Why doesn't Pietta and Uberti make thier revolvers more reliable?

This is my pet peeve about the Italian guns, especially Ubertis. Screws made from cheese and over torqued at the factory. I haven't had the problem with Pietta, but on my Uberti 1866 and 1873 Sporting Rifles. I should not have to drill out screws on my mill to disassemble them. AFAIC, if you buy an Uberti lever action you should factor in the need to replace at least some of the screws with a properly hardened set from VTI Gun Parts.

(Yes, I have properly fitting gunsmith screwdrivers and lots of Kroil. Those screws would not budge.)

Any idea where we can get proper, harden screws for Uberti 1858 New Army, Target, stainless, I just purchased brand new one. Also, I had noticed that nipples on it aren't from stainless, but from one of carbon steel alloys and finished in black. Should I replace them with stainless or bronze (?) ones?

Hand impact driver is the trick. Guarantee I could have popped them right out with it. Have to use it on almost every screw of a new Uberti rifle. Works every single time I've never drilled one out or messed up the screw using it. I used to mess up screws and cuss like mad until I learned that trick. A friend of mine even brought one over a while back that he had almost completely stripped the head out of a couple screws on a 73 and we popped them right out in one lick. He brought it over thinking we were going to have to drill them out on my mill.

If you are happy with hand impact driver you have, would you please let us know manufacturer and model, and where it could be purchased.

Thanks to both of you.
 
Track of the Wolf has many choices for nipples, in my area finding #10 caps is very difficult so I have either modified or replaced most of the nipples on my revolvers.
 
Any idea where we can get proper, harden screws for Uberti 1858 New Army, Target, stainless, I just purchased brand new one. Also, I had noticed that nipples on it aren't from stainless, but from one of carbon steel alloys and finished in black. Should I replace them with stainless or bronze (?) ones?



If you are happy with hand impact driver you have, would you please let us know manufacturer and model, and where it could be purchased.

Thanks to both of you.
I am extremely happy with mine, it's small and compact but unfortunately it's no longer made. I was wanting to buy another and found out they had been discontinued. It uses the small bits so I always use the Brownells Magna-tip bits for a good fit and it has really been the trick getting those stubborn screws out of Uberti guns. All I can say is do a search and try to find a suitable impact driver, maybe someone else will chime in on a good one that is still available.
 
I think that the trick with cones is to find some that are too tight, then chuck them in the drill press and file and sand them down. It takes very little to do that, and then you can custom fit them, perfectly, to whatever caps you use. Don't worry about measurement, just have a cap or two when you do that, and just periodically try the cap on the cone as you are filing down. When it's almost there, finish it off with fine emery paper. I'm telling ya, perfect fit.
 
I had factory nips on my DGG 1860 for many years, but seems like all caps were loose. Used to pinch them. But now I custom fit some stainless ones to fit CCI#11's, and along with it's now perfect timing and functioning, action stop, cap-rake and action shield, it is one fine revolver. Still looks like a beater...but she sure can cook.
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I've got one that # 10 caps are too big for but they've been in there since 1969 and probably aren't coming out.
 
If factory nipples are too small, one can always shorten them up to about .006 - .008" (depending on the particular revolver), because they are too long. That way one not only gets better fitting nipples, but they also clear contact with the hammer - about .005 - .006" clearance is tolerable and desired. That goes for aftermarket nipples as well. But as already mentioned, only if needed.
 
If factory nipples are too small, one can always shorten them up to about .006 - .008" (depending on the particular revolver), because they are too long. That way one not only gets better fitting nipples, but they also clear contact with the hammer - about .005 - .006" clearance is tolerable and desired. That goes for aftermarket nipples as well. But as already mentioned, only if needed.

Yes that is true, but you could wind up with too much clearance between the hammer and cone, and that can be a problem. (as in my 1862 when it was brand new. First time I ever tried to shoot it...CLICK. CLICK. CLICK.) I'd rather have the hammer striking the cone, than getting miss-fires, although of course a perfectly tuned revolver can give you both.
 
I had factory nips on my DGG 1860 for many years, but seems like all caps were loose. Used to pinch them. But now I custom fit some stainless ones to fit CCI#11's, and along with it's now perfect timing and functioning, action stop, cap-rake and action shield, it is one fine revolver. Still looks like a beater...but she sure can cook.
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That is one beautiful revolver… I may have to try a 6” tube.
 
I may have to get the barrel blued...but I like the been-around-the-block look too, as it has earned it, and has not been artificially "distressed".

I've gone to 6" on most of my revolvers, that extra 1.5 or 2 inches just seems to make a difference when it's on my belt in a holster, and sitting on the ground a lot. It handles well and has a nice feel, not better than the long barrel but different. So yeah, if you don't have a 6" gun check it out. Try it you'll like it.
 
Yes that is true, but you could wind up with too much clearance between the hammer and cone, and that can be a problem...
This is where measuring instruments and common sense come in handy. Not to mention, that if one has a revolver with short arbor, this problem should be addressed first.
 
I may have to get the barrel blued...but I like the been-around-the-block look too, as it has earned it, and has not been artificially "distressed".

I've gone to 6" on most of my revolvers, that extra 1.5 or 2 inches just seems to make a difference when it's on my belt in a holster, and sitting on the ground a lot. It handles well and has a nice feel, not better than the long barrel but different. So yeah, if you don't have a 6" gun check it out. Try it you'll like it.
I’ve considered having some of the old ones spruced up too. Probably wouldn’t recognize them. And like you say, it’s all earned. My missus and I don’t look as shiny as we once did either and I’m ok with that too. We’ve earned every wrinkle and scar.
Now, I’m sending that purty Pietta to Mr. @Jackrabbit1957. Might have to beg him to chop that barrel for me.
 
i have one of my piettas that i have shot at least over 1000 shots and spring is still going strong
 
Great. Have at it and put as much money into your revolver as you like. If there were a market for what you want, the manufacturers would presumably be all over it. Heck, you can't even buy a new Ruger old army any more because there isn't a market for it.
No they wouldn't because they couldn't mass produce that quality if they even wanted.
 
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