Which stock for open F-class?

[Lucky]

I'm in a course to build a rifle, and have decided I'd like it to be capable of competing in F-class matches, 300, 600, and maybe longer ranges. I've got a Mauser action, but not sure what stock to get and what barrel profile to do.

I'm pretty sure I'd like a stock from these people, as their prices are in my range, but they have so many to choose from I'm a bit overwhelmed. http://www.rifle-stocks.com/

The various cross-sections for a forearm, can someone help explain their utilities? Why are some wide, some flat, etc?










And the forearm shapes, I don't know which style to choose for that either.






And finally, is there any real purpose to vents, and do they affect glass-bedding or anything?




Thanks;
Scott

 

[Zullo74]

Scott,

F-class is shot in two divisions. F-open and F-TR. The difference being the type of front rest and the total weight of the rifle.

If you intend to build a dedicated F-O rifle my choice of stock would be a long range bench rest model with a parallel toe and a wide flat forearm to ride straight in the bags. This is the type you should be looking for.........

​

If you intend to shoot in the F-TR division, a more tactical style can be used. In this case the forearm width and shape is not too important because the rifle will have a bipod attached to the forearm. Something like this might be your choice......

​

The vents help the barrel cool. F-class and all NRA highpower shooting is done at 1 shot per minute rate of fire. A barrel can get pretty hot, so anything to help cooling is welcomed.

Here is a link to the NRA F-class rules that will be in effect as of 1/1/07......
Click Here

HTH

 

[USSR]

Lucky,

Good post by Zullo regarding the types of stocks to use, depending upon which division you decide to shoot in F Class. In regards to barrel contour, heavier is better (up to a point). From personal experience, I would suggest either a 26" or 28" barrel with atleast a muzzle diameter of .875". Be sure to have your rifle bedded, and with a heavy contour barrel such as I spoke about, make sure the smith who does the bedding beds about the first 1 1/2" of the barrel to relieve some of the strain of the heavy barrel on the receiver.

Don

 

[Lucky]

Thanks guys. I was thinking of getting a cheaper stock in a fancy laminate material, but with your input I'm pretty sure I'll get a more expensive model, in plain wood.

How does the parallel toe help? And how do you decide how wide you want your forearm to be?

Why does the 'tactical' style forearm have that slope to it?

Lastly, is there any compromise a person could make to build a rifle they could enter in both classes? <18 pounds with a removable bi-pod?


USSR about the barrel, that's complicated. I want to get the most hands-on experience shaping a barrel-blank, but still have a heavy-enough barrel afterwards.

By the way, you think 1:10 twist rate will be sufficient for everything? I noticed some 190gr bullets with a really high B/C.

 

[USSR]

USSR about the barrel, that's complicated. I want to get the most hands-on experience shaping a barrel-blank, but still have a heavy-enough barrel afterwards.

By the way, you think 1:10 twist rate will be sufficient for everything? I noticed some 190gr bullets with a really high B/C.

Decide which barrel company you want to go with and look at the contours they offer. Different companies have different names for basically the same contour; example, one company calls it a #7 contour, while another calls it a heavy varmint contour. I have a 26" #10 MTU contour Krieger that is .930" at the muzzle, as well as a 28" AMU contour Obermeyer that I believe is .900" at the muzzle. You don't say what cartridge you plan on using, so it's kind of hard to give you bullet/twist advice.

Don

 

[Zullo74]

How does the parallel toe help? And how do you decide how wide you want your forearm to be?

Why does the 'tactical' style forearm have that slope to it?

Lucky,

The parallel toe keeps the rifle riding the bags straight back during recoil, instead of muzzle climbing as a conventional toe does.

The tactical forearm is sloped because they are usually held in the hands (think sniper).

The forearm width should be the maximum the rules allow. I gave you a link for the rules (please read them). Right now the max forearm width is 3 inches.

A compromise stock would be a palma stock. That is what I am currently using as I still shoot conventionally with a sling and irons sometimes.

 

[Lucky]

Thanks again guys. I read the rules, but wasn't sure why the width was needed. I guess it's for mass and stability?

And, as you've figured out, I'm a rank noobie. What does it mean when the toes rides the bags back? I see the bag on the rest in the picture, but how would changing the shape of the bottom of the stock affect muzzle rise? .


I should have mentioned the calibre will be .308win.

But I'm happy to hear profiles are confusing, I though it was just me.

http://www.shilen.com/contours.html
http://www.benchrest.com/douglas/contours.html
http://www.border-barrels.com/bbldims.htm



P.S.
Very nice rifle!

 

[USSR]

I should have mentioned the calibre will be .308win.

Lucky,

If you are determined to run 190's in your .308, then the 1-10" twist is a good one. Most guys are probably running the 175SMK, and the 155gr Lapua Scenar has a following as well, and a slightly slower twist would be a better bet for them. BTW, if you want to shoot in the Open Division of F Class, there are MUCH better choices than the .308 Win.

