Why did no one bid my gun?

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Sure , the item # is 1017070257. thanks.
Here's what I'd do if I were selling that gun (I'd do all of these things, not just some of them). These suggestions are based upon having sold quite a few guns on GB, all of which brought at the very top range of what I'd seen the same/essentially the same guns sell for, and also having watched literally hundreds of auctions and paid attention to how the listings performed. I've also bought quite a few on GB -- I've bought a lot of bargains -- and have learned what sellers should NOT do with their listing, and how to spot a listing that isn't likely to attract bidders.

You did one of the most important things correct: Do NOT put a reserve on the listing -- that's an almost sure-fire way to avoid most would-be bidders. Beyond that, I suggest you do the following:

1. I'd cancel the current auction and start a new one.

2. Add 8 - 12 more good quality photos. That is, GOOD quality, no-excuses photos. Experiment with different lighting and different color background to see what your camera likes, but I've found that a dark-ish background works best for my phone camera (many phone cameras are excellent these days). Bidders want to feel like they know EXACTLY what they will find when they open the box upon receiving the gun. Even if the gun is brand new and people can easily look up hundreds of photos on the internet, post lots of photos of the exact gun that you are selling. Photograph all angles and sides of the gun. Open the cylinder and photograph both ends and all areas, and the muzzle, the hammer, the grip, and all controls. More photos are better than fewer photos.

Here's a decent photo of a gun, made with a cell phone -- don't just throw it down on your desk or tailgate and snap a photo with a haphazard background and other items in the photo. At the time I sold this one on GB it brought $200 more than other similar ones were selling for.
hAcNwIV.jpg


3. Write an honest description of the gun and don't claim that it's in better condition than the photos indicate.

4. Start the bidding at $.01. Many people don't have the guts to do this, but it attracts MANY more watchers and bidders than a higher starting price, and once people start thinking they might possibly win the auction, they often get caught up in it and bid higher than they otherwise would pay for the gun. If you go and search out all of the guns like yours that have brought a relatively high price, I'll bet you find that almost all of them started the bidding at a penny, a dollar, etc. And as stated earlier, do not put a reserve on it.

Further on the starting price... Another thing that often results in a lower selling price is starting the bidding at an "okay" price. For example, let's say you have a gun that has been selling for $500 -$540 in other auctions. You decide to start yours at $480 because you think that will attract buyers, and you hope that a bidding war will ensue. Unfortunately, it's not likely. A lot of potential bidders will see the listing but the $480 starting price isn't low enough to really get their attention because it's not enough of a bargain. If you start the bidding at $.01, those potential bidders are likely to put it on their watch list, check it once in a while, and gradually get more an more interested and "invested" in it over the course of the auction. These guys are the ones who are most likely to bid it up at the end of the auction after having watched it and daydreamed for several days about winning the auction. I've found myself on both sides of this situation -- as both a buyer and seller -- and as a buyer I've chased some $.01 start guns higher than I would have paid if I'd just stumbled upon them listed at the price that I eventually paid for the gun.

5. Adjust your shipping cost to where it's even with or slightly lower than most competitors (even if you have to absorb a little bit of the shipping cost yourself). The best way (in my state, anyway) to ship a handgun is to find an FFL that will ship it for you for a reasonable fee. FFLs can ship handguns in a USPS flat rate box, (about $18 or less) then if they charge you, say, $20 extra, you are a lot better off than shipping it yourself.

6. Run the listing for approximately 12-14 days, and end it on Sunday night at about 10:30 PM Eastern time.

As I said, I've sold several guns this way and they all brought at or above the very top end of the range that similar guns had been selling for.
 
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If the gun sold for $510, the buyer only pay $50 + tax + transfer, it is impossible to touching $ 700. please see that case, https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1015600513, the price is $504. the seller only ask shipping $25.00.
Ca has high taxes and DOJ fees. Tax 10%, so for the $529 invoice ($504 plus $25 shipping) that’s an additional $52.90 bucks in tax, $581. The state DOJ fee is around $35 bucks if I recall correctly, $616. Plus transfer FFL will often tack on fees from $50-$100 bucks because on line sales like GB are killing their businesses and they would rather you buy from them. (I have paid less on GB than their wholesale new-gun prices on many occasions.) So, the $504 sales price you see is $630-$680 to the buyer depending on who they have as an FFL. Now, when you add TWO trips to the gun store (one to fill out the initial paperwork, one 10 days later to pick up) it can be getting awfully close to $700.

