When you say, "lubricate cases"...

[Shivahasagun]

Newbie question:

Does that always mean the same thing?

For example I've only reloaded pistol cases. Although I don't need to i spray some oil (common Frankfurt Arsenal case lube) into my nitrile-gloved hand and handle most of the cases just to get a little oil on most of them.

It makes my Lee Turret run a little smoother. (I use Lee carbide dies)

When people talk about "lubricating cases" is this all they're talking about?

Is it the same as rifle cases?

There is never a time you'd want lube inside the case, right? That seems like something to avoid.

 

[barnfrog]

Many people lube the inside of bottleneck rifle cases just a little bit.

 

[74man]

If you watch the RCBS videos he states to use a cotton swab and just wipe the inside of the neck which makes the bullet seat better, I was told not to lube the neck of bottleneck rifle cases, maybe they were talking about the outside of the neck, I really don't know.
When you use carbide dies, which are pistol cases, you don't have to lube them but it doesn't hurt anything if you do and it makes sure you don't get a stuck case inside your dies. Just a little infor to keep in the back of your mind.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

With pistol cases, I toss them in a big bowl and give them a 1 or 2 second blast of Hornady One Shot Case Lube just to make sizing easier.

I don't load a lot of rifle in one sitting. I use a RCBS case lube pad and RCBS lube.

 

[AJC1]

This is a process question. I never lube pistol cases. I use several types of lube on rifle cases. Redding sizing wax is first choice, and lanolin concoctions for 223. If you use a mandrel in rifle, just like pistol lube on the inside of the case is not nessary. People that use expander balls say it helps.

 

[Obturation]

A little lube works ok on everything , if you put too much you'll gets dents in cases from the hydraulic pressure. With carbide dies you don't need to lube but it doesn't hurt, with rifle cases you'll have to lube them, not too much and not too little. Everyone's got their own method.

 

[cfullgraf]

When using steel sizing dies, you need to lubricate the cases.

These days, most straight walled hand gun sizing dies are carbide and in most cases do not require lubricated cases. (30 Carbine is an exception). But in the past, most hand gun case dies were steel so if you buy used dies, make sure what they are and use lubricant with steel sizing dies.

Some folks use lubricant when using carbide dies. Things go alot smoother when the cases are lubricated but the lubricant should be cleaned off the cases after sizing.

Most bottleneck case dies are steel and require lubrication. Besides the outside of the case, a little lubricant inside the neck makes the expander button go smoother. You have to be careful not to over lubricate the cases as you will begin to get hydraulic dents in the neck area.

There are a couple carbide dies for cartridges like 223 Rem and 308 Win. They are expen$ive and are designed for high volume loaders that might wear out a steel die. They require the cases to be lubricated.

There are a number of different lubricants and methods. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Try a couple of different ones and find the one that you like.

Finally, get a stuck case removal kit.

 

[AzShooter1]

I use Hornady One Shot on all my cases. I also use carbide dies. I've never had a stuck case and the sizing movement is nice and smooth.

On my Dillon 650 with case feeder all I do is spray the cases in the hopper and then go to works.

 

[Hugger-4641]

I use Hornady one shot. On pistol cases I spray a handful of cases and insert these lubed cases about every 10th case. On rifle cases I line them up on a blue shop paper towel with the mouth towards me. I spray sparingly such that a little bit does get inside the mouth and then I roll them 180% and repeat.
I've never stuck a pistol case, but if you forget to lube a bottle neck rifle case, it most likely will get stuck.

 

[BJung]

I never lube pistol cases since carbide dies came out. As for rifle cases, I use Hornady One shot on the body and insert half the neck into imperial wax to lube it. As a result, I avoid spraying lube on the shoulders and creating the shoulder indentations.

 

[swg1]

A reloading manual. Buy one. Read it. Not trying to be harsh. Reloading 101.

 

[dcloco]

Don't use a wet/spray/grease on the inside of any case mouths. Even if that brand says it does no harm to powder, it can, and will.

Dry lube (Imperial is a good brand) works excellent for lubing the case mouth.

