What's the correct way to lube a revolver?

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pbhome71

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I have a very dumb question. BTW, I tried to search, but I don't think I did it correctly.

I have just realized that the Taurus manual does not tell you how to lube the revolver.

I clean the cylinder, and the bore. Then dry them with clean patch. The usual stuff. However, I have no idea on the best way to lube it.

Where do I need to lube it? I use Superlube (Teflon based light penetrating spray type.) I usually spray a little at all external moving parts.

Do I need to oil the cylinder lock, and etc?

Do I need to routinely take the side plate out and lube the internal (the manual said that you don't need to do that.)

Thanks,

-Pat
 
Dunno about Taurus, but Ruger recommends just dripping a small amount of oil into the various holes in the frame that parts stick out of, for their revolvers. Ruger's lockwork is fairly unique, though, so that may not apply to a Taurus or Smith.

I really doubt you'd need to lubricate the cylinder lock or other relatively low-stress parts. The only thing a revolver really needs oil for is to prevent rust if it's blued. Oiling the parts of the trigger mechanism will make the trigger pull smoother and reduce wear a little, but lack of lubrication won't make the gun unreliable, unlike most automatics.
 
Revolvers are easy. For decades I just put some drops of oil (Rem Oil) on a clean patch and run it thru the barrel several times. Don't oil the cylinders. Keep them clean and dry so the cases drop out quick and clean. If you pull the hammer back, you could place a single drop of oil down into the frame. That will keep the small internal mechanisms lubed.
 
There is one place I was taught to lube on a revolver not mentioned in the other posts (sorry I don't know the name of the part).

With the cylinder swung out on the inside frame is a little semicircular thingy just above the trigger that locks the cylinder in place. I was taught to put a drop of oil on this thing. The oil finds its way down into the trigger and lubes the trigger mechanism. I was taught to do this last when cleaning then close the cylinder and then dry fire the revolver 10 or so times to get the trigger lubed up.
 
General cleaning & lubing advice:

Try this:

I've used this procedure on all civilian guns for over 30 years, except that I don't think I had Breakfree and Rem Oil for the whole time:
1. Clean entire gun with Hoppe's #9, one of the smells of freedom, the other being burnt JP 4, or Breakfree aerosol (carburetor cleaner works almost as good), depending on how dirty the gun is. Use a bronze bristle brush in the barrels and chambers to break up the crud, then cotton patches on a slotted tip until clean. Use a jag for a couple of swipes to get that last bit of crud out of the barrel. Use an old bristle brush to clean the bolt/breech face on rifles and autos and the cylinder face on revolvers. Scrub around the forcing cone with the bristle brush if shooting lead bullets out of a revolver.
2. Saturate with WD 40 (no, I've never had a problem) or Rem Oil, whichever comes to hand first.
3. Wipe off thoroughly with cotton rag and Q tips and slotted tip/jag with cotton patches. Get chambers bone dry (oil can kill primers).
4. Drip tiny drops of Hoppe's gun oil or similar on points of wear.
5. For autos, put a little dab of a good grease like Rig (or the old black Outers/Garcia stuff) on the slide rails and any bright spots. Ditto on friction and wear points in a rifle. Speaking of rifles, if a gas powered auto, clean the gas ports and tubes with a pipe cleaner. On M 16s and similar, make sure the key ways on the bolt rings are out of line.
6. Apply very thin coat of Hoppe's gun oil in barrel using a wool or cotton mop.
7. Thoroughly wipe off any excess.
8. Before a range session, run a clean patch through the barrel.
For magazines and moon clips, I use only Hoppe's #9 and dry thoroughly. Absolutely no oil, it can kill primers.
In the military we used milspec bore cleaner and LSA. Worked great. If you're on a budget get some of these at a surplus outlet and you'll be OK. Lots of guys have used thin motor oil or transmission fluid for gun oil with good results too.
 
worth reading

Thank you to OH25shooter; the advise not to lube the cylinders is commonsense, but I must have missed out when it was given to people, because I have been lubricating mine, and of course, wandering why the rounds were not just dropping out.

"You learn something new every day."
 
If you have a Dan Wesson, put a small drop of gun grease in the hole before you screw in the barrel nut. The 'smith at the DW plant in New York told me to do that.
 
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