What to expect from this Savage? Barrel break-in suggestions?

[AKElroy]

I am interested in any input into this rifle. I ordered it Saturday from Gunbroker; paid $580.00 NIB for a Lefty .308. I also ordered a DNZ (deadnutz) one-piece Game-Reaper mount for a Nikon prostaff 3x9x40 BDC. This rig probably deserves better optics, but the prostaff is what I have on-hand. I have been impressed with them for the money.

This is my first Savage, and I am interested in what kind of accuracy to expect from this rig, as well as any advice on barrel break in. Details below:

http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/finder/


Model: 16 FLHSS
Series: Weather Warrior AccuTrigger: Yes
Sights: Drilled and tapped for scope mounts AccuStock : Yes
Magazine: Hinged floorplate Stock material: Synthetic
Barrel material: Stainless Steel Stock finish: Matte
Barrel finish: High Luster Stock color: Black
Barrel color: Natural Action: Short

 

[SSN Vet]

I hope the model 16 you buy has the Accu-Stock (new feature)

a lot of dealers on GB are still selling the older ones that are dual pillar beded.... yet their cut and paste from Savages web site may say Accu-stock

 

[Uncle Mike]

Savage rifles tend to be more accurate than some other compariable rifles, you should get less than MOA out of it, bar no problems.
As for the barrel break in procedure, there are many regimens one could follow, I might suggest you do a search as to barrel break-in, as there have been many post contemplating this act recently.

At the shop, we tend to use the clean between shots with copper remover, for the first 5 rounds, then as normal unless the customer states different.

Myself, I think I have tried them all, with varying results and the 'just shoot it' until accuracy starts to degrade and then do the cleaning thing, seems to be the best bet. IMHO

 

[AKElroy]

a lot of dealers on GB are still selling the older ones that are dual pillar beded

I emailed the seller to confirm it has the accustock & received an affirmative. I will be sending it back otherwise.

 

[mshootnit]

My old 110fp would group five shots inside of a nickel at 100 yds out of the box, without the accu-stock. So I would expect you should get good accuracy.
I personally believe that barrel break-in procedures tend to get more attention than they deserve.

 

[semperfi63]

as well as any advice on barrel break in. Details below:

I suggest you ship it to me, and over the next 10 or 15 years I will carefully break in the barrel for you

 

[AKElroy]

I suggest you ship it to me, and over the next 10 or 15 years I will carefully break in the barrel for you

That's sweet.

 

[dakotasin]

remove from box, mount scope, barnes cr-10 down the bore, and shoot as per usual.

i don't believe in barrel break in procedures... even a little.

 

[SSN Vet]

I've only had my new Model 14 in 7mm-08 out once. I was dialing in the scope, so to many tweeks to get any kind of groups. That and it was 15 deg. out with a wicked cross wind.

None the less, twice I had two consecutive shots touching one another.

 

[little joe]

Greetings,

I have two Savage FLHSS (long action) weather warrior rifles. One in 270W and the other 338WM. The 270W has a 22" barrel and the 338WM has an over all barrel length of 24" with the factory muzzle brake. My wife hunts with an FLHSS in 30-06 and the factory muzzle brake. Her rifle with the muzzle brake is the same length as my 270W at 22".

I think the build quality (fit, finish, etc) is outstanding and $ for $ it offers more nice features than just about any other rifle. Pillar bedded action and the Accu-trigger are fantastic to my way of thinking. They are relatively light when scoped.

Performance wise...

My 270W shoots about 1.4" groups with Remington factory 130 CLPP ammo and less than MOA with hand loads. I could not be happier. I hunt in Idaho. Many times in the rain or snowing and I could care less because of the stainless and fiber-stock. Damn glasses fogging are always my biggest problem.

My 338WM shoots the same. Very accurate and relatively light for such a hard hitting rifle. The brake works wonderfully. Sounds like a big "thud" and pushed the shoulder about like a 30-06. I am not shining you on, a dream to shoot off the bench. I've sighted in a R600 in 350RM off the bench and the 338WM was quite a bit less.

Wife loves her FLHSS 30-06. Had the stock (fiber) cut down 1.2" as she is only 4'9". MOA with factory loads out of the box. 180g bullets push about like a 243 with the muzzle brake. She is deadly with this rifle.

I own and hunt with Remington 600's and 660's ( both 6.5RM and 350RM ), a Sako L579 in 308, Sako L61 in 338WM so know what nice rifles feel and shoot like.

Savages with the pillar bedded action, free floating barred, accu-trigger, in stainless with the fiber stock are excellent rifles. I've got three, not one problem and all accurate.

Hope this helps. Regards Lj

 

[dubbleA]

Any factory barreled rifle I have, doesnt matter if it's a sako, rem, win, kimber, sav etc gets 50 or so strokes of JB paste and a tight patch before firing and then I shoot it till accuracy falls of. Pretty simple, it works for me, your milage will vary.........

 

[Uncle Mike]

A word on the Accustock, read your owners manual very carefully, and understand it, concerning the removal and re-installation of the action into the Accustock.

