Why is servicing your own autoloader considered okay but not your own revolver?

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Oct 24, 2017
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This is something I will never understand despite hearing every reason out there. If you completely disassemble any mass produced DA revolver vs any modern autoloader, it's going to be much easier and faster to put back together from my experience. There's not really as many parts as people make it out to be. If you have a picture for reference or even just a basic understanding of what each part is, it's pretty simple. Besides the mainspring, nothing is really under constant tension. I'd much rather have to reassemble a DA revolver than a trigger or slide assembly on any modern semi autos.

Yet a lot of manufacturers are perfectly okay with people replacing parts in their own autoloaders, but not their revolvers. This just doesn't make sense to me at all.

Do they just think the average revolver guy is dumber than the average autoloader guy?
 
It's the straight slotted screws - most of the gun owners don't have a clue what a "proper fitting screwdriver" means...

P.S. Older revolvers (pre-MIM) usually have parts that require hand fitting and this is where many crash with a bang, expecting the part just to drop in and act surprised when it doesn't.
 
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It's the straight slotted screws - most of the gun owners don't have a clue what a "proper fitting screwdriver" means...

P.S. Older revolvers (pre-MIM) usually have parts that require hand fitting and this is where many crush with a bang, expecting the part just to drop in and act surprised when it doesn't.
been there! done that!

taking a revolver apart is like taking a clock apart.

what gun screw drivers you people are using? I like the one that comes in the black box with bits.

I learned to fit the bit 1st to ensure a tight fit before starting to turn
 
20170626_191230.jpg

My Model 10 took a serious bath one day. So much so when I got home that evening the grip was still partially full of water. I took that as a reason to do a nearly full disassemble. Dried, cleaned, and reassembled.

I bought an Iver Johnson top break 38 S&W that had bad timing. Bought the needed parts from Numrich and fitted the new hand to the old cylinder. It shoots pretty good for a very tired 100+ year old revolver.

I have also done a fair amount of work on my competition N-frames. Chamfering cylinder, replacing springs as needed.
 
What parts are you servicing on which revolvers? I’ve replaced springs and other various parts on S&Ws, Colts, a Dan Wesson and Rugers . I never asked the manufacturers opinion on the matter.
 
what gun screw drivers you people are using? I like the one that comes in the black box with bits.

I learned to fit the bit 1st to ensure a tight fit before starting to turn

Wheeler is a common brand. Any firearm supply company will have sets for sale that work well-Midway and Brownells, etc.
 
Wheeler is a common brand. Any firearm supply company will have sets for sale that work well-Midway and Brownells, etc.
that’s the one I got! Got 2 of them. The old grey case that pops open all the time and the new locking black case
 
What parts are you servicing on which revolvers? I’ve replaced springs and other various parts on S&Ws, Colts, a Dan Wesson and Rugers . I never asked the manufacturers opinion on the matter.

Colt mainly. It's damn near impossible to get parts for a current production revolvers from them. I'm not just talking about things like mainsprings and hammers that still need to be carefully matched for best fit, but just general stuff that's pretty universal like a trigger return spring that broke on mine, or something like the transfer bar that just slots into place.

S&W as well. I tried to buy a new trigger for my TRR8. I know you can find their triggers easily online but not the ones like the TRR8 has with a built in stop on the back...at least at the time. S&W wouldn't ship me internal parts.

Kimber wouldn't sell my old manager a new cylinder.

Edit: I misread your question as brand instead of parts.

Trigger Return Spring for 2017 Cobra.
 
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Colt mainly. It's damn near impossible to get parts for a current production revolvers from them. I'm not just talking about things like mainsprings and hammers that still need to be carefully matched for best fit, but just general stuff that's pretty universal like a trigger return spring that broke on mine, or something like the transfer bar that just slots into place.

S&W as well. I tried to buy a new trigger for my TRR8. I know you can find their triggers easily online but not the ones like the TRR8 has with a built in stop on the back...at least at the time. S&W wouldn't ship me internal parts.

Kimber would sell my old manager a new cylinder.

Edit: I misread your question as brand instead of parts.

Trigger Return Spring for 2017 Cobra.
at that point… i would buy a beater Colt as a parts gun until parts become available. or get on Twitter and tag Colt for there QC on the gun. That should get there attention. Lots of Photos and email screen shots is the key
 
Do they want you to send the gun back to replace the trigger return spring? Seems like a colossal waste of money to go that route…. I’d guess Colt would do the same thing if it was a broken sear spring on a 1911.
 
Most autos are fairly easy to disassemble without any damage.
The key parts and operating surfaces are larger and more intuitive in operation.

