What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today

[a5werkes]

This was a component of a Mossberg 20 ga. project. The Vang Comp picatinny rail / rear sight did not have the same receiver top bolt pattern that usually has
8-40 plug screws. I used the forward most factory screw position as a set point then drilled & tapped the remainder of the rail pattern. Used a Starrett precision
gage pin to assure the spotter / drill entry would be perfectly centered in the rail hole pattern. Simple for professionals.

 

[a5werkes]

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[a5werkes]

This was my first go at creating a long bushing on the lathe; a first opportunity for boring bar use, cut-off tools etc. I have a Mossberg 590 A1 14” that has been modified, particularly adding an aluminum tri-rail forend. I wanted to make a similar 20 ga. Mossberg platform with a 14” Shockwave host however an aluminum tri-rail doesn’t exist as there is no market for such an accessory. I used the 12 gauge version and fabricated a forend bushing to reconcile the diameter differential between the rail and the problematic 20 gauge magazine tube. I used 6061 tube stock, fitted then Cerakote-d for the final assembly of the project. Then I assembled a similar .410 Shockwave critter-getter brethren. All BATFE’d on their Eform1 application.

 

[a5werkes]

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[a5werkes]

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[troy fairweather]

Great work A5 where are you located.

 

[Jim Watson]

Lots of work.
But those rails look like a rough pump handle to shuck.

 

[a5werkes]

Lots of work.
But those rails look like a rough pump handle to shuck.

Yes Sir. So I always install rubber picatinny ladder rails.

 

[a5werkes]

A few photos of some of the sub-projects undertaken.
SideSaddle modifications.
Vang Comp over-sized aluminum safety replaces factory plastic safety.

 

[a5werkes]

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[BBBBill]

@a5werks, if you claim to be an amateur smith then your work belies that claim. It is far better than some that I've seen from some long time, nationally recognized smiths.

 

[a5werkes]

^^Thanks. But for me to claim to have the expertise of a professional gunsmith would be heresy. I do aspire to fulfill my projects with the results worthy of a gunsmith's okay.

 

[troy fairweather]

^^Thanks. But for me to claim to have the expertise of a professional gunsmith would be heresy. I do aspire to fulfill my projects with the results worthy of a gunsmith's okay.

You ever drill and tap mauser actions

 

[a5werkes]

I have all sorts of projects to report. As you can ascertain by now, I take a lot of photos with every undertaking so I can remember what I did that was worthy and what would be
shameful to repeat on the next project.

This 2021 KAC SR-25 SBR project had two issues to solve. It had a 13.5” URX4 rail. The Surefire Warcomp flash hider has an alignment mortise to fit with the Surefire SOCOM2 suppressor locking collar lug to engage before the ratcheting counter clockwise collar rotates ~270 degrees for secure fitment. That locking collar moves rearward along the muzzle axis during its installation engagement with the suppressor. The suppressor could be mounted on the flash hider however the locking collar was arrested from full rotation by its contact with the forward edge of the Mlok rail. So, I milled off the rail 270 degrees still keeping the top rail intact. I used a ball end mill bit because the proximity of the required milling would have resulted in marring the parts if I used a standard square end mill. KAC now makes a 13” rail and I know why.

The second issue was installing a Law Tactical Gen3M folding stock adapter and their stock for the M110/SR25. The KAC receiver extension castle nut is prohibited from removal by an intervening QD socket mounting part, secured at the factory with a blind hole split roll pin. The task for me was to remove the pin without screwing up the tube threads, so I could then unscrew the castle nut to install the folding adapter. I know there are several methods to skin this cat. I chose a screw extractor bit in a hand cordless drill sized to slightly larger than internal diameter of the roll pin to hopefully engage / rotate the pin outward just enough to liberate its engagement with the tube threads. Took a few attempts, then able to unscrew the part. Castle nut removed after I chased the threads with a proper size die; didn’t want to use the castle nut as a die. The split ring dies are pretty handy. The residual pin removed from the part. Couldn’t believe the factory would stake the pin in that fashion since the channel in the threads is smaller than the diameter of the pin certainly maiming their threads in every installation. The 1/8 “ roll pin was replaced by an 8-32 set screw if I ever decided to restore it to original configuration; using a cup tipped set screw would fit within the thread mortise without compression destroying adjacent threads.

 

[a5werkes]

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[a5werkes]

I might say those electrical conduit box wrenches can be handy when one is briefly assembling / disassembling an ongoing project when little more than
snug tight is adequate. The split die is the ticket when the end of a fastener is screwed up, start in the middle and clean it up toward the end.

...........

 

[a5werkes]

You ever drill and tap mauser actions

No. But from these same pages I understand they might be cause for even the most God-fearing gentleman gunsmith to swear.

