Who's making their own wood grips?

[bsparker]

As to the grip screw, if you desire to install it, drill and counter bore while the panels are still "flat" and before any tapering. This to be sure the hole is at 90* to the flat surface. The pair I made I measured the depth of the counterbore and drilled while both surfaces were still parallel to each other.

For a Smith& Wesson:

View attachment 921826

These grips were to change a round butt to a square butt configuration.

Bob Wright

that’s what I thought. Great looking gun and grips. I’m not much of a fan of round butt grips so can understand the change.

 

[StrawHat]

Go back and review Bob Wright’s post #10.

My method is similar. I start with one slab and fit it to the grip frame and main frame junction. Than I do fit the opposite slab to the gf/mf junction. Now for the spacer (Bob and 1 actually make three piece one piece grips!). Take a piece of scrap wood and lay it under the grip frame. Trace a line to indicate the inside of the grip strap. Cock the hammer. Trace the side of the main spring closest to the grip frame. Carefully cut this piece of wood out of your scrap.


Here is were i differ from Bob. I glue the spacer to one slab. Install the slab in the correct position and glue it. Let the glue cure over night. Now, reinstall the slab and spacer. Hold it in position and cock the hammer. If it will not cock, you need to see where the mainspring is touching and remove wood until you can cock the revolver. Once that is done, the spacer need to be thinned until it is the same thickness as the gripframe and triggerguard. I use a pull saw that I have unset the teeth on one side. (Saw teeth are splayed out one from another. I “flatten” one side so it will cut flush. ) Cut the spacer to the correct thickness and glue the second slab in place. Once the glue has cured, start shaping to fit your hand or to traditional appearance.

Good luck! If you have auestiohs, ask us.

Kevin

 

[bsparker]

So I fashioned a block spacer but then realized that this may not work with the pin on the front side of the bottom frame. For “single” piece I assume that pin is either removed or was never there. Is that correct?

 

[StrawHat]

Correct, if there is a pin through the frame, it needs to be removed in order to properly fit one piece grips.


Your spacer looks tight to the mainspring. Is there enough room to cock the hammer?

Kevin

 

[bsparker]

Correct, if there is a pin through the frame, it needs to be removed in order to properly fit one piece grips.


Your spacer looks tight to the mainspring. Is there enough room to cock the hammer?

Kevin

thanks I’ll try pressing it out. When I cock it, the main spring actually drops. It appears to be the reverse of what you have described. I’ve worked the action several times and there is adequate clearance.

Having an extra set of eyes and a helpful voice is invaluable, thanks.

 

[doubleh]

As to the grip screw, if you desire to install it, drill and counter bore while the panels are still "flat" and before any tapering. This to be sure the hole is at 90* to the flat surface. The pair I made I measured the depth of the counterbore and drilled while both surfaces were still parallel to each other.

For a Smith& Wesson:

View attachment 921826

These grips were to change a round butt to a square butt configuration.

Bob Wright

I have been making my own grips for years and agree that your method is correct.

That is a nice looking set of grips. What's the wood?

 

[BobWright]

I have been making my own grips for years and agree that your method is correct.

That is a nice looking set of grips. What's the wood?

It is walnut. The finished pair:




Bob Wright

 

[doubleh]

Thanks. The very light color in your first picture is the reason for my question.

 

[bsparker]

@StrawHat, @BobWright so I’ve got it pretty much sanded out. What would you use to finish it off in terms of coating it, oil or something else? I have some boiled linseed oil left over from restoring an Enfield, would something like that work well?

 

[jamesjames]

Birch wood Casey Tru Oil, thin coats, hand rubbed. Available with gun bluing Supplies at your LGS or Walmart.

Looks like you are ready for the next project in Mammoth Ivory.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

What would you use to finish it off in terms of coating it, oil or something else?

If you can't decide what to use, try the product on a piece of scrap wood.
(Don't ask me how I know.)

 

[StrawHat]

I avoid linseed oil. It never dries. My choice is Tru-Oil, Tung Oil or Danish Oil. Others choose a poly of some sort.