Trust me, I have bought over 90 handguns, shotguns and rifles from gun broker sellers over the past 20-odd years. I am pretty darn familiar with the add on fees on the back end of any GB purchase that make “good deals” won on the auction page turn average, fast. That’s why I bid my max with what I expect the whole cost to be in mind. So, over the years I lost a lot more auctions than I won. But I’m ok with that. :)

Not every state or FFL has these taxes or paperwork add on fees, but many do. That’s why your gun didn’t sell.

I have seen you posting for quite a while asking for GB sales advice from members. I hope all works out and wish you good luck selling your Ruger. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
Look at your GunBroker competition. $15 shipping and no credit card fees is the gold standard. You're overpriced and a red flag for fraud. No one will seriously consider buying your gun. Armslist face to face is your best option.
I don't understand why you said " red flag for fraud"? yes I also do private sale on Maryland right now.
 
Ca has high taxes and DOJ fees. Tax 10%, so for the $529 invoice ($504 plus $25 shipping) that’s an additional $52.90 bucks in tax, $581. The state DOJ fee is around $35 bucks if I recall correctly, $616. Plus transfer FFL will often tack on fees from $50-$100 bucks because on line sales like GB are killing their businesses and they would rather you buy from them. (I have paid less on GB than their wholesale new-gun prices on many occasions.) So, the $504 sales price you see is $630-$680 to the buyer depending on who they have as an FFL. Now, when you add TWO trips to the gun store (one to fill out the initial paperwork, one 10 days later to pick up) it can be getting awfully close to $700.

Trust me, I have bought over 90 handguns, shotguns and rifles from gun broker sellers over the past 20-odd years. I am pretty darn familiar with the add on fees on the back end of any GB purchase that make “good deals” won on the auction page turn average, fast. That’s why I bid my max with what I expect the whole cost to be in mind. So, over the years I lost a lot more auctions than I won. But I’m ok with that. :)

Not every state or FFL has these taxes or paperwork add on fees, but many do. That’s why your gun didn’t sell.

I have seen you posting for quite a while asking for GB sales advice from members. I hope all works out and wish you good luck selling your Ruger. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
Riomouse911: thanks.
 
Here's what I'd do if I were selling that gun (I'd do all of these things, not just some of them). These suggestions are based upon having sold quite a few guns on GB, all of which brought at the very top range of what I'd seen the same/essentially the same guns sell for, and also having watched literally hundreds of auctions and paid attention to how the listings performed. I've also bought quite a few on GB -- I've bought a lota of bargains -- and have learned what sellers should NOT do with their listing, and how to spot a listing that isn't likely to attract bidders.

You did one of the most important things correct: Do NOT put a reserve on the listing -- that's an almost sure-fire way to avoid most would-be bidders. Beyond that, I suggest you do the following:
1. I'd cancel the current auction and start a new one.

2. Add 8 - 12 more good quality photos. That is, GOOD quality, no-excuses photos. Experiment with different lighting and different color background to see what you camera likes, but I've found that a dark-ish background works best for my phone camera (many phone cameras are excellent these days). Bidders want to feel like they know EXACTLY what they will find when they open the box. Even if the gun is brand new and people can easily look up hundreds of photos on the internet, post lots of photos of the exact gun that you are selling. Photograph all angles and sides of the gun. Open the cylinder and photograph both ends and all areas, and the muzzle, the hammer, the grip, and all controls. More photos are better than fewer photos.

