which C&B revolver?

Status
Not open for further replies.
nah, i think im good with an 1858 and 1863 cap and ball and the associated cartridge conversions for them
 
hmm, i did notice one thing about the ruger old army... the kirst converter for that is a 6 shot, but only a 5-shot for the 1858... thats a bonus, i may give the old army more consideration

curious though, anyone know of a gated .44 colt conversion for the 1860? ive been wanting to convert mine to this caliber
 
Last edited:
hmm, i did notice one thing about the ruger old army... the kirst converter for that is a 6 shot, but only a 5-shot for the 1858... thats a bonus, i may give the old army more consideration

curious though, anyone know of a gated .44 colt conversion for the 1860? ive been wanting to convert mine to this caliber
If you do a gated conversion, you no longer have the ability to fire cap and ball. You sure you want that?
 
why would you lose the ability to use cap and balls?.. the gated piece in the kirsk conversion looks mostly drop-in except for cuttoung out the side large enough to fit a cartridge which wouldnt interfere with the caps
 
.44 colt seems to be ballistically about the same as 45 colt, seems to take just as much work to make ammo as it would 45 colt but the difference is i could get six of them into the 1860 or 1858 with no issues... i already have a supply of 44 special brass i could chop down for it.. i wish someone made gated conversions for it
 
I don't know of any gated conversions, but there are the Taylor's conversions where the back of the cylinder pulls off.

I would just stick with a .45 Colt conversion, it's the best round to fire from the .44 c&b guns.
 
plus to the others on here I like my NAA super cap and ball revolver and next i'll be buyin the 1860 earl model due to it having a 4in barrel! the companion uses 2 1/2gr of 4f and the super companion uses 4gr of 4f bp.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have a pair of these:

http://www.buffaloarms.com/Firearms_Buffalo_Arms_Company_it-158811.aspx?CAT=3958

that I got when they first came out.

The gate is ATTACHED to the back of the frame and the cartridge cylinder pops in and out for cleaning like a c&b cylinder by dropping the ram lever and pulling the cylinder pin but a Remy c&b cylinder will not fit as it is longer than the cartridge one.

If you want to shoot BOTH c&b and cartridge, I think you sacrifice the convenience of a loading gate.

I can't speak to their ability to take game but the above put .45 cowboy loads ($$$) right where I point them.

My only complaint is that the ejector rod is not very robust!!! It gets bent and sticks until I straighten it out.
 
that is a permanent conversion done by cimarron, not a kirst converter which everything ive seen about them say they are designed to just be a drop-in, hogging out a recess on the right side so you can use the loading lever is optional and wouldnt prevent it from being used with caps

if the ruger old army could at least use some of the spare parts as their blackhawk or vaqueros, then id be very interested in that one, if not then id stick with the 1858 remington.. if there are any black powder cylinders available for something like a blackhawk or a vaquero, that would also interest me
 
Last edited:
forget the conversions, i dont actually need the revolver to even need that capability, the entire pistol itself would just be kept around as a last resort when conventional ammo supplies are gone.. its not going to be carried as a sidearm on a regular basis so i might as well opt for the added power and range of a walker or dragoon, or stick with the 1858, 40 grains and a ball should get the job done

are there any improved walker revolvers out there?.. for example, one that doesnt drop its loading lever every time you fire it?
 
Last edited:
I have a pair of these:

http://www.buffaloarms.com/Firearms_Buffalo_Arms_Company_it-158811.aspx?CAT=3958

that I got when they first came out.

The gate is ATTACHED to the back of the frame and the cartridge cylinder pops in and out for cleaning like a c&b cylinder by dropping the ram lever and pulling the cylinder pin but a Remy c&b cylinder will not fit as it is longer than the cartridge one.

If you want to shoot BOTH c&b and cartridge, I think you sacrifice the convenience of a loading gate.

I can't speak to their ability to take game but the above put .45 cowboy loads ($$$) right where I point them.

