Which steel do you prefer?
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Kingcreek
Member
I know there are newer wondersteels but I still like D2, especially the way Bob Dozier does it. All my D2 knives were heat treated by Paul Bos.
I also like the handforged highcarbon steels like Roselli, etc
I also like the handforged highcarbon steels like Roselli, etc
351 WINCHESTER
Member
I don't make knives, but my favorite is high carbon as used by Schade and their high carbon stainless. Easy to sharpen and holds a good edge.
Black Toe Knives
Member
CPM 154 for Stainless and D2 for Carbon Steel, to be honest I don't even use D2 anymore.
auschip
Member
I have purchased all of the Spyderco Mule knives so I can play with the various different steels, and thus far my favorite has been CPM-S35VN. I will say that the latest Aogami Super Blue steel is very nice, but I haven't done any cutting with it (did shave a nice spot on the arm though). Hopefully I can spend some time cutting with it and decide if it will pass the S35VN.
The flip side of that, is I wasn't impressed with the S90V or the 9Cr18Mo (at least compared to some of the others).
The flip side of that, is I wasn't impressed with the S90V or the 9Cr18Mo (at least compared to some of the others).
Zeke/PA
Member
One can make a VERY good knife from a file.
O-1 Oil hardening tool steel is an excellent choice, easily worked and easily "hardened by eye".
D-2 is a World War I era die steel, Air - Hardening, with a high abrasion restistance.
In my toolmaking days, I made a ton of stuff from D-2 and the steel performed SUPERBLY especially where PAPER had to punched,sliced,cut and or applied.
D-2 makes up into an exceptional knife blade the main difficulty, getting a sharp edge to start with.
O-1 Oil hardening tool steel is an excellent choice, easily worked and easily "hardened by eye".
D-2 is a World War I era die steel, Air - Hardening, with a high abrasion restistance.
In my toolmaking days, I made a ton of stuff from D-2 and the steel performed SUPERBLY especially where PAPER had to punched,sliced,cut and or applied.
D-2 makes up into an exceptional knife blade the main difficulty, getting a sharp edge to start with.
I'm still trying out steels. The 1095 on my Izula takes a real beating with no problems. I hear Esee does a good job with their heat treat and that's what makes the difference. The 154CM on my Manix 2 seems good, though I did get a little chipping from stabbing canning lids to break the pressure seal. It'll get little specs of rust spot every now and then that I can just rub off with my finger. I have a Mora with their carbon steel that seems good, though I haven't really beat on it as it's not a full tang. It's held an edge really well. I soaked it in vinegar to patina it and haven't had any rust since then.
bikerdoc
Moderator In Memoriam
1095, and old files for my homemade stuff
S30V and VG 10 from Spyderco
S30V and VG 10 from Spyderco
JTW Jr.
Member
I like D2 , especially with the heat treat being done by Paul Bos ( and now Mr Farner who runs Bos HT ) , I have used S30v , don't care for it much , kind of a pain in the arse to work with to get a nice finish.
I have worked a bit with ATS-34 recently , not bad stuff , not real clean , found many inclusions in the three 36" bars I had. Was able to work around them though.
A steel I found that ground nicely , took a nice edge and a nice finish was Boehler N690.
CPM154 was a nice steel to work , did all the grinding of the bevels after heat treat , it was still a pleasure to grind even after HT ( not so much with S30v).
My personal knife is one I made from D2 , I use it a lot , it holds a nice edge , ground it kind of thin , only touch it up once in awhile on the cardboard wheels.
I have worked a bit with ATS-34 recently , not bad stuff , not real clean , found many inclusions in the three 36" bars I had. Was able to work around them though.
A steel I found that ground nicely , took a nice edge and a nice finish was Boehler N690.
CPM154 was a nice steel to work , did all the grinding of the bevels after heat treat , it was still a pleasure to grind even after HT ( not so much with S30v).
My personal knife is one I made from D2 , I use it a lot , it holds a nice edge , ground it kind of thin , only touch it up once in awhile on the cardboard wheels.
Jalexander
Member
My absolute favorite is 52100, but I like most non-stainless steels. O1 is good, 1095 and 1084 are good. I don't like stainless steels much, but S30V is a good one.
James
James
zignal_zero
Member
52100
I like stainless, but my favorite knife is 52100, and 2nd fav is 5160. My folders are mostly VG-10 and S30V.
Both the first two are fixed blades, and I abused the hell out of the Justice in 52100 in Afghanistan. Only potential complaint is that it rusts easily. The VG-10 and S30V stay sharp a long time, and resist rust fairly well.
John
Both the first two are fixed blades, and I abused the hell out of the Justice in 52100 in Afghanistan. Only potential complaint is that it rusts easily. The VG-10 and S30V stay sharp a long time, and resist rust fairly well.
John
It sounds like there is a good deal of experience and expertise with the different steels. I'm just a carryin' type of guy and my benchmades are 44C and not really sure what the old buck fixed baldes are (20 year old knives) and then there are my SAKs...havent a clue what they are made from either.
TimboKhan
Member
I like S30V for a few different reasons, though as I have become more educated about steel, I am not nearly so snobbish about it. Possibly it is too brittle for serious outdoors work, but for day to day work, it is still my favorite. I also happen to like good ol' 440C.