Here's a decent photo of a gun, made with a cell phone -- don't just throw it down on your desk or tailgate and snap a photo with a haphazard background and other items in the photo. At the time I sold this one on GB it brought $200 more than other similar ones were selling for.
hAcNwIV.jpg


3. Write an honest description of the gun and don't claim that it's in better condition than the photos indicate.

4. Start the bidding at $.01. Many people don't have the guts to do this, but it attracts MANY more watchers and bidders than a higher starting price, and once people start thinking they might possibly win the auction, they often get caught up in it and bid higher than they otherwise would pay for the gun. If you go and search out all of the guns like yours that have brought a relatively high price, I'll bet you find that almost all of them started the bidding at a penny, a dollar, etc. (Further on the starting price... Another thing that often results in a lower selling price is starting the bidding at an "okay" price. For example, let's say you have a gun that has been selling for $500 -$540 in other auctions. You decide to start yours at $480 because you think that will attract buyers, and you hope that a little bidding war will ensue. Unfortunately, it's not likely. A lot of potential bidders will see the listing but the $480 starting price isn't low enough to really get their attention because it's not enough of a bargain. If you start the bidding at $.01, those potential bidders are likely to put it on their watch list, check, it once in a while, and gradually get more an more interested in it over the course of the auction. I've found myself on both sides of this situation -- as both a buyer and seller -- and as a buyer I've chased some $.01 start guns higher than I would have paid if I'd just stumbled upon them listed at the price that I eventually paid for the gun.)

5. Adjust your shipping cost to where it's even with or slightly lower than most competitors (even if you have to eat a little bit of the shipping costs). The best way (in my state, anyway) to ship a handgun is to find an FFL that will ship it for you for a reasonable fee. FFLs can ship handguns in a USPS flat rate box, (about $18 or less) then if they charge you, say, $20 extra, you are a lot better off than shipping it yourself.

Here's what I'd do if I were selling that gun (I'd do all of these things, not just some of them). These suggestions are based upon having sold quite a few guns on GB, all of which brought at the very top range of what I'd seen the same/essentially the same guns sell for, and also having watched literally hundreds of auctions and paid attention to how the listings performed. I've also bought quite a few on GB -- I've bought a lota of bargains -- and have learned what sellers should NOT do with their listing, and how to spot a listing that isn't likely to attract bidders.

You did one of the most important things correct: Do NOT put a reserve on the listing -- that's an almost sure-fire way to avoid most would-be bidders. Beyond that, I suggest you do the following:
1. I'd cancel the current auction and start a new one.

2. Add 8 - 12 more good quality photos. That is, GOOD quality, no-excuses photos. Experiment with different lighting and different color background to see what you camera likes, but I've found that a dark-ish background works best for my phone camera (many phone cameras are excellent these days). Bidders want to feel like they know EXACTLY what they will find when they open the box. Even if the gun is brand new and people can easily look up hundreds of photos on the internet, post lots of photos of the exact gun that you are selling. Photograph all angles and sides of the gun. Open the cylinder and photograph both ends and all areas, and the muzzle, the hammer, the grip, and all controls. More photos are better than fewer photos.

Here's a decent photo of a gun, made with a cell phone -- don't just throw it down on your desk or tailgate and snap a photo with a haphazard background and other items in the photo. At the time I sold this one on GB it brought $200 more than other similar ones were selling for.
hAcNwIV.jpg


3. Write an honest description of the gun and don't claim that it's in better condition than the photos indicate.

4. Start the bidding at $.01. Many people don't have the guts to do this, but it attracts MANY more watchers and bidders than a higher starting price, and once people start thinking they might possibly win the auction, they often get caught up in it and bid higher than they otherwise would pay for the gun. If you go and search out all of the guns like yours that have brought a relatively high price, I'll bet you find that almost all of them started the bidding at a penny, a dollar, etc. (Further on the starting price... Another thing that often results in a lower selling price is starting the bidding at an "okay" price. For example, let's say you have a gun that has been selling for $500 -$540 in other auctions. You decide to start yours at $480 because you think that will attract buyers, and you hope that a little bidding war will ensue. Unfortunately, it's not likely. A lot of potential bidders will see the listing but the $480 starting price isn't low enough to really get their attention because it's not enough of a bargain. If you start the bidding at $.01, those potential bidders are likely to put it on their watch list, check, it once in a while, and gradually get more an more interested in it over the course of the auction. I've found myself on both sides of this situation -- as both a buyer and seller -- and as a buyer I've chased some $.01 start guns higher than I would have paid if I'd just stumbled upon them listed at the price that I eventually paid for the gun.)

