Which dies for 38 Spec?

[gahunter12]

Ok this will be the first time that I have reloaded for 38 spec. What does everyone suggest for carbide dies for a 38 spec. I understand that I need to roll crimp these rounds for the revolver. My wife just purchased her first pistol today and I plan on loading her practice rounds. I will be looking for a very soft recoil load that she can shoot during extended range sessions.

P.S.- I use a Dillon RL550b. I will be setting up a tool head with dillon powder die with powder measure. Just looking for a good die set with out spending lots $$ for dillon dies.

 

[beatledog7]

My .38/.357 dies are RCBS, and they work well. If you buy RCBS, be sure to check whether the seating die is cut to roll crimp or taper crimp. RCBS sells them both ways for use with bullets with or without canelure.

 

[Hondo 60]

I have used Lee, RCBS & Redding dies.
I've found no discernible difference.
There are some here who'll argue with me about that, but that's my findings.

And when you shop for dies, you'll find that Lee is almost 1/2 the price of other dies.

Just my 2¢ worth.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I use a lot of Lee dies because they don't cost a lot and they produce good ammo. I do have some RCBS and Hornady dies too and all work well and do what they were made to do.

 

[chhodge69]

I use the Lee 3-die set for 38 special with no problems. If you're loading lead many will recommend the Lyman "M" expander die. If you're loading 357 as well I'll recommend getting a separate crimp die.

 

[James2]

Any of the major manufacturer's dies work fine. Lee sets cost less and you get a shell holder and a dipper with the set. I don't like Lee lock rings. I would just be sure to get a carbide sizer.

 

[gahunter12]

I do know that I want to seat and crimp on separate dies. I will be expanding with the dillon expander/powder die. Does Berry's plated bullets have the canelure on there 38/357 bullets? If not I guess I would still taper crimp? Carbide dies will be a must. I currently have Dillon dies for my two current cal. Both being 40 and 45 semi autos. I'm not sure if the dillon dies roll crimp or not. Thanks!

 

[Mike 27]

The last box of berry's I bought last year for 38 did not have a cannelure.

 

[billybob44]

with out spending lots $$ for dillon dies.

I go Dillon all the way on my hand gun loads on my RL550.
I have two Dillon sets for these calibers, one set up for .38Spl., and the other set up for .357Mag.
You will find, over time that the Dillon's are worth their $'s.
If you plan to load any cast bullets, their New Dimension dies can be dis-assembled to clean bullet/lube shavings without losing the die adjustments.
The Dillons also have a larger opening so that the cases feed into the dies better than any other Mfg.

I placed an order with Dillon for a new case cleaner, 30 ammo boxes, new lock rings, and tool heads. I paid for these..

Dillon also sent me two seater stems (that I messed up), two retainer pins (that I lost), and a FREE 1" Bench Wrench ($8.95 Value).

TRY getting that kind of service out of Lee??
RCBS/Redding-Maybe??

Just my two cents worth...Bill.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I do know that I want to seat and crimp on separate dies.

Lee sells both 3 die and 4 die sets and the seating die in both sets will also crimp when adjusted to do so.

 

[billybob44]

I will be setting up a tool head with dillon powder die with powder measure.

To me, it would just make sense to complete this set up with new Dillon Dies.
There IS a reason that they cost more--They are BETTER...Bill

 

[rikman]

Just set up my 2nd 550B in 38Spl with Dillon dies. Just work nice & no problem with roll crimp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fishslayer]

I use the Lee carbide four die set. Very happy with it.

 

[Josh45]

If your going to get dies, Get CARBIDE dies. If you go with Lee, Get the 4 die set in carbide.

Also get the dies that can also do .357 magnum. In case you ever get a.357 mag, You won't have to get a new set of dies. the .357 mag dies will also do .38 spcl.


But the .38 spcl WILL NOT do .357 mags.

 

[Paladin38-40]

Minimum loads

First, carbide resizing die definately.

My powder puff .38 special load is a 130 grain Magnus #509 SWC over 3.0 grains of Bullseye. This gives 572 fps from a 4" barrel. It is easy on arthritic wrists and new gun-shy shooters using a K-frame revolver.

How low can you go? The 1969 NRA Handloaders Guide, (p. 255-256) has a section on minimum .38 loads with a 148 grain full w/c bullet. It shows .75 grains of Bullseye gave a working load of 195 fps in a 2" barrel without sticking, but did stick in a 6" barrel. The load had to be increased to 1.25 grains of Bullseye for 272 fps for a minimun working load in a 6" barrel. I doubt you would ever need to go this low but it's nice to know as an academic nugget.