Kevin

 

[BobWright]

Linseed oil does indeed dry. Slow, but it dries. We used linseed oil on our rifle stocks when I was in the Army. We often got a rib bone from the mess hall and "boned" down the stocks between coats. We were satisfied when the lieutenant tried to chip the finish with his thumb nail, as varnish was not to be used on rifle stocks.

(And, for those smarties, yes, we had smokeless powder rifles in my day.)

Bob Wright

 

[BobWright]

A method I've used in the past that worked well: Apply one coat of a mix of equal parts gum turpentine, boiled linseed oil, and polyurethane varnish. Dry for a couple of day, then apply coats of equal parts linseed oil and polyurethane varnish. Rub smooth between coats. When the sheen is as desired, allow to dry for a week or so.

Bob Wright

 

[bsparker]

If you can't decide what to use, try the product on a piece of scrap wood.
(Don't ask me how I know.)

thanks. Appreciate the wisdom in that.

Since I’ve never done this I did make a scrap grip piece to test everything on (including the cuts and sanding). I’m likely going to buy tru-oil and test also but here’s a pic with two coats of BLO.

*Note, the grip on the left was not finished when photo was taken.

 

[bsparker]

A method I've used in the past that worked well: Apply one coat of a mix of equal parts gum turpentine, boiled linseed oil, and polyurethane varnish. Dry for a couple of day, then apply coats of equal parts linseed oil and polyurethane varnish. Rub smooth between coats. When the sheen is as desired, allow to dry for a week or so.

Bob Wright

Thanks, this is very helpful. I actually like some of the darkening that comes with BLO. I'm not sure I'd want it to go much darker though. I heading into a local Woodcraft store to see what they have and recommend for maple. But right now planning to hit your method to finish it off.

 

[Gumby0961]

A new idea I thought up, wasnt sure how good it would look. What do ya think?

 

[BWS]

Could be a long post. It's about tooling and I can get quite long winded,you've been warned.

Yes to the OP,have made a bunch of grips for handguns. There's a certain piece of equipment that will really make sanding intricate and delicate curves not only easier but downright fun.

In present day interweeb wood working circles,bandsaw use is usually centered around the ubiquitous 14" Delta and it's derivatives. These are very nice,have had several,yadayada. BIG bandsaws are nicer for resaw work and other straighline chores,the reasons are many. Every once in a while the subject of older,and honestly,cheaper made 10" bandsaws enter the discussion. They are usually not very well made,usually.... but there are some very nice ones. In fact there's a small Delta that is the bees knees and the prices they command reflect this,so let's drop that one from the table.

These cheaper 10's are,to put it politely,looked down on by "real" internet WW'ers. Now we're getting somewhere..... these things can be had for literally beer money. My cast iron miniature Rockwell was 20$ or something. Here's the deal. We aren't using them as band-SAWS.... they get converted to,band-SANDERS. The sanding belts are made at home using easy peasy skived joints and slow setting epoxy. They will lose every pcs of grit before the joint fails. You buy cloth backed belts in wider,longer sizes and RIP them to 3/8" and 1/2" wide strips. And can go smaller.

One major complaint about the cheapy 10's is;

Their blade guides,in a word,suck. They are so bad that I don't know how they even work? But with the sanding belts,guess what?..... that's right,chuck'm into file 13. Yup,toss'm you don't need them. You pretty much are done.... no guides,no platen,heck toss the little cheesy table hole filler piece,don't need it either. We used to make right many trad bows,still do a few here and there but look at a recurve bow handle and compare those with a set of handgun stocks...... I'm telling you,a 10" bandsander is about unequaled for ease of operation. No,you aren't going to be grinding knife blades with them BUT,linishing leather and wood handles on knives? Oh HECK yeah.

So sorta keep it under your hat if you've read this novel,and start looking for craigslist freeby 10" BS's. You won't regret it.

Edit to add pic. The old Case if for scale but,it reminded me that these little jobbers are great for leather,edge work. This Rockwell is extra special,besides the 20$,it's a miniature of that co's 20" bandsaw,which is way nicer than any 14" saw BTW.

