jcwit
member
Waiting to see the answer to this one also. At the most it sounds like a fluke to me.
Why Only Lee?
- Thread starter lizziedog1
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Waiting to see the answer to this one also. At the most it sounds like a fluke to me.
Some of the best money I ever spent was to buy Lee's shellholder set, along with a shellholder set for the old school Lee Autoprime. I did this after having one too many #$%& moments when I forgot to buy the shellholder with a set of RCBS dies. The price is right to always have the shellholder you need on hand.
I use mostly RCBS dies, but now have a few Lee sets and several Lee FCDs to use in station 4 on my Dillon.
I use mostly RCBS dies, but now have a few Lee sets and several Lee FCDs to use in station 4 on my Dillon.
I'm having a hard time understanding this. What didn't fit?
I didn't say you didn't know. I said you wasn't using them right. I just assume you don't know.
I just checked there site & even there RGB dies have lock rings. Where did you buy these?
I didn't say you didn't know. I said you wasn't using them right. I just assume you don't know.
I just checked there site & even there RGB dies have lock rings. Where did you buy these?
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CollinLeon
member
I recently decided to add to my die collection so that I could reload a few more calibers. I have a Dillon unit, so I have to buy the Dillon shellplate, locator buttons, and powder funnel. for each of the calibers. There is also the option of just buying their "conversion kit" that has all of these items in a small blue plastic box. The cost of the separate items is more than the cost of the kit, so even if I don't need all the items in the kit, I end up buying the kit and just having extra items.
Personally, I would rather have some sort of series of display cases that would allow me to store all of the shellplates together, all of the locator buttons together, and all of the powder funnels together. Each location in the case could be labeled so that you would know the part number for that item. From there, you could have a table that said for example, "for .45ACP caliber, you would need shellplate #1, locator buttons #1, powder funnel #E".
There is a certain convenience to having one small blue box that has everything I need for a particular caliber in it, but not so much that I'm willing to pay much extra for it. For example, for most calibers, the conversion kit cost $44.95. Buying all the items separately would cost $53.63. When I decided that I wanted to add the capability to reload 7.62x51 (.308), I looked at their chart and say that I needed shellplate #1, locator buttons #1, and powder funnel #B. Since I already had that shellplate and locator buttons for reloading .45ACP, all I really needed was the powder funnel #B. So, instead of ordering the entire conversion kit for $44.95, I ordered just the powder funnel for $14.95 and even bought the small plastic box which was $3.95 (overpriced in my opinion) and still came out $26.05 ahead of buying the entire conversion kit with the duplicate items.
On the other hand, there have been some calibers where I didn't need the entire conversion kit, but bought it because it was cheaper to buy the kit than it was to just buy the items that I needed. If you don't need the locator buttons, it's cheaper to buy the kit and just have extras than to only buy what you need since the powder funnel is $14.95 and shellplate is $33.45 (total of $48.40). So, for less than the cost of the powder funnel plus the shellplate, you get both of those plus the locator buttons and the plastic case. Yeah, I'll put up with having duplicates when it works out to be cheaper for me...
Now, as this relates to Lee dies...
Since I use a Dillon press, I do not need the Lee powder dies or shell holders, so that is just a waste of money for me, but I still buy the complete Lee die sets so that I at least have the option of loading on a single stage press if I so desire.
The first few Lee die sets I bought came in the round cylindrical plastic containers. The last few that I've bought come in flat rectangular plastic containers. From a stacking / clutter management standpoint, I think I prefer the newer (i.e. flat rectangular containers). From the standpoint of at least theoretically protecting the screw threads on the dies, maybe the round container is better.
I started w/ Lee and am sticking w/ them, I have used a Redding for .300 Whisper when Lee didn't have them avail and a Hornady to use w/ their flext tip bullet. I should have waited or sent in a bullet to lee for a new bullet seater plug. the other dies' lock rings, even w/ an allen screw, still didn't lock in that great, have never had an issue w/ my Lee dies, or other components made by them, plus they have a good warranty and great customer service. Their instructions are clear and have load data. I believe Mr. Lee loves reloading so much he cares enough to share. And yeah the shellholder is a plus.
to the previous poster the round plastic containers will hold the 3 or 4 turret dies/plates or so I have been told, I don't own a turret press, just 2 single stages. Turn the bottom one upside down for the 4 die set. I bought their new lockable clear top rectangular storage boxes b/c I needed to get more organized and wanted to save some space. turn the tops 180 and they are more easily removeable (another simple design).
to the previous poster the round plastic containers will hold the 3 or 4 turret dies/plates or so I have been told, I don't own a turret press, just 2 single stages. Turn the bottom one upside down for the 4 die set. I bought their new lockable clear top rectangular storage boxes b/c I needed to get more organized and wanted to save some space. turn the tops 180 and they are more easily removeable (another simple design).
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Everyone does understand that you can buy the RGB kits from Lee or don't they? If not, the Lee RGB kits have no shell holder or scoop. They may not even have the data. If I loaded for a auto I would probably go this route but since I add the neck sizer it is cheaper to get the kit.
