Whitetail deer

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SouthernHunter, it's not what is the best cartridge for hunting the deer. It's what is the best cartridge for "you" that you need to consider. Like has been said repeatedly, you can kill a Whitetail with anything from .243 to .500 Nitro (although not recomended). I have found that when I ask people," What is the best caliber for hunting deer." the list of calibers is almost as long as the list of reasons why every caliber other than the one they use is inferior. The .243 is too light...The 30-30 doesn't carry energy far enough...The .300 Win Mag is overkill. Just pick a sensible sized and easily purchased caliber and once you've made your first kill you will have a connection to it. For me, it's the .270. Not because it shoots the flattest or has the best ballistics. It's my favorite because that was the caliber of my Grandfather's rifle that I used to take my first deer with and it will always be special to me.

Before you choose think about recoil as well. Not how much can I tolerate, but how much will I enjoy to shoot. You don't have to go with the largest cartridge you can handle to be effective. Also, you need to think about cost and availability. I may over simplify it a little but I feel like if I can't buy it a Ma's Country Store up the road from the lease, it might not be the best caliber to carry. I also don't enjoy shooting my rifle as much when i have to save up for 2 weeks to buy a couple boxes of ammo.

Why are you into the idea of semi-auto or pump action rifles? I have hunted for quite a while and never ran into a situation where a bolt action wasn't fast enough. It's a solid platform and really quite fast to make a follow up shot with.
 
Bigreno said:
SouthernHunter, it's not what is the best cartridge for hunting the deer. It's what is the best cartridge for "you" that you need to consider. Like has been said repeatedly, you can kill a Whitetail with anything from .243 to .500 Nitro (although not recomended). I have found that when I ask people," What is the best caliber for hunting deer." the list of calibers is almost as long as the list of reasons why every caliber other than the one they use is inferior. The .243 is too light...The 30-30 doesn't carry energy far enough...The .300 Win Mag is overkill. Just pick a sensible sized and easily purchased caliber and once you've made your first kill you will have a connection to it. For me, it's the .270. Not because it shoots the flattest or has the best ballistics. It's my favorite because that was the caliber of my Grandfather's rifle that I used to take my first deer with and it will always be special to me.

Before you choose think about recoil as well. Not how much can I tolerate, but how much will I enjoy to shoot. You don't have to go with the largest cartridge you can handle to be effective. Also, you need to think about cost and availability. I may over simplify it a little but I feel like if I can't buy it a Ma's Country Store up the road from the lease, it might not be the best caliber to carry. I also don't enjoy shooting my rifle as much when i have to save up for 2 weeks to buy a couple boxes of ammo.

Why are you into the idea of semi-auto or pump action rifles? I have hunted for quite a while and never ran into a situation where a bolt action wasn't fast enough. It's a solid platform and really quite fast to make a follow up shot with.


I am into the idea of a semi-auto or pump action rifle, because I have a .22 bolt action and I am not fast with a bolt action.
 
I have a .30-06 in the Rem 7600 and it works fine. Groups from the bench are all under 2 inches at 100 yds. The rifle is probably capable of a little better but I'm not:( . If you like pumps, this one will work well for you. Only slight hassle is putting a sling on it. You have to get a barrel clamp designed for this rifle for the forward sling attachment point. I think B-square sells them.
 
Southern Hunter,
It is NOT how FAST you are with a gun BUT how ACCURATE you are with it. IMO you are WAY too concerned with speed of follow-up shots. Try hunting with a single shot rifle and you might learn to place the first shot so that a second is not needed.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 
If the deer is standing still I can kill it with one shot. Where I hunt you can shoot 1 buck and 1 doe on doe days, so if I see a group of deer I want to try and shoot one 1 buck and 1 doe. Also if a deer is running I will shoot it and most likely I wont' get a kill shot one a running deer. So the first shoot would slow it down and the second shot would kill it.
 
Also if a deer is running I will shoot it and most likely I wont' get a kill shot one a running deer. So the first shoot would slow it down and the second shot would kill it.