5. Adjust your shipping cost to where it's even with or slightly lower than most competitors (even if you have to eat a little bit of the shipping costs). The best way (in my state, anyway) to ship a handgun is to find an FFL that will ship it for you for a reasonable fee. FFLs can ship handguns in a USPS flat rate box, (about $18 or less) then if they charge you, say, $20 extra, you are a lot better off than shipping it yourself.

6. Run the listing for approximately 12-14 days, and end it on Sunday night at about 10:30 PM Eastern time.

As I said, I've sold several guns this way and they all brought at or above the top end of the range that similar guns have been selling for.
16 Turbo,

I will try $0.01 start the bidding, but I have to set a reserve price , because I already contacted all FFL near to me and have no way to decrease the shipping charge, If I don't set the reserve price , I may have big chance fail and finally must sell the gun in low price. Thank you very much to provide so many good advices.
6. Run the listing for approximately 12-14 days, and end it on Sunday night at about 10:30 PM Eastern time.
As I said, I've sold several guns this way and they all brought at or above the top end of the range that similar guns have been selling for.
 
hello efeng9622. there are many helpful suggestions here. i have over 70 a+ ratings as a gb.com buyer, but never sold anything on gb.com. i sell my undesired guns via consignment at a reputable local gun shop for 85% of the listed price. with 1-2 exceptions i never make a profit.

my suggestions (as others have also said):
-many well-lit, sharp photos of all angles of the gun.
-a story of the gun and you. who are you, explain yourself and acknowledge your single a+ rating? what is the gun’s history before and after you bought it (especially round count)? when did you buy it? where did you use it, under what circumstances? why did you buy it (ccw, curious, range toy, someone’s recommendation), why are you selling it? how did you care for it, current description with full disclosure of any cosmetic or functional issues.
-don’t apologize for your imperfect english. use auto-correct, have a native speaker check it. do explain your back story.
-recognize that gun ownership is costly, and to make money or break-even on a sale is rare. selling your used gun is like selling your used car. we all buy guns that we thought that we would like, but end up disliking.

may i guess that you are of chinese origin and a relatively recent immigrant to america? welcome, if so, and apologies if im mistaken. if you are, please let me thank you sincerely for your lawful immigration and for appreciating america’s truly unique second amendment, which was born on april 19, 1775 when british troops marched out of boston to seize arms, not a printing press, not taxes, not a political leader. it is my experience that too many immigrants (and indeed americans) fail to appreciate the true contribution of all our bill of rights to our success.
 
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I looked at your ad on GB. I can tell you I would have passed on your ad because there aren’t enough photos to make me feel good about the gun.
I would want to see close up shots of the bore, the breech face, the rear of the cylinder, a chamber shot, a shot of the inside of the frame near the barrel, the muzzle of the barrel.
Photos that show the condition of the gun would help.
One can say a gun is in great shape, but if there are no photos to prove that I wouldn’t believe it.
 
I would list it on Armslist instead of GunBroker. Unfortunately it's a more local to you audience. And you only pay a monthly fee instead of GunBroker's oppressive ones. I gave up selling on GunBroker anymore do to their very oppressive fees.

I never buy from private parties anymore on GunBroker. If I can't pay by credit card I don't purchase.

Yes, I got scammed by a hacked person's account and GunBroker couldn't have cared two ****s about it. No help at all. They don't care.
At least if I had payed by credit card you will have recourse thru the credit card company. Yes, that's happened as well to me.
 
....

title: Ruger 5456 LCRx 9mm Luger 5 round
item condition: used
Item description : item includes original the finger grip ,
Starting price, $470.00, buy now price $510, no reserve price.
Payment method : : USPS Money Order, Money Order ,Certified Check
Shipping: Ground $50 , seller pays insurance
Return policy : As is- no refund or exchange
Please look at if you find anywhere has English problem, Thanks,
I am not aware that any shipper that will accept a handgun for ground transportation.
 
If you only buy popular firearms a reputable dealer will make a nice trade out of it. Better than messing with on line sales. Been there done that.
 