My only complaint is that the ejector rod is not very robust!!! It gets bent and sticks until I straighten it out.
I think Arnold Swartzeneger described that one in Predator! :)
 
I bought a Taylors conversion cyl. from the Possible Shop and it works well. I use a quick release with it.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00015.jpg
    DSC00015.jpg
    123.7 KB · Views: 12
Well, Justin today at 12:47 PM you said

"nah, i think im good with an 1858 and 1863 cap and ball and the associated cartridge conversions for them"

Now today at 4:31 PM you said,

"forget the conversions, i dont actually need the revolver to even need that capability"

That's not even four frickin hours ago. :banghead:
 
There's one more small c&b worth mentioning, although I doubt you'll be interested. The North American Arms 4" Earl:

1860-cb_1.jpg


It's a 5 shot .22 caliber. It's loaded off the gun with a special loader that NAA supplies. The only thing you may not like is that there are no molds for bullets, but the good news is the bullets are very cheap, 8 bucks for 250 bullets and being a .22 it will use very little powder per shot. I think it was something like 2 or 3 grains per chamber.
Looks like an embryonic ROA! :D
 
Well, Justin today at 12:47 PM you said

"nah, i think im good with an 1858 and 1863 cap and ball and the associated cartridge conversions for them"

Now today at 4:31 PM you said,

"forget the conversions, i dont actually need the revolver to even need that capability"

That's not even four frickin hours ago. :banghead:
its a bonus, just not a necessaity and it seems like im putting too much focus on that bonus that i really dont need, so id rather it not be the determining factor but find a reliable revolver one can hunt with first, and then consider conversions later.. i like the 1858s, the ROAs seem cool too, but i have to think more about what i need than what i want
 
does anyone know if the old army shares ANY parts compatibility with any of the current model rugers?
 
its a bonus, just not a necessaity and it seems like im putting too much focus on that bonus that i really dont need, so id rather it not be the determining factor but find a reliable revolver one can hunt with first, and then consider conversions later.. i like the 1858s, the ROAs seem cool too, but i have to think more about what i need than what i want
For whatever you feel you have the NEED for, the ROA is best. It's better than Walker's, Dragoons, 1858's, 1860's, etc. You've been told that the ROA is exactly what you described that you feel you need. There are plenty of ROA's out there that if you need a replacement part, it will not be difficult to procure. Now, 20 years in the future, that may be different, but by then Ruger may have brought them back.

If you want the next best thing below a ROA, then you've chosen it in an 1858. It has better sights, whether they're fixed or adjustable, then the Colt patterns, it's not a clunker like the Walker/Dragoon, and it's simple to put in a conversion to shoot .45 Colt.

If you just want raw power in a handgun for hunting, but still have the inkling of a cartridge firing gun, then stop looking at c&b revolvers and look at the .45 Colt Ruger Blackhawk. That gun will always be in production, so parts will always be available.
 
does anyone know if the old army shares ANY parts compatibility with any of the current model rugers?
Not many. I don't know all of them but the blackhawk hammer spring assembly is one I don't recall but I am sure there are some others.

The Ruger Old Army shares most of the parts (except for the hammer and cylinder of course) of the old model 3 screw blackhawk that they stopped making in 1973. Those parts are to my knowlege the trigger, trigger return spring and plunger, pawl, cynlinder latch and spring, most of the screws, hammer spring assembly, and the grip frame.

That changed when Ruger went to the transfer bar system.

It's rumered that Ruger switched to the transfer bar system on the blackhawks due to people blaming and sueing them after injuries resulting from discharges due to negligence.

Newer models have different triggers which are not shaped anything like the old blackhawks or old armys. The pawl and cylinder latch don't fit either but they can be reshaped with a file. The new cylinder latch needs to have a pin punched out and maybe hole widened with drill (I don't recall.)

The new blackhawk uses the updated XR00300 grip frame which is very easily adapted to fit an old army in place of the old XR3-RED grip frame used in it and the older model blackhawks. You do have to drop in fit and pin an easily fabricrated part to house to old armys trigger return spring and plunger.
 
Last edited:
ok, ill keep that in mind.. ive had my 1860 army break a couple parts and luckily it shares most parts with every SAA clone out there (broke the spring that sits above the trigger guard).. so its good to have something you can find parts for, thats definitely a negative on the ROA... too bad they didnt still make them

one thing i didnt like about the ROA is having to turn a screw to remove the base pin and change the cylinder, much quicker and tool-less on the remingtons
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top