Don

 

[Zullo74]

What does it mean when the toes rides the bags back? I see the bag on the rest in the picture, but how would changing the shape of the bottom of the stock affect muzzle rise? .

Lucky,

If the toe is not parallel to the forearm (like mine in the photo) the muzzle rises in recoil due to the angle of the toe as the rifle moves backwards in recoil. Most of us use fairly long barrels, so the time the bullet is traveling down the barrel as the rifle recoils can effect the POI (point of impact). It is more desirable to have the gun move straight back on the bags. I hope this is clearer now.

 

[Lucky]

USSR I've got an M98 action to work with, though, and .308 is pretty versatile. I plan on building more and better rifles in the future, to be sure, so I'd use more aggressive calibers later, most definitely.

Zullo, I do understand now. I'm just not good at visualizing, I need to touch things

 

[USSR]

Lucky,

Chamber your M98 in 6.5x55 and you'll run circles around any .308 at 1k. I'm presently driving very high BC 142SMK's at 2925fps.

Don

 

[Jim Watson]

Chamber that '98 in 6.5x55 and he will be in F-Open vs a 6.5-.284 Barnard-Broughton-McMillan on rests that cost more than his rifle.

A low budget entry level rifle should probably be a .308 on a bipod for F-T/R.
If for some reason you want to shoot in both divisions (Why? The scores are all posted and you can see how you do compared to the belly benchrest guys anyhow.) just set up a F-T/R and provide for a quick change from bipod to a front benchrest tripod. I have my .308 Savage ballasted up to nearly 16 lbs and it is plenty stable and mild in recoil. It will gain about a pound when my 28" Pac-Nor comes in. For some reason I did not get one of those half minute factory Savages (Neither did my Master class partner.) and it needs help to be competitive on the new small targets.

 

[Lucky]

Thanks USSR, it's tempting suggestion. I haven't confirmed the barrel blank order yet, so I'll look into that. Cartridge cost could be an issue, I'd like to be able to fire cheap surplus if possible too.

Jim, I just want to get my feet wet and keep my options open. I'm probably going to need a year of practice before actually competing anyway, so by then I might want another different rifle

 

[Jim Watson]

need a year of practice before actually competing anyway

Wrong, wrong, wrong.
Never mind the technical stuff on rifles we started out on. You can use whatever rifle you like and can afford so long as it fits the rules. My first F-Class matches were with a Winchester M70 that is older than I am, and that is saying a lot. I was just going along with an experienced shooter who wanted somebody to travel with. My previous shooting was mostly with pistol and shotgun. My F-class practice amounted to getting a basic zero and velocity with my loads so I could compute LR sight settings and get on target with a reasonable amount of effort. I got on target at 600 and then 1000 yards without a lot of fuss and had a great time. Still do, even as a casual occasional recreational F-class shooter with some newer guns.

There is no substitute for going to a match, shooting on real targets, pulling targets, keeping score, and listening to the experienced shooters. Learn WHAT to practice, then practice between matches.

Make reasonable preparation. You must know where your rifle shoots at the longest range you can manage, and what your load is doing for accuracy and velocity. Then you can compute the "comeups" for the match distances. After that, the old hands will coach you on target if you do not hit paper the first try. Shooters are very helpful to the new guy who listens, pays attention, and minds.

 

[Zullo74]

Lucky,

I definitely concur with all the points Jim Watson made. Get yourself to a match and shoot whatever you have, that's the best practice! You will quickly learn what works for you and what is "bells and whistles". A .308 Win varmint type rifle will suit you well for now in either F-O or F-TR class. Just go do it!

 

[USSR]

Chamber that '98 in 6.5x55 and he will be in F-Open vs a 6.5-.284 Barnard-Broughton-McMillan on rests that cost more than his rifle.

Jim,

Nothing wrong with that. I choose to compete in Open Class, even though I have another rifle suitable for TR Class. There will always will be somebody with deeper pockets than you no matter what class you shoot in, and I can only speak for myself, but I am competing against myself and no one else. And, it's alot easier to shoot good scores with a cartridge that shoots at 25MOA rather than 35MOA at 1k. Just MHO.

Don

 

[Jim Watson]

That is where we differ. I am definitely competing against those other guys. I shoot F-T/R because at the level of time and money I am willing to put into it, I do proportionately better than I would with a low roller rifle in an odd caliber that would put me in F-Open.

If I wanted to "compete against myself" I could save a lot of travel time and money and just tabulate scores at the range across town.

 

[Lucky]

If I had a .308 I would... Got an SKS, a Winchester '94, and ar AR-15 modelled on the A1 version (12:1 twist).

But for a low annual fee I can join a rifle club with a 900m range, less than an hour away. The teacher of the gunsmith class I'll build my rifle in is already a member.

 

[USSR]

Nice looking country, Lucky.

Don

 

[Jim Watson]

What facilities are there at the targets? Pits and elevating target carriers, I hope. You aren't going to be spotting many bullet holes at 900 metres, unless you can get a deal on the spare Hubble.

 

[Lucky]

Not sure what they've got, I just peeked in one day, and wanted to join ever since.