If you do get a sale, then remember to leave feedback. I am still angry at a small shop for not leaving me feedback after buying an expensive gun from them. Especially with how hard up everyone is for ratings. All this after I left them 5 stars. Pathetic.
 
1. A big thing is that right now guns and knives seem to be a bit of a buyer's market. Nothing anyone can do about that individually. But you should set your expectations accordingly. You are selling a common gun of no particular rarity or value, and it's used. Guns like that don't sell for close to retail price, and if you calculate all the fees and taxes that will get lumped on the back end, a lot of people can probably get a new 9mm LCR locally to them for close to what you're asking them to buy your used one for and wait a week or two to get.
2. There are several flags on your listing that indicate the possibility of a scam. Mainly, the broken English (not your fault, I know, it is what it is) and the lack of feedback (also not much that can be done about that). In order to counteract that, you could clean up the text in your listing and take better photos. Another thing is you can offer to use a gun sale escrow service like Chicken Dinner Arms offers (basically they take payment and also arrange for shipping the gun from you to them - they hold the payment and inspect the gun, then send you the payment and the gun to the buyer).
 
ITelekiness,

I am sorry for I am not a native speaker,
I put my sale ad as following,

title: Ruger 5456 LCRx 9mm Luger 5 round
item condition: used
Item description : item includes original the finger grip ,
Starting price, $470.00, buy now price $510, no reserve price.
Payment method : : USPS Money Order, Money Order ,Certified Check
Shipping: Ground $50 , seller pays insurance
Return policy : As is- no refund or exchange
Please look at if you find anywhere has English problem, Thanks,
Some claim it's because it's a revolver and everyone wants semiautos which is ridiculous. A LOT of revolvers used and new in all different calibers get a lot of traffic and sell on GB regularly. There's another used LCRx in 9mm on GB also that's already has 20 bids and still 6 days to go that proves that assertion wrong as well.

  1. You only have 1 feedback which is a red-flag for many in itself, and you're requesting that the buyer send a "USPS Money Order, Money Order, Certified Check" only? That's two red-flags. Even if I wanted it, I wouldn't bid on it or buy from you, and I suspect others feel the sane way.
  2. You're asking $520 at the low end for your used LCRx with wear. NIB Ruger LCRx can be had for $630 on GunBroker from a FFL with lots of feedback who accepts credit/debit with no fees.
  3. There's a competing ad for a used LCRx that has 10x the number of pictures as you, their pictures are better quality than yours, their shipping price is $10 lower, they're an FFL, they have over 27 thousand feedback vs your 1, and most importantly, their bidding started out and is currently much lower. If I was looking for an LCRx, I'd skip your ad, and would be bidding on this one.
 
I posted an ad to sell a handgun in gunbroker 4 days ago, my starting price is $470.00 , no reserve price, I saw a same handgun already end of bid on 11/1 and the price was $504 .00 the bid history shows there are at lease three people who bided price high than $470.00 .

A lot of times you have to get people into the right mind set to make stupid decisions.

Auctions are a great place to see it though. I would try lowering your starting price, you get a bunch of boys in there, that decide they want something then, now all they have to do is beat out the others that also have come to the same conclusion.

Your price was obviously more than they would pay thinking clearly, so you have to give them other stuff to think about when increasing their bids, like “loosing“ to others.

I’m kind of the opposite though, before I bid on anything, I always have a “maximum” bid in mind. When I do win something it’s generally a deal though.
 
A lot of times you have to get people into the right mind set to make stupid decisions.

Auctions are a great place to see it though. I would try lowering your starting price, you get a bunch of boys in there, that decide they want something then, now all they have to do is beat out the others that also have come to the same conclusion.

Your price was obviously more than they would pay thinking clearly, so you have to give them other stuff to think about when increasing their bids, like “loosing“ to others.

I’m kind of the opposite though, before I bid on anything, I always have a “maximum” bid in mind. When I do win something it’s generally a deal though.
It's really not a bad price, but the problem is shipping fees and little feedback. I'm afraid that even if he lowered his price the price isn't going to go that far up as many will not want to take a risk sending money order of $500+ to 1 feedback seller.

@efeng9622
Take more and better pictures; ss many as you can. Try to accept credit cards as an option if possible, and you may need to lower your shipping price.