CollinLeon
member
Actually, I had never heard of the RGB kits until I read this thread... There's only a couple of more calibers that I might eventually get a rifle or handgun for, but I'll consider them the next time around... Even with the full set of dies, they're a good bargain compared to the dies by the other manufacturers...
ranger335v
Member
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"...(Lee dies) a good bargain compared to the dies by the other manufacturers... "
Lee uses a lot of automated machinery to make their dies, etc. It costs a lot to install such tooling but it's less expensive in the long run because it doesn't require a skilled machinest to run the automated stuff. And it's really easy to make good dies anyway.
Lee uses a lot of automated machinery to make their dies, etc. It costs a lot to install such tooling but it's less expensive in the long run because it doesn't require a skilled machinest to run the automated stuff. And it's really easy to make good dies anyway.
These sets are a good idea. Unfortunately when Lee introduced the sets, I already had most of the shell holders so it was not economical to buy the sets and duplicate many of the shell holders.
But, they also sold the empty boxes which I did buy. One for the press shell holders and one for the Auto-Prime shell holders.
They are a great way to store the shell holders.
I need to get another as I have filled up the press shell holder box and have a few extra shell holders floating around in die boxes.
i have mostly lee dies also. i have one set of RCBS and one Hornady. for most reloading, they work great. i honestly believe that if you wanted to load precision bench rest competition ammo, you would need better. at least for bullet seating. as far as the comment on their lock rings, i can relate. i bought a dozen good lock rings, but found out that sometimes i need to move the die for one reason or another. the "good" lock rings are a royal pain to reset. so i reinstalled the lee rings on most of them. maybe if i ever (not likely) get to a point where i am only making one load for each caliber, i would reinstall the "good" lock rings.
Constrictor
Member
just a normal set up lee 9mm carbide dies does not have a locking ring on the bullet seating depth screw. the crimp has lock rings but not the bullet seat. and it wanders its way out making the finished cartriges too long. duck tape around the die to try to keep this from happening. Just a typical cheap die.
JohnM
Member
There's supposed to be an O-ring seated into a machined retainer on the depth adjuster that locks it into position.
I've seated bullet after bullet and never had it move a 'thou".
If that o-ring isn't in place the adjuster would be loose enough to move and would cause all your problems.
I've seated bullet after bullet and never had it move a 'thou".
If that o-ring isn't in place the adjuster would be loose enough to move and would cause all your problems.
Constrictor
Member
you are correct, there is suppose to be an o ring, and alas there is an o ring, and alas the o ring is not adequate and doesnt lock anything. it merely slows down the movement.
Its just a typical cheap die, which i am not bashing because i am using it. just reporting the facts.
CollinLeon
member
Personally, I prefer to use two nuts if I'm wanting to lock something down. The Lee way of doing it with the O-ring works well enough for the type of shooting that I do since I'm not one of those guys who weights each and every powder charge (as might happen with a match rifle shooter). The current place where I'm hunting, I'm lucky to be able to see far enough through the brush to get a 20 yard shot anyway. Besides, my old eyes are MOA-compatible anymore anyway... 
Assuming they ever were... Too many years, can't remember ancient (i.e. older than last week) history...
Assuming they ever were... Too many years, can't remember ancient (i.e. older than last week) history...Trying to understand you. The O ring is in place but the seater stim still moves? You keep saying typical as in this is the same thing they all do which isn't the cases. What did Lee say about it?
I would like to see some pictures. I would actually like to see the die but that being unlikely. What caliber is it?
I would like to see some pictures. I would actually like to see the die but that being unlikely. What caliber is it?
JohnM
Member
He says he has a set of 9mm carbides.
The only way that adjusting stem can not be held in place by the O-ring insert is if it had been totally shredded.
I can't imagine how long screwing that thing in and out it would take to destroy the O-ring.
Lee would probably send a couple O-ring replacements gratis.
The only way that adjusting stem can not be held in place by the O-ring insert is if it had been totally shredded.
I can't imagine how long screwing that thing in and out it would take to destroy the O-ring.
Lee would probably send a couple O-ring replacements gratis.
Constrictor
Member
ill take a photo when i get home. the seater is not loose feeling, but still works its way out and cartridges get too long. The dies are performing exactly as designed, why would I ask lee anything? just like i would not buy a table saw from harbor frieght tools and call them and ask why they dont work like a powermatic saw.
JohnM
Member
The die isn't working exactly as designed.
The stop is moving.
People have used them for years without seeing that problem.
There's something wrong.
The stop is moving.
People have used them for years without seeing that problem.
There's something wrong.
jcwit
member
Your words, not ours. If in fact this is the case then is obvious the seating die is not working correctly, whether you wish to accept that or not.
Again, your words not ours. Please note the above quote.
Constrictor
Member
You are misquoting me. I never said the lee die was working corectly, i said it was working as designed. You may wish to accept this or not.
CollinLeon
member
One thing that I've noticed with Lee dies on my Dillon RL450B press is that I have to adjust them so far down that there is barely enough room for more than a thread or two of the die to be contacting the lock nut. The instructions say to adjust the die down to the point where it touches the raised shellplate. Once I get it that far, there's only a couple of threads sticking out above the top of the press for the lock nut to contact. Has anyone else noticed this problem?
JohnM
Member
Looking at this along side a few earlier ones turns all statements made by you into so much nonsense. A lot of us were seriously trying to figure out what the problem was you were having with a die set. What a total waste of time that was!
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