Why doesn't Pietta and Uberti make thier revolvers more reliable?

Black cloud said:
I never had reliable problems with them, but for the price they sell these guns for you are going to have to take the time to tune it to what you want it to be. or if your lucky you can find a roa at a decent price, lol or spend the money on a davide pendersoli. I just tune the uberti and pietta and shoot the piss out of them. I have never wore one out or stretched a brass frame.
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Brass frames don't stretch. The recoil shield gets battered.
 
Jackrabbit1957 said:
cap post if desired,
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Desire the cap post. Trust me, a very important upgrade if you carry the gun hiking or as a hunting side-arm. Paper puncher and soda-can killer, I guess one could get along without it. On the pocket guns, a must. Must have. Don't leave home without it!
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Desire the cap post. Trust me, a very important upgrade if you carry the gun hiking or as a hunting side-arm. Paper puncher and soda-can killer, I guess one could get along without it. On the pocket guns, a must. Must have. Don't leave home without it!
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What is a cap post?
 
red rick said:
That engraving is what keeps me from buying it .
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I'll have to post a pic of my "billboard" on the barrel of mine. Maybe the newer Patron's have something different than mine. ? I've had mine for quite a few years now. On mine, it is very subtle, small, light and in good taste. We may be talking about two different things!

I have the stainless steel model, perhaps the blued guns are done differently. Yeah, sometime today I'll try to take a pic of it.
 
Jackrabbit1957 said:
It's a small finger of steel installed in the slot the hammer falls into. It keeps a spent cap from getting pulled into the hammer slot.
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I believe it does more than that. Somehow changes the dynamics of the blow-back. That's my theory anyhow. On my 1862, I believe the hammer was blowing back slightly, and the caps were blowing back with it, then dropping off as the hammer re-bounded. It seems like, to me, that the slot for the post bleeds off some of the blow back, and even if the hammer does bounce back, the post blocks the cap from blowing back. ? Again, just my theory. But, on my pistol, it did eliminate hammer blow back. (well unless I stoke it with a full charge of 4fg)(yeah, I'm going back to 3fg and a not so full charge)(but with the cap post, the caps still do not drop into the action, full charge or not)

On a pistol that does not have that nasty habit, I think it can still happen once in a great while. The post in that case is insurance against it. But again, paper puncher or field gun? That could be the deciding factor. Personally, I'll never ever own another Colt without a cap-post.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
I'll have to post a pic of my "billboard" on the barrel of mine. Maybe the newer Patron's have something different than mine. ? I've had mine for quite a few years now. On mine, it is very subtle, small, light and in good taste. We may be talking about two different things!

I have the stainless steel model, perhaps the blued guns are done differently. Yeah, sometime today I'll try to take a pic of it.
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I looked at the El Patron before I bought my Smoke Wagon about 8 years ago . I didn’t like the laser engraving and I didn’t want to see El Patron on the barrel . I like a clean look . Not knocking the El Patron , it’s just me and what I like . That is the same reason that I spent more on a Uberti 1851 over the Pietta , cosmetics .
 
Ugly Sauce said:
I have a El Patron, and there's nothing on it except the old patent dates on the frame, and then "El Patron" and ".45 Colt" are small and very lightly (laser?) engraved on the barrel, no stamping. ?
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Mibe is the same way. It's by far my favorite '73. Smooth as glass......
 
I think what the OP wants in a BP revolver is the same thing that Uberti offers with the SAA . It would probably be more than $50 dollars , but I think they would sell . I just wonder if they would correct the short arbor . I paid more for my factory tuned SAA , as well as some of you did .
 
Ugly Sauce said:
You described me exactly. I think I'm good with metal, but wood...not. I have made a few bows, and I make my own arrows, but that seems "different" from working on a stock or pistol grips.
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I’m a fair bowyer and I’m not bad at fletching arrows, can straighten shafting, etc but I do not possess the gene responsible for crafting grips.
I guess I’ve never thought much about it but tillering a bow is a freeform craft. We’re not trying to make a piece of wood fit into a shape particularly, we’re trying to find the shape within the stave. The part that wants to bend and spring back time and time again. Seems easy really. After you’ve broken a few…
 
45 Dragoon said:
...Seems some folks would rather spend $600 and have a "lifetime" revolver than 2 mediocre $300 throw aways ( over time of course).