By merit of my oft-publicized love of Spyderco Enduras, I also love me some VG-10.
By merit of my oft-publicized love of Spyderco Enduras, I also love me some VG-10.
mgregg85
Member
I have little experience with knives but i've had the best luck with high carbon steels. My becker bk-9 can be made sharp enough to shave with very easily and with a good convex edge its a great chopper. The BK-9 won't hold its edge for as long as the new wonder steels but it is super easy to sharpen and I prefer that.
REAPER4206969
Member
I've recently became a fan of Case's Chrome Vanadium.
Black Toe Knives
Member
The new CPM S35VN fixed the brittleness problems of S30V. CPM S35VN is a collaboration between Crucible and Chris Reeve. So it is not a tool steel that just happen to be a good knife steel. It is serious knife steel designed by a top Knifemaker and the top steel maker.
I have 8 CPM S35VN folder blades ready for heat treat in my tool box.
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TimboKhan
Member
Cool! Thanks for the info, Jim. I started out not knowing anything about steel, and now I know just enough to know that I still don't know squat! I have found it to be interesting to learn about, so I appreciate getting taught new stuff.
Every serious outdoors knife I have looked purchasing is carbon steel for the exact reason you mentioned. However, I suck at sharpening and so carry a little pull through sharpener in the field. It's a good stopgap measure, though I really wish my skills in sharpening would improve. Currently, my main outdoors knife is just a regular old Mora, and I have found that the even I can get a pretty decent edge on a Scandi grind. Plus, it only cost me like 13 bucks.
Every serious outdoors knife I have looked purchasing is carbon steel for the exact reason you mentioned. However, I suck at sharpening and so carry a little pull through sharpener in the field. It's a good stopgap measure, though I really wish my skills in sharpening would improve. Currently, my main outdoors knife is just a regular old Mora, and I have found that the even I can get a pretty decent edge on a Scandi grind. Plus, it only cost me like 13 bucks.
pistolpacker
Member
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CPM S30V is my favorite. Not a big fan of carbon steel blades for the sole reason that I don't need a blade i have to baby to keep from staining or showing signs of corrosion. D2 steel is the exception because its about 1% chromium content away from being a true stainless steel and affords much better corrosion resistance than many carbon blades.
HoosierQ
Member
There is a lot of great steel out there and some is not terribly expensive.
1095 - Heat treated right (ESEE does it better than anybody, Bos too) does everything very very well except resist rust...which it doesn't do at all. Force a patina and put it away dry and you'll have no problems.
VG-10 - Good stainless (it will rust under very bad conditions) which takes a very sharp edge and is easy to maintain.
Sandvik 12c27 - Ditto.
AUS-8. Underrated stainless. Takes a very sharp edge.
154CM. Good Stainless.
420HC. The way Buck does it...a very good stainless (Bos heat treat). Other makers I'd be a little leary of.
CPM S30V - A very good stainless with takes a good edge and really holds it but you will need diamonds to do any serious resharpening. This is a "super steel".
CPM 3V - Just a crazy tough steel...crazy tough!!! Not stainless. Pretty much a custom only option and you seldom see it with any sort of fancy grind because it is so hard to work with...but once sharp you can practically cut forever with it. Woe betide you when it comes time to resharpen.
H1. Frankensteel. Nitrogen instead of carbon I guess. Very hard. Some say nothing performs better in a serrated blade than H1. And, of all stainless, H1 apparently will not rust...period.
There are so many good steels out there it is bewildering.
My favorites are 1095, Sandvik 12c27, VG-10, and so far CPM S30V.
1095 - Heat treated right (ESEE does it better than anybody, Bos too) does everything very very well except resist rust...which it doesn't do at all. Force a patina and put it away dry and you'll have no problems.
VG-10 - Good stainless (it will rust under very bad conditions) which takes a very sharp edge and is easy to maintain.
Sandvik 12c27 - Ditto.
AUS-8. Underrated stainless. Takes a very sharp edge.
154CM. Good Stainless.
420HC. The way Buck does it...a very good stainless (Bos heat treat). Other makers I'd be a little leary of.
CPM S30V - A very good stainless with takes a good edge and really holds it but you will need diamonds to do any serious resharpening. This is a "super steel".
CPM 3V - Just a crazy tough steel...crazy tough!!! Not stainless. Pretty much a custom only option and you seldom see it with any sort of fancy grind because it is so hard to work with...but once sharp you can practically cut forever with it. Woe betide you when it comes time to resharpen.
H1. Frankensteel. Nitrogen instead of carbon I guess. Very hard. Some say nothing performs better in a serrated blade than H1. And, of all stainless, H1 apparently will not rust...period.
There are so many good steels out there it is bewildering.
My favorites are 1095, Sandvik 12c27, VG-10, and so far CPM S30V.
451 Detonics
Member
In a factory knife I am still fond of Case's CV. In a custom there are so many great steels out there it is har to decide, I have bought all of the Spyderco Mule Team knives and honestly cannot tell that much difference between any of them.
Carl Levitian
member
I'll take the 1095 like Schrade used in the Old Timer series of knives.Or the CV that Case uses in the sodbusters. Or the carbon that Opinel uses in thier knives.
I like plain carbon steel.
I like plain carbon steel.
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