 

[gahunter12]

Looks like I will be going with dillon. I do really like Dillon dies. I just wanted to test the waters, and see what others thought. 1 more question. If the bullets don't have a canelure, do I just apply a taper crimp as I do with my semi autos?

 

[billybob44]

.38Spl.Crimp??

For the crimp it is mostly "Each to His Own".

If the bullet design has a top groove, I crimp on that. If no groove or canalure, you can taper crimp.
If your loads are very light, it can be done either way.

BTW, the only .38Spl. loads that I taper crimp are Full Wad Cutter bullets, that I seat flush with the case.
Most all jacketed/plated bullets will have a canalure, most all cast bullets (other than WC) will have a crimp groove.
Again, with "Powder Puff" loads, a very light groove is all that is needed.

As you get into loading, you will find particular bullets that you really like. With each of these loads, load yourself a "Dummy Bullet" (NO primer or powder), and save it for future use on setting up your seater length. This will cut back on your transition time on change over from one design to another.

I have been loading ammo for right at 40 years, and DO NOT, by any means know it all, but I started with a RCBS RockChucker (that I still load most rifle loads on), and use mostly RCBS/Redding dies for. My BEAUTIFUL Wife bought me a RL550 around 20 years ago, and I transitioned over to Dillon dies for it, with my hand gun loads.

Feel free to PM me if I can help you with any questions that you may have...Bill.


PS:GREAT Choice on moving up to Dillon Dies...

 

[Walkalong]

Most die sets these days are for both .38 & .357, but you can get dies set up strictly for .357. They will not load .38 Spl.

Redding makes a spacer you can use. Set the die up for .38, and then use the spacer to load .357. I did that for years before buying a second set of dies. Now I use one sizer for both, with separate expanders, roll crimp dies, and taper crimp dies, while using one Redding Competition seater for both.

 

[gahunter12]

Thanks Billybob44! I will be loading fairly light loads since this is for my wife's new revolver. She will be carring 357mag which she does well with, but she also admits it's not fun running 100+ rnds of 357mag at the range.

 

[RustyFN]

The Dillons also have a larger opening so that the cases feed into the dies better than any other Mfg.

Correct which means that Dillon dies don't size the case down as far as other brands either.

TRY getting that kind of service out of Lee??

I did. I got a free wooden handle for my pro 4-20 casting pot, a free decaping pin for my 223 die and a free plastic ratchet piece for my classic turret. That's all I have needed so far. Lee dies are also easier to adjust if you change bullet profiles a lot. I use all lee dies on my 550.

 

[gamestalker]

I seat and crimp in the same step. It's really not difficult to do if you get the die adjusted correctly, and make sure all your brass is trimmed to the same lengths.
For light powder puff target loads, a taper crimp will work just fine. Just make sure you check your bullets for jump or set back betwen shots for the first cylinder or two.
So far as dies, I use both RCBS and Lee, but I don't load lead either, so I doubt that helps you much.

 

[billybob44]

Correct which means that Dillon dies don't size the case down as far as other brands either.



I did. I got a free wooden handle for my pro 4-20 casting pot, a free decaping pin for my 223 die and a free plastic ratchet piece for my classic turret. That's all I have needed so far. Lee dies are also easier to adjust if you change bullet profiles a lot. I use all lee dies on my 550.

Correct which means that Dillon dies don't size the case down as far as other brands either. ==That is NOT needed in MOST hand gun loads.

There you go Rusty=Fixed it for you..Bill

 

[RustyFN]

Correct which means that Dillon dies don't size the case down as far as other brands either. ==That is NOT needed in MOST hand gun loads.

There you go Rusty=Fixed it for you..Bill

Correct which means that Dillon dies don't size the case down as far as other brands either. ==That is NOT needed in MOST hand gun loads. But when you find a case where you need to size farther down and the Dillon dies won't work, the Lee dies will.

There you go Bill=Fixed it for you.

 

[GT1]

+1 for Lee dies.

Pretty difficult to argue with dies that are as good as any out there and are half the cost.

It's only money, though. Some people insist on driving a Hummer to take the kids to soccer. As long as one is happy.

 

[Sam1911]

Lee dies work REALLY well in my 550, and I find the Lee lock rings usually work just great as well, though I tend to flip them upside down to use on the 550 toolhead.

I've got some Dillon dies. They seem good enough, and are helpful if you really need to get rid of extra cash somehow.

I've always bought 4-die sets, but I've quit using the 4th die (FCD) for revolver cartridges. The seat/crimp die (3rd position) does a great job by itself and runs a lot smoother, especially with cast bullets.