Straight wall cases, do not need lube (GENERALLY), because you slightly bell the case mouth to help in bullet seating.

 

[ms6852]

I use imperial sizing wax, I just gently touch the wax with my fingertip ever so lightly to just live a fingerprint if at all, and then twirl the case between finger and thumb.

 

[kalielkslayer]

For years I only loaded bottle neck rifle cases thus the old RCBS pad and lube. You learned quickly the error of too much lube, or not enough lube.

Since I started loading pistol cartridges, I use Hornady 1 shot. I put the brass, usually 500 or so, in a cardboard box. I spray a shot or 2, rotate the brass and another shot or 2. Then I mix it up.

BUT I deprime and size at the same time. Then I put the brass back in the tumbler. Many don’t like this addition step. But my brass size’s easily and my primer pockets get clean with the stainless steel pins.

Once my brass is dry, it’s good to receive a primer, powder and a bullet.

I haven’t used Hornady 1 shot on my bottle neck rifle brass yet buy I plan on doing the same thing. In my experience, the bullet will slide in just fine if it is aligned correctly.

On bottle neck rifle cartridges I start to seat the bullet, lift the press, rotate the case 1/3, start to seat a lil deeper, lift press, rotate 1/3 more and complete seating the bullet. Really doesn’t take much time to do it this way.

 

[MikeInOr]

Newbie question:

Does that always mean the same thing?
For example I've only reloaded pistol cases. Although I don't need to i spray some oil (common Frankfurt Arsenal case lube) into my nitrile-gloved hand and handle most of the cases just to get a little oil on most of them.

Yep, just a little lube from your Nitrile glove should be fine.

It makes my Lee Turret run a little smoother. (I use Lee carbide dies)

There are several ways to accomplish the same thing but go with what ever works for you. The one shot spray lube is quick and easy. For straight wall cases I use RCBS lube dies in my Dillon 650 pregressive press.

When people talk about "lubricating cases" is this all they're talking about?

Yep, that is pretty much it.

Is it the same as rifle cases?

For bottle neck rifle cases I dump them in a cardboard box and spray some of the Dillon Lanoline based lube on them then jiggle them around. The inside of the cardboard is actually so saturated that I seldom even spray the case lube on the cases, I just jiggle them around in the saturated cardboard box.

There is never a time you'd want lube inside the case, right? That seems like something to avoid.

I have never lubed the inside neck of any cases. I have always considered this a bad idea but I have no actual evidence to back this up.

 

[Hugger-4641]

I have never lubed the inside neck of any cases. I have always considered this a bad idea but I have no actual evidence to back this up

It is generally a bad idea, but I tested Hornady's claim and it's true. IF YOU LET IT DRY, it will not affect powder or primer. So a tiny, tiny bit in the mouth of a bottle neck case does help the expander ball slide in better.

 

[JDeere]

Carbide dies for pistol cases and no lube required at my bench and has never been a problem.

For years I used the Lee Lube in the tube by hand on the outside of the cases and a q tip inside the neck. Not enough lube inside the neck and they will stick and it does not matter what kind of lube it is. Stick one case and you learn to not do it again. I have gone to the One Shot lube for rifle cases now days and apply it like the instructions say. After thousands of rounds using One Shot outside and inside the necks it does not affect the powder when you follow the directions. ymmv

 

[cfullgraf]

There is never a time you'd want lube inside the case, right? That seems like something to avoid.

Wrong.

With bottleneck cases, a little lubricant inside the case mouth helps the expander button slide through the neck easier. Running a dry expander button stretches the case a bit when the expander button is withdrawn from the case.

Using lubricant designed for case sizing, it is not an issue.

I lubricate the inside of the case neck about every third or fourth case. Generally, there is enough lubricant left behind on the expander button for a few dry cases. You will quickly get a feel for how frequently you need to lubricate the inside of the case neck for smooth operation.

In my process, I tumble clean the cases after sizing to remove the lubricant on the outside and inside of the case.

Removing the lubricant makes the case easier to handle and you get less of a mess on your hands. If you do not have a tumbler, you could hand wipe down the outside of the case by hand after sizing and what lubricant left inside the case mouth will not be an issue.

