what is a decent price for a K38

[roval]

Howdy Again

Interesting photos. That is not a typical K-38 Hammer. Compare it to the hammers on this pair of K-38s.

This one shipped in 1950.

View attachment 1114017




This one shipped in 1957, just before the change over to the Model 14 name. This one is wearing fake stag grips, and the front sight has been reshaped, but both of these K-38s have the early Speed Hammer style of short throw hammer.

View attachment 1114018




What I believe you have there is a target hammer from a later revolver.

In this photo, a Model 14-3 is at the top, and a K-32 Masterpiece is at the bottom. The Model 14 has a typical short throw hammer. Now notice how much longer the hammer spur is on the K-32 hammer. That is a short throw target hammer.

View attachment 1114019




In this photo, both hammers have been cocked. Again, notice how much longer the hammer spur is on the K-32 Target Hammer.

View attachment 1114020




Model 14 hammer on the left, K-32 target hammer on the right. Notice how much wider the spur is on the K-32 target hammer.

View attachment 1114021




Both hammers cocked, Model 14 on the left, K-32 target hammer on the right.

View attachment 1114022




I suspect somebody has substituted a target hammer from a later revolver, like on the K-32 in my photos onto your K-38. I cannot conclusively say your K-38 has a replacement hammer, but I have never seen a hammer like that on a K-38. I suspect, as somebody has already said, that your hammer was polished to remove the Case Hardening colors and bring it down to bare metal. The hardness will still be there,but the colors have been removed. Notice how your firing pin is still dark.

I suspect the same with your trigger. If your hammer has been replaced the original trigger may not fit it properly. Somebody may have substituted a latter trigger, and again, polished it to remove the Case Hardening colors.

I suspect the same with the thumb piece (the part you push forward to open the cylinder). It would most likely have originally been blued, and somebody polished it to remove the blue.

You have a very nice K-38 there, I just suspect the hammer and perhaps the trigger have been replaced.

I would be happy to look up when it was made if you would provide the Serial Number. You will find the Serial Number on the bottom of the Butt. It probably starts with a K prefix. Don't post the complete serial number, substitute Xs for the last two digits, but do include the correct amount of digits.

thanks i was about to ask you what yr you thought it was. the serial # K218900s. do you think that was a spent primer and to what purpose?

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

The Serial Numbers for 1954 run from K210096 to K231255.

I am stumped by the primer cup on the strain screw (the screw that flexes the hammer spring all the way). Many shooters back out the strain screw a little bit to lessen the force of the hammer spring, making double action shooting a little bit easier. S&W recommends the strain screw not be backed out, it should be tightened down all the way. I suppose somebody may have ground off the tip of the strain screw, and found that it did not compress the spring enough, then added the primer cup as a shim to increase the spring pressure a bit. But I cannot really tell from your photo.

 

[UncleEd]

Right stock numbered; does it match
gun's serial number; if so then stocks
are original to gun.

Looks to be a standard but polished
target hammer; was the trigger also
slightly polished and serreations
smoothed out a bit?

If you go inside, note if the hammer
block (stirrup shaped part) is still
in the gun. Some shooters of old
removed hammer block for
a believed smoother trigger.

Probably primer cup was added to
gain extra oomph in ignition even
if strain screw was not shortened.
Gun might have been getting
sluggish and owner didn't open it
up to clean; the primer was an
expedient.

 

[roval]

the strain screw was backed out a bit when i got it which is why i took off the grips right away. i've heard people using it as a shim if you can't get enough pressure on the spring but if so then why back out the screw and then i thought it was something old smiths had. i will remove it. i had fully screwed in the strain screw for now with the spent primer.

 

[roval]

Right stock numbered; does it match
gun's serial number; if so then stocks
are original to gun.

Looks to be a standard but polished
target hammer; was the trigger also
slightly polished and serreations
smoothed out a bit?

If you go inside, note if the hammer
block (stirrup shaped part) is still
in the gun. Some shooters of old
removed hammer block for
a believed smoother trigger.

Probably primer cup was added to
gain extra oomph in ignition even
if strain screw was not shortened.
Gun might have been getting
sluggish and owner didn't open it
up to clean; the primer was an
expedient.

the trigger serrations do not appear to be smoothed out. btw i decided to remove the primer cup. the number on the grip is 7061 which doesn't match the last 4 digits of the serial number nor the assembly numbers behind the yoke.

 

[roval]

The Serial Numbers for 1954 run from K210096 to K231255.

I am stumped by the primer cup on the strain screw (the screw that flexes the hammer spring all the way). Many shooters back out the strain screw a little bit to lessen the force of the hammer spring, making double action shooting a little bit easier. S&W recommends the strain screw not be backed out, it should be tightened down all the way. I suppose somebody may have ground off the tip of the strain screw, and found that it did not compress the spring enough, then added the primer cup as a shim to increase the spring pressure a bit. But I cannot really tell from your photo.

thanks for the serial # manufacturing date/release date. pretty neat to have an old gun.

 

[CajunBass]

I've heard of using a spent primer as a shim right there. I've forgotten why it was done, but I have read/heard of it.

Nice score. You'll like them I predict.