses. The reason is sometimes other brands of dies cannot screw in far enough to do the job. I buy the L&L collets in packs of 10 to save on the price. I always like to have some extra collets on hand for setting up for new cartridges.

I dunno what rotor they are including in the powder measure that comes with the press these days, but there are two different rotor assemblies available. Usta be the one that came with the press was for rifle cartridges. The rotor for pistol cartridges is more suitable for the smaller loads in pistols. The inserts for the two different rotors are different. I found that with the standard rifle rotor I could not dial it down far enough for light loads in 38 Special. The pistol rotor is more suitable for light loads, and it is more easily adjustable over the range of charges one might want to use. I buy separate powder inserts for the powder measure. I keep each one adjusted and labeled for specific charges of specific powders. That way when changing calibers I just pop out one insert and pop in the other.

I always keep a few of the shellplate retaining springs on hand in case one breaks, they do that periodically.

I have had my presses since before the through powder dohickey, case feeders, and bullet feeders were available. I have never felt the need for any of those things.

 

[cfullgraf]

If you have access to a lathe, a 30 caliber drop tube is easy to make.

The 30 caliber tube is on the right.

 

[John3921]

The LnL powder measure comes with both the rifle and pistol rotor and 1 insert for each. The pistol rotor tops out at around 20 grains - I tried to use it for a .223 load - not quite enough capacity. I know there is also a Hornady bench rest powder measure. I think the rotor is somewhere between the pistol and rifle measures in capacity - but a rotor and insert is a little pricey and I'm not sure they fit in the standard measure body. I'd like to get a rotor that is between the rifle and pistol - to try and get a little more precise drops in the 20-30 grain range. I've been thinking about buying a second pistol rotor and opening up the chamber a bit, and turning down a rifle insert to match the chamber.

Cfullgraf - I like the lathe idea!

 

[dickttx]

Quote:
"Stupid question: can you forego the LNL powder measure/expander and simply drop in a Lee powder through expander and the lee pro auto disc? Or is there something on the press preventing this (space considerations on top, etc.)?"

When I bought my LnL about a year and a half ago I moved my LCT 45 ACP and 38 Super dies and my Pro Auto Disk over to the LnL and added an RCBS Powder-cop die. They worked very well.
I recently decided to add 9mm and found that the powder through/expander/flare die for the PAD would not screw down far enough to center the drop holes on that short cartridge.
I unpacked my Hornady powder measure (it does come with both large and small drums) and set it up. The Hornady dies include a separate die that only flares in station two. The powder measure and powder through only die goes in station three. As stated above, the powderfunnel.com die you can buy only flares and does not expand. It does save you a station taken up by the Hornady flare die. The Hornady PTX acts like the Lee die as it it a powder through/expander/flare die.
If Hornady does not have a 30 cal. PTX you might check on the new RCBS ones. I understand they will work on the Hornady LnL measure.
I just went through all this about three weeks ago.

 

[1KPerDay]

thanks.

 

[John3921]

One little lesson on the Hornady powder measure. In the instructions they say to clean it thoroughly before use, they are not kidding. My CFE223 drops were all over the map - and this was months after I started using the powder measure for pistol. I cleaned the thing with hot soapy water, dried it and wiped it all out with a dryer anti-static sheet. It made a huge difference in powder drop repeatability.



One tune up tip on the Lnl I think is useful: LnL tune up tip

 

[dickttx]

I agree on the cleaning. I have cleaned mine twice with the One Shot Cleaner and both the base and the tube are still completely covered in powder after I empty it. Now that it has warmed up a little in the garage I will clean it again, maybe with alcohol. It also causes inconsistent powder drops.

 

[John3921]

I took the powder measure, rotors, bushings, PTX tubes completely apart and threw it all in a sink full of hot soapy water scrubbed out what I could reach and let it soak. I wiped all the parts down with a dryer sheet when I reassembled the thing. It is much, much better. I was having issues with powder clinging to the drop tubes - that was the basic source of the variation and powder collecting on the shell plate. I'm not a huge fan of grounding presses - but i did that also. I think between the cleaning and the wax left behind by the dryer sheet is the biggest help.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

You will want to buy more primer pick up tubes. There will be one large and one small primer pick up tube. I have 5 of them and that allows me to load 500 shells without having to stop and fill the only pick up tube that came with it for the primer your using.

 

[dickttx]

I have two primer tubes of each size but I usually only load one. I take the break to load another as a chance to get some coffee or just move around.
Everyone soon develops their own procedures and rhythm.
I tried the roller handle and it didn't work well for me. A big eightball for a knob works very well for me.

 

[Crunchy Frog]

Yes to dies and shellplate for the cartridge(s) you intend to load. I used RCBS dies myself for years but if you are buying dies I would get the Hornadys.

Buy at least one can of the One Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube (not to be confused with One Shot Case Lube) and follow the video instructions for cleaning the packing grease off the parts.

You will get one set of die bushings with the press.

I'm a huge fan of the RCBS Lockout Die instead of the RCBS Powder Check Die or the similar Hornady Powder Cop.

I ordered the large cartridge catch box. The one that comes with the press is too small.

You don't need a bullet feeder or a casefeeder. You can add either or both later if you like. Believe me, you will have plenty to occupy your attention already.

I added a Hornady LED light kit to my press recently. I like having extra light.

It can't hurt to have one extra spring for the powder measure and for the primer shuttle, and a three pack of the cartridge retention springs. Cheap insurance.

 

[cfullgraf]

I ordered the large cartridge catch box. The one that comes with the press is too small.

A large Akro bin is an option or get a plate to fill in the end of the box. It will allow the box to fill with more cartridges without the size of the large box

I made my own but they are available from Inline Fabrication. They call them Bin Barriers

http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/press-accessories/products/bin-barriers

Mine are 16 ga aluminum sheet cut on a CNC plasma table. They can also be cut by hand with a pair of tin snips.

Of course, you could use the in barriers in the large box as well.

Also, having several bins is handy.

 

[rsrocket1]

Three things that Hornady should have included with each LnL AP press that are mandatory and would not have added much in the final cost:

1. Degreaser - You must degrease the metal parts, especially the internal parts that make contact with powder in the powder measure and rotor assemblies. Hornady's "One Shot" gun cleaner and dry lube works fine (about $9). Don't use the "One Shot" case lube, the cans look the same, but the stuff inside is definitely different. Brake cleaner will also work but do the cleaning outside because brake cleaner stinks. If you don't clean the thin film of anti-corrosion packing grease in the powder measure, your powder will stick to it and you'll never get consistent drops. The added advantage of the One Shot dry lube is it adds a little rust prevention to the exposed steel parts, all of which will rust over time. No biggie, just reapply the One Shot or clean the rust off every once in a while.
   
   
2. Primer flipper tray - about $5. Mandatory to fill the tubes unless you want to flip primers over with your fingers before picking them up with the pickup tube.
   
   
3. Grease gun with a zerk fitting. You must fill the grease fittings with grease, no the one shot spray is not sufficient, nor it wet oil. You must squirt it into the fittings under pressure. You can pick one up with grease included for around $10 at Walmart or Harbor Freight, but if you don't already have one, it's an extra trip.