Ummm, I know 16 year old wants to shoot deer, and we were all 16 once too, but this gets into ethical hunting issues. One shot, one kill. Shoot it to slow it down and you're not making a quick clean kill. Having a deer thrashing around squalling ain't fun and it'll haunt you.
 
Southern Hunter,
One last comment and I will get off my soapbox but just dislike seeing a new hunter getting started on the wrong foot. You have a whole lifetime of hunting ahead. Don't try to kill ALL the deer the first year. Leave some to breed next year's crop. As you hunt more the bloodthirst level will drop and you will come to see the sport as HUNTING instead of KILLING. Many if not most of us here have reached that level and enjoy just going out and seeing the deer. I wish you many pleasurable years of hunting!!!

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 
If you place the bullet right, you can make kill shots with .30-30 150grSP out to 200yds. However... zero your scope/rifle for 100yds. If you must shoot farther, know the holdover to 200yds and that holdover should theoretically be with the horizontal crosshair on the deer's topline so the bullet will drop into the upper lungs/spinal part of the kill zone. Tell you what... if you can get life-size deer targets (2D paper), set those up at 50yds, 100yds, 150yds, and 200yds. Have somebody spot for you, as in using a spotting scope and showing you where your shots landed. Like I said, zero for 100yds on a non-deer target, then shoot for groups in the deer kill zone target at 100yds. Then see what sight pictures you need to use at those different distances to hit the same area. I hope this helps.
 
mustanger98 said:
If you place the bullet right, you can make kill shots with .30-30 150grSP out to 200yds. However... zero your scope/rifle for 100yds. If you must shoot farther, know the holdover to 200yds and that holdover should theoretically be with the horizontal crosshair on the deer's topline so the bullet will drop into the upper lungs/spinal part of the kill zone. Tell you what... if you can get life-size deer targets (2D paper), set those up at 50yds, 100yds, 150yds, and 200yds. Have somebody spot for you, as in using a spotting scope and showing you where your shots landed. Like I said, zero for 100yds on a non-deer target, then shoot for groups in the deer kill zone target at 100yds. Then see what sight pictures you need to use at those different distances to hit the same area. I hope this helps.

Yes, this will help me. The 30-30 is my uncles gun, and he lets me use it when I go hunting with him. He told me just to but the bullets and I can use the gun. I will probably wait till next year to buy a 30-06, or whatever cal rifle I buy, and just use his 30-30 this year.
 
I will probably wait till next year to buy a 30-06, or whatever cal rifle I buy, and just use his 30-30 this year.

That would give you a few months to get used to the new one instead of being in a hurry right now.

I forgot to mention, when I was talking about shooting 50yds, 100yds, etc, that the trajectory is pretty flat to 100yds, only slightly lower at 150, but it's low enough at 200yds that you better see where it's going and not guess at it in the field. I don't mean to sound like I'm really pounding this, but if the shot is that far, it's just that important.
 
mustanger98 said:
That would give you a few months to get used to the new one instead of being in a hurry right now.

I forgot to mention, when I was talking about shooting 50yds, 100yds, etc, that the trajectory is pretty flat to 100yds, only slightly lower at 150, but it's low enough at 200yds that you better see where it's going and not guess at it in the field. I don't mean to sound like I'm really pounding this, but if the shot is that far, it's just that important.

Where my uncle put me last year when I went hunting, is probably one of the clearest spots in the area of woods he hunts. You can only see about 100yds. MAX, so if I hunt the same spot this year I won't need to make a 200yd. shot. But later in my life I will be makeing longer shots, so I will still do what you said about shooting a deer target at different yds.
 
Another of my opinions... Again!

First off, you seem settled on the 30-06. Good cartridge. Don't buy anything else, because you'll go back to "I should have got the 06".

Second, heed the advice given to you about low scope magnification. Anything over 4X is going to be a hindrance to you at the ranges you mention.

If you're stuck on see through mounts, fine, but low magnification and shooting with both eyes works well, too.

