Ok, here's the deal. I just changed my RRA LAR-15 from a free-float to a non free-float (weight was the only reason), Anyways, I'm trying to put the Front Sight back on. Would I be putting myself in harms way if I filed down the front (the front being where the gas tube goes in). I'd be taking about .1mm off of the front sight. A picture of the front sight will be @ the bottom.
What to do...
- Thread starter OneWound
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Is handguard clearance the problem?
How about notching the handguard to clear it??
rc
How about notching the handguard to clear it??
rc
No, because I try to put it on w/o the handguard and it still has the same problem.
When it was free floated, it did not have this problem. It is because of this piece, (can't think of name, pic below), but it shouldn't matter anyways, should it?
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I am at a total loss to understand what the problem is.
The old front hand-guard cap is not used with a free float hand-guard.
So you should have more room without it then you had with it.
I don't understand why you would need to file anything??
rc
The old front hand-guard cap is not used with a free float hand-guard.
So you should have more room without it then you had with it.
I don't understand why you would need to file anything??
rc
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
O.K. gotcha now.
I was thinking you went from non-free float to a free-float like everyone else does.
What I would do is install the gas block & cap back on the barrel.
Then try to install the hand-guards by compressing the delta ring spring as normal.
Bet it will fit.
If it doesn't?
Take some material off the front of the hand-guards.
They need to be approx. 7" to fit a carbine length system.
But you can't put the gas block & cap back on the barrel with them in place.
There is no way possible you can compress the delta ring spring with the hand-guards in place while trying to get the gas block pins to line up.
rc
I was thinking you went from non-free float to a free-float like everyone else does.
What I would do is install the gas block & cap back on the barrel.
Then try to install the hand-guards by compressing the delta ring spring as normal.
Bet it will fit.
If it doesn't?
Take some material off the front of the hand-guards.
They need to be approx. 7" to fit a carbine length system.
But you can't put the gas block & cap back on the barrel with them in place.
There is no way possible you can compress the delta ring spring with the hand-guards in place while trying to get the gas block pins to line up.
rc
I have tried that:s, as a note I never put the handguards on first. Still off the same thickness.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Well, they must have drilled for the pins in the barrel with no regard to it being in the right place on the barrel with a hand-guard cap then??
That's the only thing I can think of??
I guess your only two options are.
1. Shorten the gas block the thickness of the cap.
Or:
2. Shorten the hand-guards the thickness of the cap.
I'd maybe consider #2 the better option.
Hand-guards are cheaper then gas blocks if you mess up.
rc
That's the only thing I can think of??
I guess your only two options are.
1. Shorten the gas block the thickness of the cap.
Or:
2. Shorten the hand-guards the thickness of the cap.
I'd maybe consider #2 the better option.
Hand-guards are cheaper then gas blocks if you mess up.
rc
I believe originally it was for a free-float, but whatever. How thin can I get with the hand-guard cap?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Don't mess with the hand-guard cap.
Shorten the hand-guards enough to fit.
Are you 100% sure you are compressing the Delta ring spring enough to get them on??
rc
Shorten the hand-guards enough to fit.
Are you 100% sure you are compressing the Delta ring spring enough to get them on??
rc
Hold on...I must have done something wrong again. I can't get the front sight base pins in, even when I don't have handguards on.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Use a proper size pin punch to align the holes with the half-circle barrel cuts.
Then put the pins in.
If it came off that barrel, it has to fit back on it.
rc
Then put the pins in.
If it came off that barrel, it has to fit back on it.
rc
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N.Schafer
Member
If you are adding the forearm retaining washer, you will need to take off that amount of material from the rear of the gas block. This should let the holes align properly, including the gas hole.
Still won't fit. The front base only aligns with the pins when there is no handgaurd cap on it.
That's what I was thinking, but I wasn't going to take away something I can't put back without making sure it's the right thing to do.
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Only have one gas block to my name
I bet the front sight base was drilled for a free floating handgaurd hence no need for the cap. OP you are trying to add the cap?. The cap is 25 thousands of an inch thick. Only real fix is new barrel and front sight base. Never shaved a front sight base.
Why would you never want to do that? And could it be solved by just getting a new font sight base then a barrel?
N.Schafer
Member
You also could've turned the shoulder on the barrel back 0.025 if you had access to a lathe. I think what you did is just fine, especially if it works.
If I turn the shoulder back 0.025 though, that means I have to change the lengths of my handguards every time I get a new one, correct?
N.Schafer
Member
Correct. Unless they had that much clearance or give in them.
BBBBill
Member
Seems to me that trimming the hand guard won't "git 'er done!" The gas block/sight base was drilled, reamed, and taper pinned sitting .XXX" further to the rear than normally installed. Now trying to install the front sight cap is causing the sight base to be spaced further forward causing misalignment with the taper pin holes. The additional thickness of the hand guard cap is still an issue with aligning the taper pin hole in the gas block/sight base and barrel. Best way to do that is to face off the back side with a mill or lathe to gain clearance to install the HG cap. Precision counts. I would not use a file.
Think it could be pulled off with a lathe since the middle is a cylinder?
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