Next, if I were you, I'd list on both RugerForums in their market place and on other gun forums. Potential buyers will not have to worry about being taxed and you can lower your price because you will not have to worry about listing fees. FYI: ArmsList cost $7 IIRC, and has turnt into a ghost town. Only members who sign up can see your complete ad, and potential buyers would have to create and pay for an account to contact you. I personslly wouldn't waste my money on that.
 
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I would list it on Armslist instead of GunBroker. Unfortunately it's a more local to you audience. And you only pay a monthly fee instead of GunBroker's oppressive ones. I gave up selling on GunBroker anymore do to their very oppressive fees.

I never buy from private parties anymore on GunBroker. If I can't pay by credit card I don't purchase.

Yes, I got scammed by a hacked person's account and GunBroker couldn't have cared two ****s about it. No help at all. They don't care.
At least if I had payed by credit card you will have recourse thru the credit card company. Yes, that's happened as well to me.
Is a monthly fee only $ 6.99 for credit card ? Why did someone ask $3.99 for ACH? Can a Maryland resident create a VA account ?
 
I will try $0.01 start the bidding, but I have to set a reserve price , because I already contacted all FFL near to me and have no way to decrease the shipping charge, If I don't set the reserve price , I may have big chance fail and finally must sell the gun in low price. Thank you very much to provide so many good advices.
IMO, a reserve price will almost assure that you don't get bidders, so I would not do that.

If you're not willing or able to start it at a penny and do all of the things that I suggested above, I would do the following if I wanted the gun sold:

-- Consider this example of a completed auction for a similar gun: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1009511975

-- Consider this active auction of another gun similar to yours. Once this auction closes it may may give you a good idea of the what you could expect to get via a well-placed listing. Also an example of some decent photos: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1013952045

-- Given the results of the above two auctions, you may have to consider that your gun might not bring as much as you'd hoped. (It seems like there's a pretty big gap between the typical selling prices for new LCRs vs. used LCRs. Luckily for you, there aren't many used 9-mms on offer.)

-- Reduce the shipping charge to no more than $35, or even better $29 (even if you have to absorb some of it).

-- Add more information to your description.
Explain which two grips come with the gun (are they the original factory grips plus a set of Hogue grips?)
State how many rounds have been fired through the gun.
State how much insurance will cost. (Either don't mention insurance, or set a price so that it's not an open question in the buyer's mind when you mention it in the listing.)
 
Is a monthly fee only $ 6.99 for credit card ? Why did someone ask $3.99 for ACH? Can a Maryland resident create a VA account ?
ArmsList is a monthly fee that both the seller has to pay to list their items, AND buyers would have to pay to be able to contact seller. Ever since ArmsList started forcing buyers to pay a monthly fee, the site has fell off. I bought and sold on ArmsList dozens of times going back to 2012, and it's not what it use to be. Not a lot of traffic anymore, and will be even less in states were face to face sales aren't allowed aka you have to go through a FFL.
 
I am not aware that any shipper that will accept a handgun for ground transportation.
do you mean my FFL will not ship this handgun for ground transportation because it will take too long time? I don't know, he didn't tell me that. the Gunbroker only provide two options: ground and other, maybe I should put " other"?
ground
 
If you do a penny auction with a reserve, then it really isn't a penny auction. I wouldn't bid on it as I get tired of the reserve game; that isn't an auction in my mind.

You may want to take it to an FFL who will consign it for you. Less hassle and, in the end, you may be at the same amount of money.
 
I buy and sell a lot of guns on gunbroker and tons of car parts and other stuff other places online. The 3 biggest keys to selling stuff online is fair pricing, using the right keyword so people can find your listing when they search, and really good pictures. Take lots and lots of pictures in good lighting. For most guns I take between 10 and 20 pictures. The better your pictures are, the better the price you will get. Also its important to put in a good amount of text in the description and put in all the part numbers, sku number, UPC number ect... That way it will actually show up when people search for those things. Also work on your shipping charge. $50 is too much. If you sign up for an online shipping service like Pirate Ship, you will be able to ship it 2nd day air UPS for about $20-$30 with adult signature delivery.
 
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