Related to the above SR25 project, I thought I might pin & weld the muzzle device until my eForm1 was approved. So, I use carbide bits rated for stainless, cast iron, tool steel etc. and they seem to do a good job with proper setup. Related, if the same drilled hole needs to be tapped, I use similarly rated "super" taps for the materials.

 

[troy fairweather]

No. But from these same pages I understand they might cause for even the most God-fearing gentleman gunsmith to swear.

Related to the above SR25 project, I thought I might pin & weld the muzzle device until my eForm1 was approved. So, I use carbide bits rated for stainless, cast iron, tool steel etc. and they seem to do a good job with proper setup. Related, if the same drilled hole needs to be tapped, I use similarly rated "super" taps for the materials.

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How are you leveling odd shaped things in the vise, I've been trying to find small machinist levels but not much luck. I've got a few mausers I need to get drilled and taped, the small levels make it easier when fitting the scope bases. There nice to have for leveling sights and such.

 

[entropy]

It was last weekend, but since it's the last one I did, well....
I lost the hammer pin on my Charger, so I used a 5/32" drill bit I found (on the floor, still in the package. Found while I was looking for the pin) and made a pin out of the shank. Fit perfectly, and now I have a spare (I ordered one, and put it in) and maybe two if I ever find the original.

 

[a5werkes]

How are you leveling odd shaped things in the vise, I've been trying to find small machinist levels but not much luck. I've got a few mausers I need to get drilled and taped, the small levels make it easier when fitting the scope bases. There nice to have for leveling sights and such.

I use a variety of small vises, Starrett's, Arisakas etc are nice, but the Wixey digital with magnetic base is awesome for $30 ! Trust but verify.

 

[a5werkes]

I forgot to mention, those small magnetic bubble levels for taps when not using a drill press follow-on for tapping are really clever.
They just fit on top of the tap handle, keep the bubble in the circle and it's a good square tap.

 

[troy fairweather]

I use a variety of small vises, Starrett's, Arisakas etc are nice, but the Wixey digital with magnetic base is awesome for $30 ! Trust but verify.

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I'm looking for something the the one on the top right, even smaller would be nice. I really like the L shaped starrett you got there. I have the plastic wheeler but don't trust them much.

 

[troy fairweather]

The tap level is a great idea, I've been looking for the jig to drill and tap rifle actions but there's only one being made now and it's like $400. I don't mind paying $25-$30 a hole for a Smith but having a hard time finding one I trust.

 

[troy fairweather]

Again sorry for the horrible pictures, best this pos will do.
Worked on shaping the trigger bow today, I shot for a little bit over .500 wide bow, with a little to work with. I cut down about every half inch or so the help keep the cut clean and were I want it. I used my old pare of calibers to scribe the edges. Cut slots were the bow will fatten again before the bottom metal and a little lower by the rear action screw. I'll take off most of the metal with the dremel the a file to straighten everything up, I'll file a bevel at the transition to make it look better.

The last picture shows the serial number and one of the Argentine proof marks, normally one way to get rid of them is to use a punch and displace the metal from the inside, this will raise the outside were it can be filed to remove the numbers and keeping it nice and flat. Problem with this one the numbers and letter to past where I can move the metal to file it all away. So I'm a bit stuck on what to do, the serial numbers are pretty crisp and do match the receiver so leaving them may look nice.

For the pivet to open the floor plate I've got to make a piece to weld on to give something to push against.

 

[a5werkes]

The Winchester 1300 “Speed Pump” was introduced when the U.S. Repeating Arms Company (USRAC) assumed production of Winchester brand guns from the Olin / Winchester corporation. The Model 1300 was a refined iteration of the Model 1200, which was manufactured between 1964 to 1980. When the USRAC factory closure in mid-2007, the Model 1300 production was transferred to Winchester Repeating Arms Company with some of the Model 1300’s being manufactured by one of FN (Fabrique Nationale) Manufacturing Company subsidiaries located in Morgan, Utah.

I first used on at the elite Rogers Shooting School as Winchester 1300 was used as their “school” shotgun for attendees that didn’t have a tactical shotgun. I learned it was so quick you could short stroke the action and induce cartridge jam malfunctions that required removing the barrel, magazine spring cap, magazine spring and coercing the cartridges out of the breech into the magazine tube and out the muzzle end. A quick way to convert a tactical shotgun into an 18” night stick. I purchased one after the class and my first modification was to the cartridge lifter in a manner that the Remington 870’s eventually evolved with their “flex tab” solution to the same problem. The Mossberg 500 designs not only have dual extractors but open bottom prohibits this kind of malfunction.

After thousands of rounds down range another Achilles heel of the FN / Winchester manifested; the plastic magazine throat tube wears out / fractures resulting in non-retention of the cartridge shells in the magazine. The magazine tube is a press fit and the magazine throat part that screws on the tube. The project for me was to replace the magazine tube throat part; disassembly was easy, however I had to fabricate a slide hammer to install the press fit part.



Here's mine.