Now to rifle action type. Typically, the most accurate guns are bolt actions. There are exceptions, but for limited income (like mine), we try to get the most bang for the buck. Did I just make a pun? Anyway, all the "big names" in rifles make a good 30-06, so try a few out at gunstores and see what fits you best. Follow up speed with a bolt is quick once you learn your rifle, but look at a lot of brands and models to see what "feels" right. Don't let the cool factor sway you. You're interested in a good fitting, accurate rifle for deer. Keep those things in mind.

Good hunting!
 
1911 guy said:
First off, you seem settled on the 30-06. Good cartridge. Don't buy anything else, because you'll go back to "I should have got the 06".

Second, heed the advice given to you about low scope magnification. Anything over 4X is going to be a hindrance to you at the ranges you mention.

If you're stuck on see through mounts, fine, but low magnification and shooting with both eyes works well, too.

Now to rifle action type. Typically, the most accurate guns are bolt actions. There are exceptions, but for limited income (like mine), we try to get the most bang for the buck. Did I just make a pun? Anyway, all the "big names" in rifles make a good 30-06, so try a few out at gunstores and see what fits you best. Follow up speed with a bolt is quick once you learn your rifle, but look at a lot of brands and models to see what "feels" right. Don't let the cool factor sway you. You're interested in a good fitting, accurate rifle for deer. Keep those things in mind.

Good hunting!

With my 3x9 scope I have on my .22 bolt action rifle I kept it between 3x and 5x most of the time. Where I hunt with my .22 rifle, it is clearer areas. With my .22 bolt, it is not long enough or too long between the end of the butt and the bolt, because I have to move the butt to do the bolt.
 
Bolt handles and rifle fit

With my .22 bolt, it is not long enough or too long between the end of the butt and the bolt, because I have to move the butt to do the bolt.
Yesterday 12:52 AM

This problem is indeed the fit of the rifle as you assume. Two ways to beat the problem. Have a smith cut it down to fit you or trade it for a .22 that fits. With a new centerfire, do the smith thing or buy a rifle that fits. The third option is to see if it really is a bad fit or just needing to refine your shooting position.
 
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1911 guy said:
With my .22 bolt, it is not long enough or too long between the end of the butt and the bolt, because I have to move the butt to do the bolt.
Yesterday 12:52 AM

This problem is indeed the fit of the rifle as you assume. Two ways to beat the problem. Have a smith cut it down to fit you or trade it for a .22 that fits. With a new centerfire, do the smith thing or buy a rifle that fits. The third option is to see if it really is a bad fit or just needing to refine your shooting position.

I think it is too short, or I need to refine my shooting position. I don't think it's too long, because I am 5'11''. It's a .22LR Savage MarkII rimfire.
 
.270 Win Browning A-bolt

.270 Win Browning A-bolt is the rifle for you ,,, Get the staninless ( I wouldn't) because it shoots better in close rage.
 
Slip on recoil pads

Get yourself one of those slip on recoil pads. I know it's only a .22, but it will lengthen the rifle stock and help you see what's going on before you shell out big cash for a centerfire. Figure out what you need with the .22 you've already got. See if that puts your hands in a better place to work the bolt or if it's all your positioning.
 
killzone said:
.270 Win Browning A-bolt is the rifle for you ,,, Get the staninless ( I wouldn't) because it shoots better in close rage.

I also hunt places where I can make a long shot, so I want a rifle that can make short shots, and long shots. Also for 20 30-06 bullets here is only $12, and 30-06 bullets are everwhere here.
 
Southern Hunter^

Your stock may be a bit short for you, but you should still not have to move the butt away from your shoulder to work the action. If your finger can reach the trigger you should be ok. Practice using your support hand to anchor the rifle into your shoulder and slide you trigger hand up to release the bolt. Also, easier if you use a sling to help anchor your rifle. I would suggest learning about different ways to use your rifle sling as a brace.
 
