What is the next smallest after N-frame?

[Surplussoldier]

I have a S&W N-frame .357 magnum and it is a nice revolver but a little too big for my hands. I cannot thumb back the hammer if I am holding it in a normal grip, and I can't really reach the cylinder release quickly either. Something just a little smaller would be nice. What could I buy that would be big and soak up recoil but be tough enough to regularly fire factory .357?

 

[Rick O'Shea]

L-frame.

The 586 and 686 (and their fixed-sight brethren the 81's) are among the finest revolvers made.
I never thought I'd love a full-lug barrel, but my 586 is just the peaches....

 

[mainmech48]

In the S&W line, it's 'N', then 'L', 'K' and 'J' in decending order of size. As far as grips, etc. go, the 'L' and 'K' are virtually identical.

The S&W 'K' frame's ergos are about as close to 'universal' as they come. The 'L' models add a bit of beef to the frame to hold up better with extended use of higher-intensity .357 loads.

The Ruger GP-100 series of revolvers might be particularly well-suited for your needs. They have no 'grip frame' per se, and are capable of being fitted with grips of almost any configuration you might need. They also have a 'push-button' cylinder release in the left recoil shield which may be easier for you to manipulate. They are, as most Ruger revolvers have traditionally been, somewhat larger than they need be for the task, but they are also extremely rugged. They are heavier than they need to be for the cartridge, IMO, but that makes them easier to shoot comfortably if more of a load in the holster.

Hope this is of some help.

 

[deadin]

X,L,K,J,I,M Frames. Big to little.

 

[Sistema1927]

deadin, you left out the N frame in your list:

X,N,L,K,J,I,M Frames. Big to little.

 

[deadin]

OOPS!!

 

[GunNut]

Buy different grips......that's the nice thing with revolvers.

 

[Surplussoldier]

Thanks everyone. I have fired a 686 and a GP-100 at the range once and they seemed to fit well.

I have changed my N-frame revolver's "target grips" to form-fitting Hogue rubber grips, but I still find the general ergonomics to be too large as I can't quite reach the hammer or cylinder release while holding it. I think I will try out a GP-100 and 686 again to see how they fit.

Also, regarding K-frames, how do they hold up to factory .357? I am not planning to shoot any "hot" or "custom" handmade loads, but rather very very standard factory ammo. Will that beat-up a K-frame if used as 100% of the ammunition fired?

 

[GunNut]

The K frame while chambered for .357mag, will obviously wear out sooner than one of the L frame .357 magnums. How many rounds it will last is hard to say, seeing how most gun owners put very few rounds through their guns, it could last a life time depending on use.

If you plan on putting 1,000's of rounds a year through it then I would definitely gravitate more to the S&W 686 or GP100.

If the gun is for mostly carry, the K frame will be a better fit.

Steve