What do you use to clean your handgun?

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HBK

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I've been using Hoppes #9 Solvent, then lubricating with Hoppes Oil, but it seems a lot of people are using CLP. Is CLP better? What do y'all recommend for cleaning and lubricating?
 
I use FP10, a BoreSnake of appropriate size and two soft burp rag cloths. That's all I use on handguns.

When I used BreakFree CLP, every once in a while, on the guns I shoot a lot, every 1,000 rounds or so, I'd run a bronze brush through a couple times along with Hoppes #9 to get out a little copper fouling. I just don't feel the need to use anything like that now that I use the FP10. I run the snake through the barrel once, then let some FP10 stand in the barrel while I clean the rest of the gun. Go back with a BoreSnake maybe three times and I have a clean barrel.

Works for me. :D
 
HBK
What you are using is fine.

This subject is more diverse and argumentive than any 45 vs 9mm, or Ford vs Chevy debate you will ever read or get involved in.

I would use a muzzle guard ( or a drinking straw) to protect the crown, pipe cleaners and long wooden q-tips( Radio Shack) , and old toothbrush are handy, old T shirts make good patches.

Use the money to buy ammo, range fees , training and such. IF and WHEN you run out of something, replace. Just note,some things don't mix, not compatable...Hoppe's as you are using -- compatable.

More important, IMO, is to inspect and maintain. Just like it is the shooter which is more important than the equipment...inspect, maintain is more critical than what you use.
 
I've tried all kinds of stuff but it seems I keep going back to good old Hoppes #9.
For lube it's either Remoil or Tetra lube & grease.
 
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I had been using MPro7 & Militec until I ran into this rep who gave me some Rust Hunter by Bull Frog. Work really well & smells good. For lube, I'm still using Militec.
 
I use CLP because I'm lazy, and not real big on a spit-shine clean for my guns, anyway.

As long as they function well and don't rust, I'm happy. CLP does that.
 
Hoppes for general cleaning. For rifle barrels and copper fouling, Shooter's Choice. I also use a bit of CLP for quick jobs at the range now and then.
 
Soap and water still best to clean BP and after using corrosive ammo.

In the old days, no Hoppe's No.9.

So hot water to neutralize corrosive salts, the hot water will "flash dry". I'm serious, and many will attest, including gunsmiths. Something to lube and prevent rust.

I'm of the opinion, humm, $25 for ammo , or fancy high priced solvents, lubes... I'm buying ammo. Shot placement will keep me alive...umm machine oil -whatever will take care of the other.

I don't get anal and caught up in cleaning. I have I guess 7-800 rds through one carry gun and 5-700 on another. Chamber cleaned with Q-tip, toothbrushed extractor, drop of lube on slide rail, hood, bbl bushing, that's it. I haven't and won't clean the bbl for a while--yet. Just an inspect, something on external for humidity and prints.
 
Shooter choice for cleaning, FP-10 for lubricating and protecting. For my grip frames, I usually soak them in Simple Green and hot water, blow dry, and then FP-10.
 
I have used the Hoppe's Semi-Auto Solvent also. Is there any part of the gun this should not be used on? The bottle says to only use it in the barrel, but can I use it on the slide and frame? I have been using this to clean everything, and then lube with Hoppe's #9 oil.

It's a little confusing, because people talk about using Hoppe's to clean, but there are at least three different bottles of Hoppe's cleaners on the shelf at my gun shop.
 
The No 9 is the original solvent (though they did remove benzene). If you'll check label, you may use to cln & prevent rust.

Semi-auto will evaporate, idea being that carbon fouling would not adhere if solvent dried. Works well, and regardless of label works on any platform.

The caveat again is one starts using and trying stuff and they do not mix. Don't get freaked, use what have, replace when empty, buy more important stuff like ammo, lessons, range time, belt holsters...
 
Greeting's Again Friend's-

Not to try to steal the original thread, but what do
you guy's and/or gal's think the glass cleaner Windex
would have on a 73 model Colt Detective Special?

There is a security officer that works for the same firm
that I do, and he has recently cleaned and/or polished
this firearm with Windex!:uhoh: :( His comment was;
"Oh! it didn't hurt anything, and it sure made it shine"!
Then I said," Wayne if I'm not mistaken I believe that
Windex contains amonia; and that could prove very
harmful to the weapons nickel finish". Wayne replied,
"I guess you live and learn"! Well, as this story came
to an end; I offered to lubricate and clean the weapon
properly, free of charge.:D So far, no response from
my ole' bud Wayne.

Again my question is, was I right or wrong? Many thanks
for taking the time to read; and also for any and all much
appreciated response's.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
EEZOX, all EEZOX, nothing but EEZOX :D

It a synthetic lube/cleaner combo dries to protect from rust without attracting dirt, and helps to keep the burnt powder from sticking to the gun. Works very nicely...
 
Windex

Ala Dan.

I hear BP shooters using windex at the range to hold until they get home.
I'm in agreement with you, empty windex bottles are handy, ammonia and guns a no-no.

I used to use 28% ammonia in my work. Yeah, tough stuff, and we'd dilute it.

I was asked to bring some home to a neighbor. I thought this guy has sense and would dilute.

straight 28 % ammonia will ruin a nickel finish model 10-- quick.
The dummy also use it on a model 18.

Trust me when I say ammonia , finishes, bbls, and other solvents do not mix.

So he then diluted it, and messed up another firearm.
 
For cleaning it's MPro-7. For lubing and recoating I've been using Break-Free CLP. If I'm out in the field I'll use CLP only.
I did get a sample of Militec-1 and I'm currently testing it out as I will FP-10 eventually. So far I'm impresessed with the Militec-1, but I don't see it as a CLP.
 
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