The procedure is particular, and the torque values are critical. Also, put a dab of grease on the sliding wedge....between the wedge and the sloped piece of the aluminum stock insert.
DO NOT put grease between the wedge and the recoil lug of the rifle.

The Accustocks are sweet, except for that horrid mold seam, but a little attention with a really sharp razor blade and that disappears. lol hehehehe

 

[AKElroy]

Any factory barreled rifle I have, doesnt matter if it's a sako, rem, win, kimber, sav etc gets 50 or so strokes of JB paste and a tight patch before firing and then I shoot it till accuracy falls of. Pretty simple, it works for me, your milage will vary.........

I just read an interesting article by Gale McMillan. He has manufactured thousands of barrels & competition rigs, and he claims this method is a very bad practice. In fact, he voids the warranty for such a practice. I will try & find the link if you are interested--

 

[Al Thompson]

I was there when Gale (R.I.P.) posted that on TFL. Obviously, he was the guru on his barrels and I agree with him on custom barrels. However, I have found that some aggressive cleaning at first (Iosso Bore Brite or Flitz) at first on a factory barrel helps things settle down faster....

 

[Uncle Mike]

+1 Al T

 

[joed]

From what I've experienced Savage accuracy is hit or miss, with more hit then miss. I had a model 12 VSS that kept stringing vertically. Fooled with it a bit and sold it. But, my 10fp is the most accurate rifle I've ever shot.

I was told to do nothing special breaking in a barrel. Don't shoot it hot and stop at 20 shots and clean. That was from Kelbley's a custom rifle builder on my new Krieger match barrel. They said to follow this on every gun. Never let them get hot though, give ample time to cool off.

 

[joed]

I'll also add one other tidbit after fooling with Kriger match barrels. The custom barrels don't seem to give that much accuracy then stock barrels. However, they don't foul as badly and cleanup very easy.

Maybe my barrels will get better as they shoot. So far 20 shots through both, and accuracy is just a little better then stock. But after 20 shots they clean up with 2 patches. Never had a stock barrel come that clean.

 

[SaxonPig]

The ever popular #36...

Barrel break in.

36. “Breaking in” a rifle barrel is probably just a waste of time. Some barrel makers recommend it while others do not which demonstrates a lack of universal agreement on whether it’s really necessary so it probably is not. Every formula for break in involves some combination of firing and cleaning. The fact that there are numerous different formulas should be evidence that nobody really has the definitive answer on the best procedure meaning there likely isn’t one. Simply shooting the rifle as intended will likely be all the break in that is required.

 

[lopezni]

I would follow what the manual states. Generally the ends of the lands of a factory barrel are curled over. Copper can build up underneath these area. There is no disadvantage to following the user manual or suggested procedure for breaking in a new barrel.

 

[Ifishsum]

I would follow what the manual states. Generally the ends of the lands of a factory barrel are curled over. Copper can build up underneath these area. There is no disadvantage to following the user manual or suggested procedure for breaking in a new barrel.

+1

There is a difference between a hand lapped McMillan barrel and a typical factory barrel. The whole idea of "breaking in" a barrel is to get the tooling marks smoothed out by firing, and this is more easily accomplished with a clean barrel. I also often use dubbleA's technique of some JB Bore Paste before the first range trip to speed it up even further. As it breaks in and smooths out, you will notice that it fouls less between shot strings and becomes easier to clean.

 

[Uncle Mike]

There has been more damage done with an improper application of JB than you can imagine.

I bet a couple dozen bullets through that barrel will....'smooth it out'!

 

[dubbleA]

There has been more damage done with an improper application of JB than you can imagine.

Improper application/usage of alot of things are detrimental...be it driving an automobile, handloading, taking OTC drugs, alcohol, using powder equipment and on and on.

There are some that say that more bores are ruined by over cleaning. The debate goes on and on.

I'll continue to use JB paste before christening factory barrels as it's my opinion that a Savage etc. barrel will not having the lapping of a Bartlein etc. and thus will foul more than necessary right off the bat.

 

[Uncle Mike]

I'll continue to use JB paste before christening factory barrels as it's my opinion that a Savage etc. barrel will not having the lapping of a Bartlein etc. and thus will foul more than necessary right off the bat.

I agree, I have lapped some of mine, just have to be careful while doing it!

 

[wishin]

For those of you who may have missed it, there was a good article in the American Rifleman a few months ago on barrel break-in. Probably Oct - Nov.

 

[NCsmitty]

IMO, standard factory barrels do benefit from the shoot and clean regimen for the first 25 rounds or so. There are minute particles of bullet jacket deposited in the rifling due to the initial burrs left by the rifling process.
My procedure is to make up some lower powered rounds to fire first and clean after every shot for the first 5. Then once every 5 shots for the next 20 rounds.
That's how I do it, and if you don't believe in break-in, I sure won't lose any sleep over it.

Custom barrels most often do not need a break-in due to the fact that they are hand lapped to remove the burrs.



NCsmitty