Most revolvers have parts like side plates that have to be removed carefully and correctly to avoid damage.
Revolver cylinders usually require special tooling to disassemble and without those there's a risk.
Until very recently revolvers were largely hand fitted and had tiny working surfaces.
Most untrained people just didn't notice all this and often caused problems.

Today it's better since most newer revolvers are "machine fitted" and are much simpler actions with fewer parts and larger operating surfaces.

Then too, most autos have only grip screws, where revolvers usually have a number of screws that can be stripped or dinked up with incorrect screwdrivers.

Most anyone with reasonable hand skills and basic knowledge can disassemble a revolver and replace non-fitted parts like springs.
Beyond that you need to understand the action and how to fit parts. That starts edging into pistolsmith territory.

One key to revolvers is in knowing HOW something is supposed to come apart and back together.
 
My perception of the internals of revolvers is hand fitted parts. I have been through many a 1911 with custom parts installed by me, with much success. I am a Glock armorer, and have zero issues with that.
Although I am an avid student of George Nonte's "Pistolsmithing", once I opened a Smith revolver, my first reaction was "Um, no..." Replacing the odd spring is one thing, but putting together major component parts is beyond my willingness to proceed.
 
anybody got a link to that Old Colt parts website? need a side plate screw for a Colt OMM… no, it came that way and is bothering me
 
This is something I will never understand despite hearing every reason out there. If you completely disassemble any mass produced DA revolver vs any modern autoloader, it's going to be much easier and faster to put back together from my experience. There's not really as many parts as people make it out to be. If you have a picture for reference or even just a basic understanding of what each part is, it's pretty simple. Besides the mainspring, nothing is really under constant tension. I'd much rather have to reassemble a DA revolver than a trigger or slide assembly on any modern semi autos.

Yet a lot of manufacturers are perfectly okay with people replacing parts in their own autoloaders, but not their revolvers. This just doesn't make sense to me at all.

Do they just think the average revolver guy is dumber than the average autoloader guy?

Not much difference..........I and most do both.
 
I'd take some pictures of my disassembled Colt but I literally just dropped it off at FedEx for the RMA.

Do they want you to send the gun back to replace the trigger return spring? Seems like a colossal waste of money to go that route…. I’d guess Colt would do the same thing if it was a broken sear spring on a 1911.

It's pretty dumb in this case. I get it with the mainspring and hammer because they're the two parts that still need to be matched up for the best fit, as they directly hook to each other and stay under constant tension. I actually broke a hammer on it before because I replaced the mainspring with one that didn't match perfectly.

I can also kinda understand it with the hand because sometimes a minor difference between the other parts can cause a hand to work perfectly in one gun and not quite lockup all the way in a different one...at least with how Colt's lock up.

Anything else though is pretty universal. They all connect at a single point, and other than the hammer and mainspring, nothing else stays under heavy tension at all times.

The trigger return spring also is just a cheap little two coil torsion spring. Honestly I feel like they should include 10 of them in the box with every gun. It just sits on the little post that the trigger pivots from.
 
I recently got into handguns after inheriting a Rossi M68. It was my wife's 98-year-old grandmother's concealed carry. It hadn't been properly cleaned in years so I attempted to disassemble and clean it the best I could. I went a little further than what is pictured. Broke down the cylinder and removed the release and latch. It has sentimental value but down the road I may use this or perhaps purchase a beater to work on gunsmithing skills. It was a fun learning experience.

Rossi-1.jpg
 
I notice that where the revolvers are disassembled in this
thread, the cylinder and its components have not been
touched. And wisely so.

I also notice that the "unitized" components of the Smiths
have not been taken apart by removing the pins which
make them a unit. And wisely so.
 
I notice that where the revolvers are disassembled in this
thread, the cylinder and its components have not been
touched. And wisely so.

Can I ask why?

I've only been monkeying around with revolvers for a couple of months, but one of the first things I had to do was buy the tool to completely disassemble the cylinders on several M&P 340s. The gas ring (or gas shield?) was letting so much lead in that they refused to turn after 50 rounds. The trigger became so heavy that I couldn't hit the broad side of a barn. The cylinders would not spin freely.

I actually sent the first one back to S&W because of this issue. While waiting for it to come back I bought two more 340s to keep me busy. Both had the same issue.

Found it was easier to learn how to clean them on my own. So far, this decision has worked out, but now you have me wondering if I'm screwing up by doing this.
 
I notice that where the revolvers are disassembled in this
thread, the cylinder and its components have not been
touched. And wisely so.

I also notice that the "unitized" components of the Smiths
have not been taken apart by removing the pins which
make them a unit. And wisely so.

I've taken Colt cylinders apart before. You just gotta make sure you don't lose the two REALLY tiny ball bearings. I dropped one in tall grass off my back porch one time. I freaked out but somehow found it lol.
 
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