Bigreno said:
Southern Hunter^

Your stock may be a bit short for you, but you should still not have to move the butt away from your shoulder to work the action. If your finger can reach the trigger you should be ok. Practice using your support hand to anchor the rifle into your shoulder and slide you trigger hand up to release the bolt. Also, easier if you use a sling to help anchor your rifle. I would suggest learning about different ways to use your rifle sling as a brace.

I just put a sling on my .22 2 weeks ago, and never used the gun yet. I also have to sight my .22 in again, because the last time I shot it the scope was a few in. off.
 
Think twice about the semi-auto...

One good shot is better than two bad ones. Here in Western NY we've been limited to shoutguns for years and most guys (that I know) use semi autos. Problem is that the ones who want the quick second shot are thinking more about the second shot than the first. The first usually goes in the general direction of the deer and the second (and usually 3-5) goes up in the air somewhere.

When my nephew started hunting I allowed him to have 3 rounds in a pump action Winchester 1300 and told him that was all the ammo he got for the entire weekend. His first deer was a 1 shot stop at about 80 yards - no need for a second shot.

I'd suggest a TC Encore or NEF single shot with a good scope, good ammo and lots of practice.
 
As a matter of fact, big fan of .30-30 that I am, I'm fixin' to get a .30-30 barrel for my H&R HandiRifle. I hear plenty good said about it with factory ammo. Layne Simpson wrote the article that's been discussed in the thread titled ".30-30 for deer this year". He said if you handload spitzers, you turn a 200yd deer rifle into a 300yd deer rifle. Notice though, that nobody's talking about hotrodding the .30-30 cartridge, but just changing the choice of bullet.

Picture it... a single shot .30-30 scoped and sighted in for a 300yd point blank...
 
.308

I like the .308 , you can shoot anything from Varmint to Big game in North America with this round. I use a 125 grain Sierra Pro Hunter bullet,custom hand loaded that I shoot in my T/C Encore Hand Gun with a 15" barrel. You will gain even more speed with the longer Barrels on a rifle. You can shoot anything from a 110 grain Hollow points for small game, up to and over 150 grain Partitioner bullets that I would recommend for Thin shin / Big game animals such as a Whitetail Deer. You could even use a much heavier round for animals as large as Moose. This gun will shoot anything from 110 grain bullets to 240 grain bullets , depending on the barrel twist of the gun you are buying. On average a 1 in 10" or a 1 in 12" twist rate will and should be all you'll need; and that will cover you from the lightest up to the larger 180 - 210 grain Bullet. I believe this is a perfect Cal. of choice. If you want to shoot the much longer and heaver Bullets a faster twist is needed. But I don't think you need to know all of that now. The 150 grain Bullet will drop a Large Deer in its tracks with a good Lung shot/ front shoulder Shot/ heart shot / neck shot / or even a ass shot. Now as far as a scope . Get your self a good scope , if you don't expect to shoot any further than 100 yards a 3 by 9 will be fine. If you are more apt to hunt { IN the woods} and close up shots may be more of a norm. Then go with a 2 by 7 of something low powered like that. Heck Nikon even makes a 2.5 by 10 by 50mm with BDC. The objective is number that lets in the light. so the last number will be how much light you let in the scope . So a 3 by 9 by {40 MM} is o.k and a 3 by 9 by {50mm}, is even better. It will let you have the last few minutes of light to hunt and you will still be able to see threw your scope. If you want a , up to 200 yard scope . Go with something like a Nikon Monarch 4 by 16 by 50mm. There are a lot of good scopes out there , so chose wisely. A good scope is as important as a a good gun. You buy junk you get junk. I recommend Nikon's with the BDC reticle. But a good Scope comes with a good price. Buy what you can afford, Don't buy a good gun and put a crappy scope on it. If you have a budget split the price of the gun in half and spend that much on a scope. example= $800 gun get a $400 scope. It will show in your group shots and dependability on your trophy. Don't chance it. Good luck. I hope this helps. It Is only my opinion . But it's my rule of thumb for the average Hunter.
 
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