Mike
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I newer understood "el cheapo" mentality. I can understand that for some Lincoln or Lexus are out of reach, and they drive Ford, Chevrolet or Chrysler, but we are talking about tens of thousands of dollars difference.

I would rather have several good, reliable and nicely tuned C&B revolvers costing me (each) $300-400 in the store, plus $300-400 for a tuning, than dozen or two out of the mill mediocre ones, just for the sake of quantity.

While living in greater Toronto area, I had seen a number of hunters going moose hunting in northern Ontario, we are talking about few days of driving in each direction, minimum one week all together. And total expense could go into thousands of dollars. Yet, some folks buy cheapest soft point rifle ammo, "saving" $50-60 not buying few boxes of premium quality ammo. Go figure...
 
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Miguel Loco said:
Mine is the same way. It's by far my favorite '73. Smooth as glass......
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Indeed. Mine is probably the best timed, smoothest pistol I own. Perhaps with the exception of my S&W Highway Patrolman .357, and even then I'd say "equal". Trigger is neither too light or heavy, just "superb". ! I've never handled an original Colt SAA, but I cannot detect how it could be superior, in that respect or in fit and finish. I have no idea if they are all like that, but looks like we both got perfect examples.

Mine being stainless, the "El Patron .45 Colt" could easily be removed and re-polished, but I think it's in good taste, small, hardly noticeable. Certainly nothing like Ruger's "WARNING READ INSRUCTION MANUAL BLAH CAUTION BLAH CAUTION BLAH CONSULT YOUR LAYWER BEFORE USING WE ARE ALL GOING TO DIE" markings stamped deeply into the metal. :)
 
I have a SAA in .357, which only has "ASM ITALY * EMF B.A. CAL * ". Which is underneath the Barrel. On top is says "Hartford CT Model" and on the side of the barrel "Single Action Army .357". Very nice pistol, timing seems to be great, other than a slightly "clunky" feel. Fit and finish, and case hardening is perfect. Primers tend to crater a bit will my .357 loads, (making cylinder rotation difficult) have never tried factory loads in it, but it is very accurate with my hot .38 Special loads which don't "crater". I've never messed with the cratering issue, as I have two other .357's that handle full loads well, so the gun is just as useful to me as a +P+ .38 Special. But, don't have much use for it as it weighs more than my El Patron in .45 Colt, so which one to take hiking is a no-brainer. Don't know what this has to do with anything, but I thought I'd throw it in. Will probably trade it to a friend for a New Model Remington he has with the shorter barrel. I think it's a Pietta, not sure.
 
BamRanchCowboy said:
And the screws? Oh boy. I'd like to know why on Earth Pietta thought soft screws would be a good idea for thier firearms. I've had to swap these screws out for high quality steel ones and never looked back.
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This is my pet peeve about the Italian guns, especially Ubertis. Screws made from cheese and over torqued at the factory. I haven't had the problem with Pietta, but on my Uberti 1866 and 1873 Sporting Rifles. I should not have to drill out screws on my mill to disassemble them. AFAIC, if you buy an Uberti lever action you should factor in the need to replace at least some of the screws with a properly hardened set from VTI Gun Parts.

(Yes, I have properly fitting gunsmith screwdrivers and lots of Kroil. Those screws would not budge.)
 
Dave Markowitz said:
This is my pet peeve about the Italian guns, especially Ubertis. Screws made from cheese and over torqued at the factory. I haven't had the problem with Pietta, but on my Uberti 1866 and 1873 Sporting Rifles. I should not have to drill out screws on my mill to disassemble them. AFAIC, if you buy an Uberti lever action you should factor in the need to replace at least some of the screws with a properly hardened set from VTI Gun Parts.

(Yes, I have properly fitting gunsmith screwdrivers and lots of Kroil. Those screws would not budge.)
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Hand impact driver is the trick. Guarantee I could have popped them right out with it. Have to use it on almost every screw of a new Uberti rifle. Works every single time I've never drilled one out or messed up the screw using it. I used to mess up screws and cuss like mad until I learned that trick. A friend of mine even brought one over a while back that he had almost completely stripped the head out of a couple screws on a 73 and we popped them right out in one lick. He brought it over thinking we were going to have to drill them out on my mill.
 
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