 

[BWS]

Went looking for the bigger brother Rockwell pic to show family resemblance. BTW,there's a beautiful single phase,needs TLC version of this on the bay right now in Pa. for 700$,comes with blades.

 

[bsparker]

A new idea I thought up, wasnt sure how good it would look. What do ya think? View attachment 922590 View attachment 922591View attachment 922592

that’s some detail work pieces those together. More patience than I have. Good work.

 

[bsparker]

Could be a long post. It's about tooling and I can get quite long winded,you've been warned.

Yes to the OP,have made a bunch of grips for handguns. There's a certain piece of equipment that will really make sanding intricate and delicate curves not only easier but downright fun.

In present day interweeb wood working circles,bandsaw use is usually centered around the ubiquitous 14" Delta and it's derivatives. These are very nice,have had several,yadayada. BIG bandsaws are nicer for resaw work and other straighline chores,the reasons are many. Every once in a while the subject of older,and honestly,cheaper made 10" bandsaws enter the discussion. They are usually not very well made,usually.... but there are some very nice ones. In fact there's a small Delta that is the bees knees and the prices they command reflect this,so let's drop that one from the table.

These cheaper 10's are,to put it politely,looked down on by "real" internet WW'ers. Now we're getting somewhere..... these things can be had for literally beer money. My cast iron miniature Rockwell was 20$ or something. Here's the deal. We aren't using them as band-SAWS.... they get converted to,band-SANDERS. The sanding belts are made at home using easy peasy skived joints and slow setting epoxy. They will lose every pcs of grit before the joint fails. You buy cloth backed belts in wider,longer sizes and RIP them to 3/8" and 1/2" wide strips. And can go smaller.

One major complaint about the cheapy 10's is;

Their blade guides,in a word,suck. They are so bad that I don't know how they even work? But with the sanding belts,guess what?..... that's right,chuck'm into file 13. Yup,toss'm you don't need them. You pretty much are done.... no guides,no platen,heck toss the little cheesy table hole filler piece,don't need it either. We used to make right many trad bows,still do a few here and there but look at a recurve bow handle and compare those with a set of handgun stocks...... I'm telling you,a 10" bandsander is about unequaled for ease of operation. No,you aren't going to be grinding knife blades with them BUT,linishing leather and wood handles on knives? Oh HECK yeah.

So sorta keep it under your hat if you've read this novel,and start looking for craigslist freeby 10" BS's. You won't regret it.

Edit to add pic. The old Case if for scale but,it reminded me that these little jobbers are great for leather,edge work. This Rockwell is extra special,besides the 20$,it's a miniature of that co's 20" bandsaw,which is way nicer than any 14" saw BTW.

View attachment 922916

this is an innovative idea to fill a need. Don’t have a wood shop or even a band saw at this point (space is limited and need is low for now). Would love to add some more wood working tools to the shed, this projects got me hooked. I’m making mine with a coping saw, mitre saw, table saw, belt sander, rasp, and sand paper. Used the Flat side of the belt sander after the rough cuts then the rounded edge as a make shift drum sander. I’m letting the final coat on the grips cure tonight. Will have final picture up soon. For now...a photo of the belt sander set up.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

For now...a photo of the belt sander set up.

Cable tie on the trigger to desired speed?

 

[bsparker]

Cable tie on the trigger to desired speed?

one speed with a locking trigger. Glad I shaped a test piece first, definitely learned how fast you can sand off wood or make flat what’s supposed to be rounded. Saved most of the shaping and finishing for the rasp.

 

[bsparker]

Finished product. I’m in for about $20 and the tools I had on hand. In the end went with a wood conditioner and Tru-oil. Loved working on this.

Thanks guys, you’ve been a huge help along the way. @BobWright, @1976B.L.Johns., @StrawHat, @jamesjames

 

[bikerdoc]

@RetiredUSNChief .

Beware work on with Cocabolo! Wear a mask, the dust is a nasty lung irritant!