For most handgun cases, lubricant is not needed for expanding the case mouth.

 

[Remington1911]

Another vote for imperial. I use both the wax and the dry (i think just graphite powder). Finger rub on the wax, kinda like shoe polish, then after it is slippy stick its nose in the dry black powder. Tap case on the side of the container, then for good measure I tap it nose down on an old cup from a beam scale, keeps the black dust all in one spot. Then size as normal, clean off with a towel, I use a golf towel, golf is good for something. They have a little clip on them and I just clip it to the press, it is always just hanging there.

You will find the wax takes some of the krud off the brass as well, I generally don't need to tumble anymore, they are fine.

 

[AJC1]

Another vote for imperial. I use both the wax and the dry (i think just graphite powder). Finger rub on the wax, kinda like shoe polish, then after it is slippy stick its nose in the dry black powder. Tap case on the side of the container, then for good measure I tap it nose down on an old cup from a beam scale, keeps the black dust all in one spot. Then size as normal, clean off with a towel, I use a golf towel, golf is good for something. They have a little clip on them and I just clip it to the press, it is always just hanging there.

You will find the wax takes some of the krud off the brass as well, I generally don't need to tumble anymore, they are fine.

I find imperial if wiped off with a shop rag leaves behind just enough to protect the cases, and prevent the dreaded finger prints that turn the case ugly fast. It is a lot more work, but I use the time to regulate my dwell time in the die.

 

[barnfrog]

I find imperial if wiped off with a shop rag leaves behind just enough to protect the cases, and prevent the dreaded finger prints that turn the case ugly fast. It is a lot more work, but I use the time to regulate my dwell time in the die.

A useful technique I learned from you here on this forum. Always helpful stuff around here if you keep your eyes and mind open.

 

[ms6852]

On my brass for my AR's I use a dry lube on the neck. The dry lube is made by Lyman, have yet to have issue with it.

 

[.308 Norma]

Is it the same as rifle cases?

There are quite a few "straight-walled" rifle cases - like "straight-walled" pistol cases. And there are many rifles that are chambered for "strait-walled" pistol cartridges.
Nevertheless, I'm pretty sure I know what you meant - you meant "bottle-necked" rifle cases. Right?
If so, my answer is simply, yes, lubing straight-walled "pistol cases" is pretty much the same as lubing bottle-necked "rifle cases." Except, if you get too much lube on bottle-necked "rifle cases," you'll end up with dents in the case's shoulders.
Edited to add: I try to avoid getting any lube at all on the shoulders of bottle-necked rifle cases. And any lube I get inside the mouths of any cases (either straight-walled or bottle-necked) I clean out before I charge them with powder - or even seat the primers for that matter.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Me personally, I'm kinda situational in my use of lube. Depends on what I'm resizing and how the arthritis in my elbow is that day. Rifle brass always gets finger touched with Imperial wax. Some of my straight-wall cartridges get expanded a good bit so they'll get the same - just a dab'll do ya when it comes to Imperial. Good for moustaches, too. If my shoulder or elbow are hurting I'll use a dab of 3-in-1 oil to just kiss my harder to size pistol brass - .44Mag, .357Max, etc. - then use a carbide die. It's not for the cases. its for me. A little slickering up just helps them go a little easier. Everything else that needs to be said has been said but just remember this: a little lube is a good thing; too much of even a good thing is bad.

 

[HowieG]

I use Imperial sizing wax on the outside of my cases and just a tiny amount on the inside of my case necks. As noted above, you get added wear and possible stretching with a dry expander. I actually use a mandrel so I am not worried about stretching, but a touch of lube helps the mandrel work. I picked up using Imperial inside the necks from Glen Zediker's HANLOADING FOR COMPETITION. I tried graphite powder once, but the stuff migrates into the air and gets on stuff. Also, it is not good to breath it in. After sizing, my cases go into the vibratory tumbler for a short time to clean off the film of Imperial.

FYI, Zediker states in his book that a slight film of Imperial inside the neck has zero effect on shooting, and actually might help a touch with consistent bullet release.