5.0 to 5.4 There are two hand- and two footholds for every move; the holds become progressively smaller as the number increases.
5.5 to 5.6 The two hand- and two footholds are there, obvious to the experienced, but not necessarily so to the beginner.
5.7 The move is missing one hand- or foothold.
5.8 The move is missing two holds of the four, or missing only one but is very strenuous.
5.9 The move has only one reasonable hold which may be for either a foot or a hand.
5.10 No hand- or footholds. The choices are to pretend a hold is there, pray a lot, or go home.
5.11 After thorough inspection you conclude this move is obviously impossible; however, occasionally someone actually accomplishes it. Since there is nothing for a handhold, grab it with both hands.
5.12 The surface is as smooth as glass and vertical. No one has really ever made this move, although a few claim they have.
5.13 This is identical to 5.12 except it is located under overhanging rock."